They should call me Indy, not Dr. Jones...

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4/25
The day was going to be spent traveling to Ratnapura, the gem mining capital of Sri Lanka. One of the main reasons for coming here was to buy a gem for a potential engagement ring. Since there was no woman in my life anymore, one would assume to nix the idea. I didn't want to. I know I would someday get married to the right woman for me, so it only seemed natural to purchase a gem anyway. At the very least, it would make a great story. Plus, I had arranged with Sarath (the owner of the guest house we were staying at in Kandy) to see his gem mine. We were going to be allowed to descend into the mine and see the mining process in action. I had watched the host of a travel show do this exact same thing. Tourists were not normally allowed to do so, but since we knew an owner, it was completely at his discretion. Because he seemed like a genuinely nice and honest man, he, without hesitation, agreed to my request. It probably also helped to know that I was going to be a potential customer. We began our long journey with a ride to the bus stop from Sarath. It was a nice gesture and one we wholeheartedly appreciated because he had a large Toyota SUV and we had a decent amount of gear. He didn't even charge us for the lift. We said our goodbyes and told him we would see him the next morning in Ratnapura. The next 5 hours were spent on hot, steamy bus rides to the inner part of south central Sri Lanka. Though the trip was harsh and we were drenched in sweat, I smiled the entire way. I was going to experience yet another adventure I had planned. I realize now how lucky I am to be able to set a goal and accomplish it. I don't think I give myself enough credit for what I have done in my life. I know I am blessed and I should be more aware of that fact. Once we take it for granted, we are not on the right path. Once we stop trying, achieving, overcoming, and running through, I don't think we are living at all. We got off the bus in Ratnapura and it was steaming. The humidity was intense and we were soaked in warm sweat. Sarath had drawn u s a rudimentary map of directions the the guest house he had arranged for us the previous day. Of course, I talked the owner down a few dollars for our visit there. Air conditioning was going to be a necessity. Of course, the map was incorrectly drawn. We realized this after we finally arrived at the hotel. To top it off, a steep incline path greeted us prior to the hotel itself. We were met by a friend of Sarath's, Chinthaka, at the hotel. He was to be our guide while we were in town. We decided to settle in our room, grab a shower, and have dinner. The plans to see the mine that afternoon were foiled by the rain and the lateness of our arrival. Instead, we walked around Ratnapura after dinner. It had a real busy vibe to it, much like many parts of the country, save the coasts. After all, it was a gem mining and trading town. People from all over the world came here to purchases precious stones. I was in a little bit of a lull after reading a few messages from back home. Emotionally and spiritually, I felt drained. I needed to do something, but I didn't know what. So I decided to chop my hair off. I wanted to shave it all off. Maybe seeing the Buddhist monks in their wonderfully colored orange robes and shaved heads was the seed that planted it. I was far from a monk and I still had much to learn about myself and how to live righteously. But, it seemed like the right idea at the time. So I did it. We found a barber shop and I told him what I wanted. For 100 rupees, about 80 cents, he shaved and trimmed my head. I felt some sort of release, as if Atlas had the earth lifted off his shoulders. The moment was fleeting but exactly what I needed to happen at that point in time. Prior to the cut, it was the first time on the entire time I doubted myself and felt negative emotion. The feeling disappeared, albeit briefly. But it was replaced by a less intense negativity, more like a serene, bubbling cauldron. I didn't want to feel badly. No one does. But if you left yourself get used to it, it becomes normal. Luckily, I am not normal at all. We decided to finally try some Sri Lankan baked goods that we had been smelling in almost every city. We purchased a small portion of chocolate cake and headed back to our hotel. It was about 8 pm when we settled in. David passed out by 8. I stayed up until midnight catching up on the blog and uploading pictures. It was the first night that we didn't have anything to drink since we had arrived and began traveling together. We needed that. Although I didn't fall asleep until after midnight, I had the best sleep in months. I woke up only a fee times and was able to get about 7 hours. I was still tired, but excited at the fact that I was able to sleep fairly uninterrupted. We met Chinthaka at about 830 am, as we had prearranged the evening before. We shared some coffee with him and then were off. We asked about waterfalls in Sri Lanka and he offered to take us to one. That was our first stop. It was fairly mores dive, but we couldn't get too close, so the power of the falls was lost on us. Chinthaka told us that a small