Chiang Rai to Mae Salong

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Hello Again.

Spent the last couple of days in Chiang Rai, visiting the night market, a couple of temples and the Hilltribe Museum, where I watched a film about how tourism is deteriorating hill tribe culture. This was intercut with footage of a British guy who, along with his Burmese wife, were trying to set up an eco tourist lodge in Burma. I think it's what they call ironic, tho' possibly unintentionally - he was a very nice, politically correct type, who shook hands with village chieftans, and spoke solemnly about mutual benefits, and how he was sure he'd learn more from the hill tribe people than they would from him.

A group affilliated with the museum runs treks to hill tribe village, and while i was there, I had a quick squint through their book, to see what they did. On almost every page was a sort of disclaimer, along the lines of Please note- Hill tribe villagers live in concrete dwellings and only wear their costumes for festivals etc. Reading between the lines, I wo ndered if they'd had complaints from people who'd gone on the treks expecting picturesque rustic poverty, only to find a group of people, dressed in shell suits, sat around watching MTV Asia on a 42 inch colour tv.

Left Chiang Rai this morning, in a bus bound for Ban Basang. At the truk stop in Ban Basang was an Oz guy, who'd recently moved to thailand, his thai girlfriend, and an older Phillipine guy, who was now living in new york. There was some argy bargy about the price of a truk up to Mae Salong- normally they carry 8 people, and with only us 4, the driver would be running at a loss, so wanted us either to wait for more passengers (which could have taken ages) or make up his shortfall. In the end, we negotiated a price, and off we went.

It's about an hour up hill from Ban Basang to Mae Salong, driving through these little villages that are little more than half a dozen huts either side of the road with a few chickens chucked in for good measure.

I'm now checked into the Shin Shane guest house, in town. There are a couple of tribal villages within walking distance, so struck out for one after I'd arrived- there's a strong chinese presence in this part of thailand, and there were all these little old chinese women, in traditional dress wandering around. I eventually made my way to the end of the village where, rather inconruously, is a christian church and the Mae Salong Drug Rehabilittion centre. Shouldn't have been too surprised to see the latter, as opium was once a staple crop round these 'ere parts. They've recently swapped this for tea and coffee plantations, and there are little tea and coffee factory shops all over town.

Anyway. That's yer lot fer now - I'm off to get my laundry out of the washing machine.

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Comments

[wendy street]

All mod cons !
Washing out of a washing machine ? What's wrong with slapping it on a stone by the side of the river ? You know - a little 'picturesque rustic poverty '. You could have been mistaken for a hill tribe woman or are you still wearing your old travelling mate the pink shell suit ? Have fun - take care !