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Published: June 10th 2007
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Dear friends and blogbrowsers,
We arrived in Bangkok feeling rather grimey after our overnight train trip from Chiang Mai. We had a breakfast of iced coffee/chocolate and pastries at the train station. It had been weeks since I'd had a good coffee! We had some time to kill (5 hours!) before we could check into our hotel. There was a tourist information centre at the railway station that was quite helpful and suggested we go to see the Golden Buddha as it was walking distance away. We checked our bags into the locker room and went for a wander. For those of you who've not been, the Golden Buddha is 505 Tonnes of solid gold!! It had been covered with an outer layer so that invaders (Burmese) did not know that it was gold. The Thai forgot as well, and did not discover it until recently when they were moving it with a crane and dropped it, breaking the outer covering!!!
From there we got a bit confused about what to do. Picture the classic image of family standing on street corner with map unfolded, gesticulating in all directions. A friendly "off duty policeman" suggested we go to a
Chatuchak Weekend Market
Crowds heading from sky train particular shop that was having a sale. MISTAKE. I know it sounds corny because you are warned not to take any notice, but when you're tired and lost for what to do, and some very helpful, friendly local makes a suggestion...
So off we went to the LocalThai Produce Centre. Boring.
After checking in, we decided to follow the advice of the TV show "Getaway" instead and visit the Chatuchak Weekend Market. We hopped on the sky train for a pleasant trip, but found we'd joined hoards of others on the same voyage. The market was very crowded, particularly so because it started pooring whilst we were there. Stallholders hastily pegged up extra tarps/plastic, etc. The girls were shocked by the site of a legless beggar dragging himself prostrate along the ground in the mud under people's feet. Having decided that market was a bad idea, we decided to try legendary MBK. And frankly that was a mistake too. It was just another set of crowded market stalls selling the same souvenirs and cheap T-shirts. After Phuket and Chiang Mai Night Market we'd seen it all quite enough thanks very much. At BMK we bumped into an Aussie
Chatuchak market
Tarps to keep out rain that Allan had met in the Gym at our hotel in Phuket. He was wheeling a new super-sized suitcase that he'd just purchased to carry home all his 'bargains' !!
The next day we hired a mini-van to take us to the old city of Ayutthaya. This worked out at less than half he cost of taking a tour for the five of us. That was good because we could also take our time. Unfortunately our driver did not speak much English, so he did not explain anything for us, and didn't even tell us where we were going until I asked, and all he did was point to a page in a tourist bookolet!! Ayutthaya was fascinating, and well worth the trip, although the 'ancient' city is actually not that old (about 1200).
That night we were treated to the complimentary dinner and show provided by the hotel (Indra Regent). Their drink prices made up for some of the cost!
The following day we set off to visit the Grand Palace. We were delayed by our taxi driver who insisted we visit a particular Thai product shop that would give him a petrol voucher if we
Chatuchak market
Yellow shirt stall. Many people wear these shirts to honor the king, especially on Monday, because Monday IS yellow (every day has a color). did, and two petrol vouchers if we bought something. MISTAKE. We're slow learners. We eventually arrived at the Grand Palace at lunchtime and were offered a tour by a guide. He had a badge, so he was legitimate! He was quite a character, and explained many aspects of Buddhism and history that we'd had questions about from our trip to Ayutthaya. We were left with a quite profound respect for the Thai people and their beliefs.
We had planned to visit another temple that afternoon, but it was getting a bit late. We were advised by a friendly "navy officer" that we should abandon our plans and go to xxxx craft outlet...... NOT THIS TIME!! WE'RE TOO SMART FOR THAT ONE. He was incredibly insistent, and I almost lost it when he started to circle things on my book in pen. I realy don't understand why "I don't want to go shopping" is not enough to convince them!
The next day we explored the canals. We decided to hire our own longtail boat rather than pay for individual tickets. (We negotiated a price of 1000 baht for a 90 minute trip. Again, it was much cheaper for the 5
of us.) The boat captain/driver was quite considerate and pointed out a number of highlights for us. We stopped at the Royal Barge Museum as part of our 90 minute trip. After that we took a local ferry upstream. The ferry stations were fascinating. They sold all manner of local produce. We were particularly taken by the live eels and frogs. Hmm, tasty.
We caught a tuk tuk to the Dusit Zoo. Lonely Planet described it perfectly; nice place on a hot day, dated enclosures. It was also very cheap, and Zoe loved the change of pace.
That night we caught up with an old school friend, Gary Chatfield, for dinner. The catching up part was quite complicated, and involved over two hours' travel for him!
For our last day I wanted to see the floating markets - as reviewed by TV's "Getaway". I should have saved my money (and time). The drive and the ride on the long-tailed boat were quite good, but the markets were more touristy and pushy and weird than any we'd had to endure. Sellers stood in front of you to block your way in order to catch your attention. Some almost had
me dressed in wrap-around pants before I could say "No, thanks" for the third time. The droning/wailing "For you madaaaam. Look my shop madaaaaam. A shirt, pants, this one, can try on...." was starting to get to me. The tour guide was of almost no value, and fell asleep on the way home. In retrospect, the best trips in Thailand were ones organised through Tour East (better run, more interesting, safer, but more expensive), or when we've done things on our own. I also did not find the "Getaway" show recommendations accurate at all!
We returned for lunch at our favourite internet cafe (Delich, part of All-In-One Hotel, just a couple of blocks from Indra Regent) where we could get a nice meal with drink for under $4AUS a head.
As our finale we wanted to catch the sky train to visit the Siam Center / Siam Square. On the way we passed street market stalls that were transforming from the day stalls to an outdoor restaurant with many food stalls, tables and chairs. There is such a contrast between these and the new glam international shopping complexes that are springing up, particularly those near the sky train
The Summer Palace
Our transport (Amy was too hot and bothered to walk!) stations. Siam Center was one of those; we could have been in any city, with prices to match.
We were picked up at 9:45 for our trip to the airport for the midnight flight to England.
Frankly, we were glad to be leaving the bustle, pollution, and inconsistencies of this city behind
Stay tuned!
Esther.
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Bangkok!! Nightmare!!
Hi guys, sorry to hear about all your scams in BKK. I know how you feel, the first time in BKK for me was a nightmare. Luckily I never fell for any scams but I related to everything you said!! I so didnt want to do the Floating Markets, but did it with Tong (private guide) and was glad I went. We werent hassled, had our own non-motorised small boat and saw areas that werent at all touristy! We also used a guide for the temples/palaces and werent hassled along the way! Next time huh!!!! Safe travels! xx