child recently died there, getting too close, slipping on a rock, and falling down the rushing waters. Afterwards, we headed to the gem mine. He had warned us earlier that we probably would not be able to actually mine because of the previous rains. He ok us to a new plot of land where they were digging a new mine. We drove into a large open field area where people were digging with shovels. After getting out of his car, we walked a hundred yards to two mines- one they were filling up, and one they had been digging. The wet ground was apparent as they were digging. The earth was sopping wet as they removed the it with shovels and small baskets to whisk away the muddy clumps. We took photos and video and chatted with the miners. It looked like brutal work. The heat was intense, humidity high and equipment basic. I wasn't completely upset that we weren't going to traverse the mine. The weather conditions had made that impossible. After our mining experience, we decided to go back to the hotel to pack our bags. We werent staying any longer than we needed to. We placed all our bags I Chinthaka's car and headed to the gem district. The main area itself is lined with gem shops on both sides of the street, maybe twenty or so shops lining the block. There were people everywhere, and because it was allow season, we were apparently their superstars. Chinthaka took us to Sarath's shop, located on the second floor of a three story building. It was a small office, no bigger than a medium sized office cubicle back in the States. We were followed by many other gem dealers, squeezing into this small space. They were all vying for our business, but it wasn't a competition. Sri Lankan people tend to help each other as best they can, stranger or not. I thought that it would be better for business if I bought a gem from my host and his friend. But it didn't seem to matter to them. For the next 2 hours, we were showed hundreds of gems of all sizes and cuts. The power was in my hands because of the time of year, and the fact that I had been given the ok from a friend to purchase her a pink sapphire for up to $800 to $1000. The more I spent, the better the deals were going to be. I knew exactly what I wanted and I demanded it from everyone- one light pink sapphire, round cut, 1.5 to 2 carats with very little inclusions. That was for Kristine. I wanted a 1 to 2 carat blue sapphire, royal navy in color, round cut, clear with very little inclusions. I was able to find what I wanted for a very good price- I could not wholeheartedly endorse spending the money for Kristine's gem. I would find out later that I made the correct decision. Even Chinthaka balked at the price I was given for a 2 carat pink that I was admiring. I was disappointed that I could not secure a gem for my friend. However, they did ship and he knew exactly what I wanted. So we decided to stay in touch through email. A gem of the quality I wanted for Kristine would be available sooner or later. What a flurry of activity that was! The whole experience was exciting. Although I didn't really know shit about gems, besides the little I read online and the experience with the dealer in Kandy, I actually faired well. Chinthaka agreed that the price I haggled down to was very fair. Chinthaka took us to a certified government gem appraiser that would confirm that my gem was real, and the specs of the gem itself. During the appraisal process,we took Chinthaka out to lunch and discussed our plans. We had decided to head to a beach town on the south coast, Hikkaduwa. Apparently, this was a great tourist destination for surfing and beach parties, scuba and snorkeling. It sounded perfect. One of my goals in Sri Lanka was to catch some waves on a surfboard. Here was my chance. It was time to get out of kandy. We would be ale to catch a mid afternoon bus with one transfer to Hikkaduwa. Chinthaka drove us to the bus station and directed us where to go. We exchanged goodies and I told him that we would be in touch. We thanked him for the wonderful experiences he provided and the patience with which he death with us. He was a very good man and someone I will not soon forget. The rest of the evening was spent dealing with more uncomfortable bus rides and transfers. I dozed in an out of sleep. David chatted up some locals on the bus. The mobile quarters were tight. I still had my pack on while I was sitting. We arrived in Hikkaduwa around 730pm. As usual, we took some time to find a suitable hotel. After talking to a local, the only requirement being a good vibe and potential beach parties, we arrived at Mambo. It was the only hotel with music playing at the dining area, 5 meters from the beach. There were a few tourists here and the chill tranquility permeated the air. This was definitely the spot. I negotiated a room, and the rest of the night was spent celebrating our arrival. I would like to say that we started the party here. I probably wouldn't be too far off. We met 2 nice English girls on holiday, Dominique and Kerry. The rest of the night, we chatted them up, joked and laughed with the locals, and all in all, had a serious blast. We made plans the next day to meet with the girls for lunch.

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