#18--I've Got Seoul

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8/20 to 8/23/10
Seoul, South Korea

If I was able, I would have ended my journey in Iraq or Afghanistan, but since that was not practical, I opted for Seoul, South Korea. I'm glad I did on so many levels. I was excited, first off, to visit the homeland of my good friend, Bill. I can see why he has such pride for his country. South Korea and her people are amazing and welcoming. I also wanted to investigate the Korean war (1950-53) via museums, sites and veterans. Lastly, with ongoing tensions between North Korea and the rest of the democratic world, I feel visiting the DMZ makes the purpose of this journey very current and even more relevant.

I stayed in Itaewon per Bill's advice and discovered what has to be the gayest place in Asia. Turns out, my hotel was in the area known as "Homo Hill," which is much better than it's neighbor, "Hooker Hill." To be fair, neither area really summarize South Korea, but are subcultures nonetheless. The irony is that some older Koreans insist homosexuality does not exist in South Korea. The other irony is how "Homo Hill" is frequented by U.S. military from the nearby base; not askin' or tellin', but definitely queenin' and flirtin'.

I had so many questions for these kids, and it helped me understand life in the military today. I know I must have come across as an interrogator half the time. Even with their crew cuts and USMC tattoos, they were a little guarded to answer questions that would identify them as being in the U.S. military. Eventually, when I explained why I was asking, they relaxed a little and shared their thoughts on Don't Ask Don't Tell and our current wars.

Many of the soldiers I spoke to had girlfriends back home and seemed a wee-bit confused about their sexuality. They all thought punishment for DADT was not right, but most felt DADT made sense. They had a mixed reaction of ease and uncertainty concerning its' repeal. On the other hand, all of them said everyone already knows who is gay in the military because of their association with other gay servicemen, and that there is a rather high percentage of gays in the military. They said the only people who really care are "old dudes like John McCain."

Some of the soldiers I spoke to had been to the Middle East and viewed it as a job. Questions I asked about fear and the horrors of war (which in retrospect was pretty messed up bar talk on my part) made them uneasy and quick to leave. DUH!! The ones who served in the Middle East were happy to be done, and the ones who hadn't yet were itching to go. Opinions varied about what is the best course of action in the Middle East, but all felt it wasn't their duty to make policy, only follow it.

I thought it was kind of funny how some of these hot military guys stopped by to hit on me, but by the end of my interrogation, were avoiding me like the plague. It was then that I realized I was being a total nerd and a jerk all rolled up in one. I wasn't bothered (although kinda surprised) that my mind conquered my labido...odd how it happened so naturally. Now that I am writing about it, I'm thinking, "what will Scotty say?" First, he'd say, "Bullshit--give me the real scoop." Followed by, "Who ARE you? You ARE a nerd!" I don't quite understand it myself, Scotty.

What did bother me, however, was the self-realization of how insensitive I was being towards their experiences. What is textbook non-fiction for me is real-life for them. It is also something they chose and believe in. I can see how my questions, while well-intentioned, could come across as inappropriate and uncomfortable. This is something I need to take note of and regulate in my being if peace really is to begin with me.

One thing that is cool about the timing of my visit is that it is the 60 year anniversary of the Korean War, so there are many special exhibits to commemorate what is generally ignored. The "Forgotten War" will be better remembered by this history teacher. I spent quite a few hours in the Korean War Memorial and Museum. They had a lot of cool tanks and airplanes on the premises for me to climb on and in. There were four different halls dedicated just to the Korean War and another to Korean involvement in WWII.

After the museums, I checked out Seodaemun Prison, a facility used from 1909-1945 to house and torture independence fighters who opposed Japanese colonial rule. I wasn't aware of how the Japanese subjugated the Korean people throughout the first half of the 20th century. They were forced to learn Japanese and abandon Korean identity. In school, Korean children were taught they were inferior to the Japanese and were to be in service to them. In WWII, the Japanese used the Koreans to manufacture war materials and also forced them to serve unarmed and unprotected on the front lines as human shields. I understand why some of the Koreans I know have difficulty with the Japanese people.

I ended my time in Korea with a visit to the DMZ, the no-fire zone between North and South Korea. My biggest disappointment was that all the full-day DMZ trips were booked, which means I was unable to go into Pammunjeom and to the military base where North Korean troops face-off with South Korean troops at the border of each country amidst kilometers of barbed-wire, landmines, anti-tank barriers and other military fortifications. I REALLY wanted to see that.

Instead, I settled for a half-day trip and was able to view all that stuff from a lookout tower. My trip did include entry into the DMZ as well as admission to the tunnels built by North Korea after the cease-fire to wage a surprise attack on Seoul. I wasn't even aware these tunnels existed. After walking the tunnel for a couple of kilometers, I was only a few feet from the North Korean border... 70 meters below the surface.

I was both saddened and fascinated by the pissing-contest relationship of the two Koreas. They remind me of two squabbling brothers, each trying to oudo the other with nationalism and propaganda. Yet the threat is still very real. I know I will return to Korea someday, and when I do, hope to see more patches in their relationship than tears.

I really liked Seoul and am sure I will be equally happy when I see the rest of the country in the future. Unlike Tokyo, Seoul has a balanced blend of westernization without being swallowed up by it. Therefore, I had the comforts of home within the charm of a uniquely Korean atmosphere. The culture can be seen everywhere, from the Grand Palace of Shining Happiness (Gyeongbokgung), to the sidestreets off the main drags. This is complimented with the presence of nature throughout the city.

I also liked how there was a blend of all types of culture in Seoul, with equally diverse food choices. I mostly sampled the Korean barbecue options and knew exactly what to order thanks to my Korean upbringing via Bill. He did fail to mention how they eat with thin metal chopsticks, which provided an initial challenge. What's up with that, Bill?

My only regret, aside from not scheduling my DMZ trip months in advance, was limiting my time in Korea to only three days. This is a country that deserves lengthy exploration from a less weary traveler.

Author's note: I return home tomorrow!! One journal left... "#19...Home, Where Peace Begins." See you soon America.

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Photos

My Favorite flag in the World
I love the South Korean Flag. Like the Japanese and Korean people I met, I took a picture flashing my peace sign

At the Korean War Memorial
This memorial was so big, there is another set of statues on the other side and a giant cement missile-like column between them.

Korean Lock up
at Seodaemun Prison

at Gyeongbokgung
Hall used for entertaining royalty and diplomats at the Grand Palace

Freedom Bridge
Bridge over the DMZ connecting the two Koreas

Stones of Peace Wall
A peace monument at the DMZ made of stones from 86 battlefields in 64 different countries. I love how I appear in the middle of war on a quest for peace.

Gyeongbokgung
The entrance to the Grand Palace of Shining Happiness