Off the beaten track in Bangkok

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Sukumvit hasn't changed much in the past few years but there do seem to be a few more bars, restaurants and convenience stores than we remember. We have certainly enjoyed being back in Asia from a culinary perspective and the relaxed feel to the place has suited us down to the ground.

We saw in the New Year with our friends Nat and Ian, and their young daughter, Orla. It had been over 5 years since we had last seen Nat when we were working in Tunisia. Orla wasn't even a glint in her eyes back then! Ian is working in Bangkok for a while and by sheer coincidence they were staying just 4 streets away from our hotel. It was a subdued celebration with fireworks banned presumably out of respect for the mourning period which is still going on. That suited us all fine as nobody wanted a really late night.

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!

The next morning we did what most backpackers do - arrange our onward transport. I know that some of you reading this have never done a backpacking holiday, but this becomes part of your routine after a while, even on New Year's Day. We took the Sky Train out to Chatuchak Park then had a 20 minute walk to the bus station. There must be an easier route than the one we took but life's an adventure, isn't it! After several misdirections (people were trying to be helpful!) we eventually found the right place and bought the tickets we wanted.

We walked back through Queen Sikrit Park which was lovely. The air was hot and tropically humid but we didn't mind, and neither did the wildlife. There were many luscious flowers on display, birds were everywhere (especially the local vermin - minah birds) but the highlight was the enormous lizard swimming in the waters which climbed out right beside us. On the edge of the park we found a family showing off their pet prairie dogs. They may look cute but this just has to be wrong.

From the park we crossed to the fish market. The fish there are not for food, unlike the crispy fried crickets and bugs outside. One day we will be brave enough to try! Inside it was better than any aquarium, although probably not from the perspective of the fish. There was everything for sale from koi carp to rays, and all sorts of smaller fish both in tanks and bags. Nearby were various other animals looking for new homes - chickens, turtle doves, cats, dogs and even hedgehogs.

Every Saturday and Sunday there is a huge market at Chatuchak which attracts locals and tourists alike. It was full of hustle and bustle but nowhere near as edgy as the guidebooks suggest. Yes, you have to be careful with your belongings but you do wherever you go. It was fascinating browsing but this early in the trip we are not really buying.

That evening we had a visitor at the hotel. Tong had been one of Russ's students in Glasgow two years ago. It was an emotional reunion and shows how close a bond can be forged on a short intensive course. Sadly it was a short visit but Tong left us with some Thai tea to experiment with when we get back to Spain.

The plan for our final day in the city was to venture out and see an unusual sight. The aircraft cemetery is gaining popularity with visitors to the city thanks to being featured in several blogs and newspapers. We should mention one blog in particular, Nomadasaurus, without which we would probably have taken a taxi. They suggested going by boat so we headed up to Asoke water station, just one stop up on the Metro from Sukumvit. A word of warning - there are no toilets on the boats or at the ramshackle stations, but come out of the Metro and look for Kross gym who were very helpful! It cost 16 THB (40p) for the half hour journey by boat in the opposite direction to all of the other tourists we saw. When the boat gets to Bangkapi Mall you have two more stops until the end of the line at Wat Sribunruang. Along the way you get a fascinating glimpse into parts of Bangkok you wouldn't otherwise see.

Make sure you explore the Wat either before or after seeing the planes. There are shrines and buddhas galore, but be respectful as it is a temple and some people are there to pray. We even saw a revered albino water buffalo.

From the wat, go to the main road and turn right, then walk alongside the road crossing the small river. You can't miss the abandoned carcasses of old aircraft dumped in a field. The gate is locked but make your presence obvious and some children will come out with their parents watching from the house. We say house, but it's really part of the body of an old aircraft. We were "charged" 200 THB (£4.50) each to go in. There have been reports of hostility and crazy prices but we were left to our own devices with no hassle at all. No doubt this family were very impoverished in the past, but they are now making a pretty good living by rural Thai standards.We are not sure about the ethics of this, but it's such an unusual thing to see that you just have to pay!

The Aircraft Cemetery is an unofficial tourist sight. You need to wear good shoes to explore as health and safety has not been a factor on these planes for many years. You need to be careful as the steady flow of visitors combined with no upkeep whatsoever means decay is continuous. There are no steps, just a tyre here or there to help you up, and many sharp, rusty edges. No doubt your travel insurance company would deny any claim if you had an unfortunate incident here. Don't let that stop you though - just be careful while you relive a childhood dream of unfettered exploration. There was no way up into the body of the 747 Jumbo Jet but the other wrecks were (fairly) easy to get on board. There are fantastic photo opportunities everywhere and few, if any other visitors to get in your way. Walking through the undergrowth comes at a cost too. Tiny, spiky seeds tick to your shoes and your socks. Take time to pick them all off before you start your journey back or an unpleasant surprise may be waiting for you later in the day!!

Back at the Wat, we crossed to the other side of the river. A riverside path goes all the way back to the city, but we just walked the 10 minutes or so to Bangkapi Mall. The food court is very much geared towards Thais with prices to match at about 30% cheaper than mall food courts in the city centre. It was also nice to cool down in the air conditioning before catching a crowded boat back to Asoke.

And that was really it for Bangkok. We had managed to do everything we had planned to do and it was time to move on. First time visitors to the city will have a very different agenda, but once you have done the popular sites, and the shopping centres of course, you will soon find out there is lots more to see in the city.

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Photos

London themed floor in Terminal 21
This was the corridor leading to the toilets. Not really that English though with no graffiti, everything in working order and smelling fine.

Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

What?
Crazy! That is so wrong.