Travel thoughts on India

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Well, if I ever figure out this picture download stuff, consider it a miracle. Of course, picture three isn't my yoga teacher. This is that beautifully dressed doorman I tried to download on my Bangalore blog. Do not ask me how this happens!! Well, I tried again....and, now you see that little cutie....picture #4.

Animals: I have never been anyplace where animals wander so freely. On the roads on streets in cities and towns I have seen cows, pigs, oxen, camels, dogs, goats, donkeys, horses (remember those bridegrooms on the white horses riding through the streets with their enterages) sheep, water buffalo (on the steps right in Varanassi, they must be a different breed than the African buffalo which is the meanest beast on the continent (other than man, that is)) and elephants. None of these are occasional sightings...I saw all of these many times. India is a land of live-and-let-live, when it comes to who shares the space. There were even cows in downtown Mumbai (now that I am not there, it is once more Mumbai).

Traffic:

It's a mystery how few accidents I saw in India. Yesterday, it was wet and I saw 3 serious looking collisions between motorcycles, small transport trucks, and bigger vehicles...all in one hour. Yet, in a nations that takes a 2 lane highway and makes it continuously into at least a 3 lane road...and if there is an actual divided highway with 2 lanes each way, there can easily be 4 vehicles in two lanes...there seems to be a huge army of guardian angels on accident control, because it all seems to work. There are definite ways of correct behavior. Drivers never seem to 'play chicken'...ie, let's see who gives first. Plus, I think I told you this already, but on the back of almost every public vehicle or truck there is a sign that tells the person behind to honk if he is going to pass. So, they all let each other by...and if there is one coming from the other direction at the same time, he slows down, gets over and...it works. Even though I say this, it is still nerve wracking sometimes. And, to tell the truth, my least favorite vehicle on the highway is a private car...the motorcycles, which I am not on anywat, do have lots of maneuverablity, and eveything else is bigger. I feel a lot safer in a big old bus. My friend, Jeff, who I met in Bundi, hired drivers a couple of times for long distances (he had time limitations and didn't mind spending the money), but even he said it was harrowing at times. And, I have talked to others who hired private cars who felt the same. They which they had been driving. In conclusion, things do usually work out a lot better than it looks like they possibly could, but Indian roads are not for sissies. I know how those who rented cars felt about wishing they were driving (when it looked like their drivers were continuously taking reckless risks). But, I cannot even imagine anything much worse than me personally being a driver on an Indian road.




Indians versus other Asians

One thing I truly appreciate about Indians is that they are easier to have real conversations with. They are not afraid of differing opinions and don't put such a value on 'harmonious atmospheres' as the Chinese and Japanese do. Yet, they aren't combative in conversation, just interesting...and interested. Now, on the other side, in China and Japan you get nowhere by showing temper or anger, whereas in India, you do. I didn't gain this knowledge from experience, but I watched a couple of times where a restaurant or hotel guest was angry and, boy, problems were solved immediately! On the other hand, during my travels in India I hardly ever heard people arguing with each other. Now, that I am back among the Chinese, just the opposite is sometimes true. I had forgotten how they can yell and scream at each other in public areas. Even though it is terribly bad form, it still happens. In India it seemsl like it's a power postion thing...if you have power you can yell. In China it is more the street people who do the yelling, and it would be totally bad form...and counterproductive for me to show anger at a restaurant or hotel worker (for example).

Saris:

Do you remember the 60s, the era of what I always called 'the Jackie Kennedy look?' Well, I think that was the most spectacular time in my lifetime for fashion. Nowadays, wearing my keds instead of my New Balance athletic shoes feels like I am dressing up. Given the present state of Western daily fashion, can you imagine what it would feel like to get up every single day of your life and dress like you were going to a fancy ball? That's what all the women in India do each morning. It is the one thing I never stopped being in awe of, no matter where I was, (on the street, in a local bus, in shops/restuarants/etc., the beautiful saris they wear. And,the amazing thing is that, in all the time I was there, I only once saw a sari that I had seen on another person. Of course, this can't be true, but, I swear, every one looked like an original to me (maybe everyone wraps theirs a little differently) and 90% are magnificient...while the other 10% are very nice. Even the beggers, while they weren't always totally clean, had nice looking saris on.

