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Published: February 6th 2006
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Happy Lunar New Year! I’m a few days late but apparently we just got through one of the biggest Korean holidays. My students explained to me that it is a time of offering to ancestors where the whole family gets together for the weekend to wear traditional clothing (hanbok), eat foods that are strategically placed on the offering table, and bow to their elderly who then in return give the children money.
For Colin and I it meant a three day weekend and an empty city because everyone headed back to their home towns outside of Seoul. It was the strangest feeling to walk the streets with so few people. It felt like we were walking down a street at home actually…like downtown Edmonton on a Sunday morning. It made us realize how used to the commotion and crowds we’ve gotten; even the Sunday mornings here are usually 40 times more crowded and busy than Edmonton’s Friday afternoon rush hour.
So although we were pretty pumped to have more breathing room on the subway and sidewalks, most restaurants, stores, and other attractions were closed so our plan to take on the city without the crowds eventually lost its appeal.
We did, however, go to a traditional Korean village in downtown Seoul that contains small houses from the Joseon era. (Kind of like a Fort Edmonton Park) They had singers in traditional hanbok and traditional Korean games set up for people to try so it was pretty neat. When we first found out that we were getting a three day weekend, I had hoped that we would get out of the city. But, we weren’t really on the ball there—apparently train tickets out of the city had been sold out for weeks. Oh well.
Early in the month we also went on a hike on a mountain in the north with a nice Korean guy named Jun.. It was pretty chilly and icy, but it was great to be outside in the fresh air surrounded by trees and mountains. Hiking in Korea is pretty hilarious though. At some points there were line ups. Yup, a constant stream of people was either in front or behind us. Although some people were gawking at us for wearing runners with none of those little metal pick thingies for the ice (Colin will love that description since I think he told me three
time during the hike what they are actually called), many greeted us with smiles and English hellos which I must say is a first coming from people simply passing by. Due to the city’s size (and probably its Confusionist roots where you don’t exist unless you have formerly met someone or are clearly higher on the pecking order) a hello in passing is a rare thing. At the peak we ate our gimbap and drank some makgeolli (hard liquor that looks like milk)—which, according to Jun, is Korean tradition.
Another activity this month included an outing to the War Memorial Museum. I’d say this was probably one of the most interesting museums I’ve been to, but I have learned that I can only last for maybe an hour or an hour and a half in museums before the slow foot shuffling, reading, and quietness makes me feel like I’m in a coma and I need to get out. Interesting to note that the Korean War between the North and South never officially ended—there was only a cease-fire. (I was having a few vague flashbacks to high school social studies during my visit.) So I guess that helps explain why
every male Korean still has to serve 2 years of military duty.
We ended up doing another hike last weekend with Jun, Dave, and Emily. This one was at another mountain near the edge of the city and even more crowded than our first experience. This one was pretty steep and required help from some of the ropes they have thankfully added. Colin provided some entertainment for the crowds when he decided to take a “short cut” up a steep rock wall á la spiderman style. I didn’t get a picture ‘cause he had the camera in his pocket but he later admitted that it got his adrenalin going.
Yesterday we went to a Korean league basketball game. It was so fun and exciting! The crowds are awesome here. The basketball quality was just okay, but it was definitely a couple hours well spent. I think Colin was more in awe of the cheerleaders who had these bizarre outfits and were so awkward and frail looking…let’s just say he got a few photos. We found out about the game through one of Colin’s kindergarten student’s who mentioned to Colin that he was going to the game on Saturday.
Swat for a strike
We were walking down the street and all these guys went walking by. They had been sitting in a bus watching a bunch of strikers. After we expressed interest in going, this kid’s mom ended up booking tickets for us, giving us directions, meeting us at the gate, and then refusing money for tickets. During the game, little Kevin (who wasn’t sitting with us ‘cause they got their tickets earlier), even came and delivered us some drinks that his parents bought for us! They were so nice.
So that’s our January in a nutshell. (Well all the fun stuff, anyway.) We are still working some long days but all in all it's pretty good.
Now we're looking forward to Colin's sister, Christine, coming in two weeks!
XOXO
Kristy
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Mom
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Love that SPAM!
The editorials are super and love those pics! Can't wait to be with you (if I survive 11+ hours on a plane - UGH!) Mom