Advertisement
Published: August 7th 2007
Edit Blog Post
This blog by Jacqui:
The 30th birthday celebrations began with the arrival of our Jake and Alexis!!! Both Lucas and Jake were to launch into their 30's on March 25 and March 26 respectively, with their two party extraordinaires in tow in exotic asia. We had subjected Jake and Alexis to a night sleeping in the Bangkok airport so they could meet us in Chang Mai first thing the next morning. You may feel sorry for them and indeed they suffered greatly on their their grueling 20 hour plane ride via Japan from San Francisco in business class. So, upon their arrival in Chiang Mai, after a mere 30 minutes to reunite, we surprised them with tickets on a small 12-seater cessna back to Pai the same afternoon (the alternative, which we had used to and from Chang Mai, is a 3 hour mini-van ride on a winding road with 274 bends. To preserve the friendship and Jake's stomach we opted for the airborne luxury!).
After the flight, we mounted our Harleys (read: small mopeds) in Pai-town and made our way back to Pai Chan Cottages and our friends Ae and Hanom Tee - our home away from home.
Here are the highlights of our Pai-Land adventure:
* Local waterfall hike. We decided to hike to a local waterfall 7 kms away and had heard from numerous local sources that the hike takes anywhere from 1 to 3 hours - quite a big differential one may say. We were directed to the waterfall via a river splattered with slippery-moss-covered boulders and framed by trees with singing (and excreting) cicada's. The hike up the river was a scary 2.5 hour "Indiana Jones meets Snakes in a River" experience, we even missed the actual path and went spelunking up the river through caves and over rocks, abandoning any effort to keep our feet and boots dry. And just when we thought we were never going to make it we entered the quiet bamboo forest, and there in front of us, the magnificent waterfall (almost dried up due to the dry season). After lunch and some obligatory photos we donned our protective helmets (we stupidly decided to carry them with us and not leave them with our mopeds) for the hike back.
* The next day was our wonderful elephant experience. Joy's Elephant Camp was recommended to us by
Wild Hogs
no, these are not wimpy mopeds, your eyes are deceiving you John (Sara's father) from Paddy Fields (Bungalows run by Sara from the UK) and we welcomed the local hospitality of Chitti - the owner and carer of the camp. Chitti is a beautiful Thai woman with a big heart, four huge motorcycles, an amazing garden, and a I-don't-take-shit-from-anyone demeanor about her. Unfortunately, Chitti informed us that most of the other elephant camps in Pai do not treat their elephants with the amount of respect they deserve and use disciplinary measures that involve sharp objects. Furthermore, Chitti saddened us with tales of her baby elephant who accidentally died of a drug overdose while being treated for an infection. Still 3 years later it brings tears to her eyes. It brought tears to ours.
Chitti had borrowed another elephant in addition to hers (Pan Ved) for the four of us to ride and play with in the river. Our lovely Alexis, devout animal lover and elephant whisperer found the tales of elephant cruelty too much and was not able to join us for the ride on the beasts down to the river. I was lucky enough to experience the ride and despite the elephants needle-like hairs piercing my thighs with every
waddle, it was amazing to sit tall on this extraordinary animal. Jake went alone on his beloved elephant and it was at the river where we truly saw the elephants shine. They also look pretty happy when they are eating their 50 tons of banana trees per day. The elephants love playing in the river with their riders and it was here that we got to hang on for dear life to their ears while they strategically and subtly try to throw you off, or, keep you under the water long enough so you have to let go. We were told it gives them great pleasure to play this game in the water and I do believe Jake's elephant was smiling when Jake had proven he was not to be thrown off despite the elephant's best efforts. Alexis was able to conquer her moral objections to the poor treatment of the other elephants, with Chitti's encouragement, and ended up playing in the river with the well cared for Pan Ved and then riding back to the camp with Lucas. We have tons of great elephant videos we will publish in a special edition blog in the future!
We so
enjoyed Joy's elephant camp and our time with Chitti that when she asked if we wanted to come back that evening for a home-cooked thai meal and time in the natural hot springs we jumped at the chance. Chitti's adopted Burmese employee/son cooked us whole fried fish, curry, soup and spicy salsa with sticky rice. A true thai experience with no utensils - we used our hands and manged quite successfully to eat the entire display of food. Washed down easily with some Chang beer and fresh fruit dessert.
* Lucas turns 30! Sunday March 25th marked the celebration of Lucas' birthday and the morning was enjoyed at Pai Chan overlooking the rice paddies, with b'fast of fried beef jerky (his new favourite thai specialty), donuts and coffee. My husband appears very relaxed with no apprehension about this milestone in his life - and why would he - he has taken an early retirement which includes this extended honeymoon and a further two years at school while I am his sugar-mama. But in all seriousness, life is good, and he sees no real necessity for a mid-life crisis. A quick flight back to Chang Mai on the cessna, with
a medical beer upon arrival for woosy Jake (who cannot seem to fly or drive anywhere!) and then the celebrations continued with an all afternoon pub crawl around Chang Mai and the famed night markets. The night ended with Jake and Lucas sharing a 3 liter Chang Tower (see photo) and Jake and Alexis trying to figure out who they really loved.
Pai Recommendations:
The local lunch restaraunt across from the district office for famous spicy pounded green papaya/mango salads and bbq chicken with sticky rice
Ca-Faye: Faye's cafe at Paddy Fields - great food, great people, great environment
Pai Chan Cottages for accommodation and breakfasts and wonderful hosts - Ae and her family! This is the epitome of Thai hospitality.
Joy's Elephant camp: Chitty, the owner is a proud and respectful owner of her elephant and has delicious food by the hot springs in the evenings.
Chang Mai accommodation - Pagoda Inn: Excellent rooms, great price, awesome beer garden and really friendly owner.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.145s; Tpl: 0.016s; cc: 22; qc: 99; dbt: 0.0872s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.3mb