The one thing that puzzled me, though, is that when I have seen Indian women in the states wearing saris, the thought tickles at the edge of my mind that they don't look that nice and that they somehow seem out of place. I tried to figure this out while I was in India admiring their beautiful garments, with no clue as to why I had felt that way. Then, I got to Hong Kong. While there I saw some Indian women (just a few visitors, probably) in saris.....and, on the streets of Hong Kong, where everyone was wearing Western clothes, they didn't seem nearly as beautiful as when they were at home in India where everyone was wearing saris (or almost everyone...there are some young moderns in the cities who wear Western clothes). I'm still confused as to why this is so. because, in India, the women are a feast for the eyes.

Health:

I haven't had one bit of problem since being in China. More about this totally awesome country later. However, for four of the five months in India, there were problems. Plus, because one has to be so cautious about where to eat, most meals are at places that the LP has vetted. These are probably the safest, but I would say, without question, I have had much better Indian food in the US...and particularly in Nairobi. Of course, there is a good reason for this lack of 'deliciousness'. The places that cater to LP travelers are going for the blandest Indian food possible so as to not 'annoy' anyone. The result is that, for me, most of the meals were very mediocre. When I stayed at the beach place in Kerala, Mr. Sasi owned a fish restaurant and brought me meals every night. Probably the best eating on my trip. While, I would have liked to have had just a little less fish (3 weeks, every night), at least it was really good and I was never sick. He had about 3 beach places he rented out and provided meals-on-wheels for, so his kitchen was clean. I think if I had gone to really first class hotels I might have had a better experience. But, I did go to what I would call 3 star places and was not impressed. Am looking forward to being at the Kodai Kanal School, where I get all my meals. It could be a great (or icky) experience. But, at least the staff will know where the good restaurants in town are. Other than Delhi-Belly problems, I had one little cold, one spell when I couldn't sleep (weird, went on for almost 10 days - I cannot tell you how much more I value my sleep after that little episode), I have been extremely healthy. And, emotiionally, I feel great. Took a couple of months to get really 'in the groove', but now it just seems like my life.


This is going to be short. I had a slip of paper with a list of all the things that I wanted to write in this final Indian blog, but cannot find it anywhere. I'll be starting a new blog...that is if I can remember how to get to it...and then there is the little problem of getting all your names on it. And, none of this may happen until I get back to Bangkok. This China trip feels like the title of that old movie 'If it's Tuesday, it Must Be Belgium". Fast and no time for blogs. Am trying to keep a journal so I won't forget too much and be able to catch you up.

I'll be back in Bangkok on June 4. Left on the 20th. Can't believe I have been only here a month. Briefly, here is where I have been: Macao, Hong Kong, Guilin, Yangshuo, Lijiang, the Little Three Gorges and the other Gorges, Shanghai, Wuzhen, and Hangzhou (I leave here tomorrow for Pungli and Suzhou, then leave the Shanghai area and head somewhat north....then east to Xian, then north again, ending in Beijing. If any of you have places you have loved in this area of China, do share them for me. I still have some flexibility. Afterall, I write my own itinerary.

Hope you are all out enjoying your gardening, hiking, whatever it is you love to do in the spring. I miss my garden. This is it's third year and it should really be showing some results of the efforts of the past few years. Oh, well, life is a trade-off and I am still happy with my choices. Happy Spring to you all. Charlene

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Photos

Indian Jewelry Store
This one is for my friend, Jeff, in SFO. I was walking by this store and was so overwhelmed with all the lovely jewlery that I walked in and asked if I could take this picture. Indians love jewlery. According to the diamond guys I met in Bombay, more diamonds are sold in India than any other country.

Kerala Fashion
All over Kerala the men wore these skirts. They are longhis - sarongs- that, when they want to move, they gather up like this and make them short. These were men I had met in my very shi-shi Kerala neighborhood. In other words, all the guys wear them.

My Yoga Instructor in Kerala
Is he a cutie, or what. And, could this guy dance - moon walk, Bollywood dances, you name. Plus, he had this totall mischevious gleam in his eye. Awe to be 40 years younger!!

Yoga Guy Kerala
I'm trying again. Hope this comes through