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Published: February 8th 2006
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WILDLIFE SANCTUARIES AND ECOTOURISM The next day, we left Colombo and drove north along the coast. We stopped at Negumbo, a polluted fishing village. We walked along the bridge, and looked down into the rather foul water below. It was afternoon when we toured the fish market, so most of the fish had been sold, and most of the 2,000 people who were there in the early morning were gone. Some venders were still hopeful about selling their catch, as they waved the numerous buzzing flies away, and poured warm seawater over the fish to keep it wet and shining. Many other venders were spreading the unsold stock out on the ground to dry. This goes on day after day, and I have to say that the smell was incredible. Not good. Very bad. Fresh fish isn't always so good-smelling, and not all of this stuff was fresh.
We arrived at the Coconut Research Institute, where we were to spend the night. We were greeted with a cut-open King Coconut, and we drank the water from the inside. It had only a faint taste, just enough to make you aware it wasn't just water. These are the bright yellow
coconuts which we've been seeing for sale everywhere. A convenient drink for the thirsty traveler. We were told that King Coconuts are only grown for this liquid, not for the meat.
Soon we were back on the bus, so that we could reach Anawilundawa Sanctuary in time for a nature walk. This turned out to be a beautiful temporary freshwater marsh that was just filled with all kinds of wetlands birds, so it was another special treat for me. We had a leisurely walk on a shaded path along the water.
That night we enjoyed a fine rice and curry dinner at the Coconut Research Institute, and then strolled in the garden. There were dozens of glittering fireflies, flitting around in the dark like so many flying stars. Overhead, the night sky was also filled with stars. It was quite a sight. That night, or in some cases the next day, we packed for the final time. Soon, all of our luggage was safely stowed on the bus. We have all been shopping, and the volume of gear stacked in the back of the bus stands as mute testimony to our prowess. We are good!
Our last
day was spent at Ranweli, an award-winning ecotourism lodge on the coast, in a mangrove swamp area. Formerly on a peninsula, after the tsunami, it is now on an island, and we had to board a small ferry to get there. We were hosted by the owner and operator, Mr. Chandra de Silva. He gave us a lecture on the advantages of ecotourism (he's preaching to the choir with me), especially as compared to standard "beach tourism". After our last series of lectures, there was a brief closing ceremony for our trip. Each of us was awarded a "Certificate of Participation" signed by Prof. Jon Pearce, Prof. S.A. Kulasooriya, and Prof. M.A.K.L. Dissanayake, the Director of PGIS. We all politely applauded each other as we contemplated this additional souvenir.
Ranweli is a nice place- one I'd like to stay at. Lots of nature, a stretch of beach, a swimming pool, very good food, and nice little bungalows. We were shown the inside of a vacant one; it was luxurious. We were also taken along a short nature trail through the mangroves, and photographed as we bumped our heads on the branches and wobbled across make-shift bridges. Our group may
end up on part of a slide show or a brochure sometime. Look for us! We're the ones having all that fun! Really! The best part for me (birds again? yes) was the boat ride through the mangroves. There was a naturalist from Ranweli aboard; he knew all of the birds by sight, and call, and where they usually hung out. Ranweli also had a neat gimmick; the naturalist had a local checklist, and he gave everyone a signed copy of the birds our group had spotted. Those in the group who had seen as many birds as they wanted lately took the opportunity to visit the beach, and- I heard- to have a facial. Ranweli does appeal to everyone!
As the sun set, we looked for the green flash, but did not see it. No problem. Just a reason to come back and try again. It was, of course, quite bittersweet to realize that this was our final sunset in Sri Lanka, and that soon we would be heading back to San Jose, and to our other homes. Soon we must part from our newfound friends and traveling companions. Everything must end sometime.
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