Bangkok

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GETTING ABOUT THE CITY

To get from the airport to the National Stadium / Siam Square area, I took a new express train and then an elevated train, both of which were efficient, fast, and clean. This is by far the best choice, though it has a limited range.

This isn't a walking city. On my first evening near Siam Square, I tried to go for a walk, only to find it takes at least 10 minutes to walk 100 meters, particularly in the market areas. It's nearly impossible to cross streets, but there are pedestrian bridges everywhere. The next day, I walked to the river, which was about 5 km. I had to sprint across several roads and never felt completely safe.

Taxis are pretty cheap, especially compared to the rest of the country - a 30-minute, 5 km ride costs only about 80 baht. Still, traffic is horrendous, so don't expect to get anywhere quickly.

NATIONAL PALACE

Make sure that you take long pants and shirts with sleeves (not tank tops, etc.) unless you want to wear the clothes provided there. I took some photos of the outside but didn't pay to go in. Others have told me this was a wise choice.

MARKETS

Any of the food markets are wonderful - I could eat every meal at these. The amulet market near the university is one of my favorites - there are lots of monks about.

WAT PO

Lonely Planet says this is their favorite Wat in Bangkok, so I let the bible direct me and wasn't disappointed. The temple complex is more extensive than I expected, and though I didn't opt for the English tour, I enjoyed walking through and reading the signs. There is an enormous reclining Buddha (much more my posture than 'Indian'-style, which my leg can't do) in one building, accompanied by a hundred or so pots that you can put small change into.

LUB D BANGKOK - SIAM SQUARE

If you're not interested in meeting anyone and just want a clean, relatively comfortable place to sleep, this is a good hostel. It is adjacent to high-tech malls and is far from the tourist ghettos. Still, there's something about most HI hostels that makes them feel institutional (exception: New Zealand). There's something sterile about the atmosphere and the result is that everyone staying there just stares at the walls.

WILD ORCHID

When I returned to Bangkok I stayed right in the middle of Khao San Rd. The area isn't the worst to look at, and there's plenty of good food and gifts, but there are certainly more tourists here than locals. The restaurant at the Wild Orchid is quite nice, but it's difficult to get anyone's attention, and there isn't a common area to meet other travelers. Don't stay here if you're solo.

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Photos

Grand Palace from Outside Walls
There are quite a lot of touts and scammers around these walls, despite the loudspeak message on repeat telling you not to trust them.

Grand Palace
This was taken from the free area; it\'s worth a look.

Me in Wat Pho
Despite the crowds in the central area of this wat, the complex is extensive, and it's possible to find quiet if you walk around a bit.