Feeling somewhat human again

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Namche Bazar, Nepal

Altitude at start of day: 3,985 meters / 13,071 feet

My sinuses are better today, or at least not as bad (which isn't saying much). I think the dust we keep kicking up is perpetuating the problem, making for somewhat unpleasant days of trekking. Even though they have improved, my ability to sleep hasn't. I've spent the last several nights in a sort of slumber purgatory; not really awake nor asleep. I just kind of lay there with my eyes shut, hoping that does the trick.

The cold has not yet subsided. While our waters have not frozen it remains cool in our rooms. I've had enough of the cold. When I get home I'm moving someplace warm like Key West or Cuba.

After our breakfast we set out on our morning trek, leaving Pangboche behind. The morning session was downhill with many rocks - more than I remembered or noted in my journal. Dave's and my knees were pretty sore by lunch. It was nice to have a chance to rest them before heading out again this afternoon.

The afternoon trekking was rocky, but not nearly as much as this morning. That provided us with some relief after a couple grueling days.

Much of the time was spent moving forward and looking around without saying much. When something was said, it either had something to do with Hari's many girlfriends - women that he found attractive along the way, bringing about the saying take picture when we come across a pretty woman - or giving Ram the business about his belly. Dave joked that he had an extra pack on the front. I tossed a stone at his rear and went “HUH!” like the herders do to the yaks and Hari hit him below the belt when he laughed and, out of nowhere, said “Ha ha. Ram is very fat.”

We made several stops on our way to Namche, returning to the construction site where it appears some progress has been made. We arrived at Namche just before 3:00. The afternoon was not nearly as tough as the morning though apparently the last two days will be hard on the knees, as Ram told Dave even his knees hurt after those segments. Hurray.

We're staying in the same room as last time. We had problems with the lock before; they gave us four keys for a padlock and only one worked. We received four keys again. I tried - no luck. Hari - the same. Dave grew frustrated as he knew which key would work. It didn't. One of the workers came up to help. He couldn't get it either.. Finally they tried the keys from the room next door and these worked find. Comforting. We used our own lock.

Inside, our bodies employed a developed sixth sense - knowing when a decent normal toilet is nearby. Both of us had to go, basking in the glory of pure relief.

I continued my trip back to humanity with a shave and a hot shower. I felt like John Mason in the beginning of The Rock. “I want a suite in the Fairmont Hotel. A shower, a shave and the feel of a suit.” The shower and shave were enough to make me almost feel human again. Dave continues to refuse to shave and is dedicated to maintaining the 'mountain man' look until returning home.

We spent the afternoon reading and using the Internet and I caught up a bit on my journal. We also met a couple girls that were part of an Irish trekking group that were heading to base camp. We shared a few tips, surely sounding a bit negative and definitely terrifying them about what lies ahead. But it's all worth it. It's a great experience. I meant it.

For dinner, Ram cooked us a special roasted chicken with fries and veggies. This was the first time since we left Kathmandu that either of us ate meat. It was glorious. Dave proclaimed, “This is so good. I don't even care if I get diarrhea and start vomiting. It's worth it.” I wouldn't go that far but it was excellent.

We read a bit more before heading off to bed after 9:00. This was a late one for us two night owls. Tomorrow we trek down to Phakding.

Altitude at end of day: 3,440 meters / 11,284 feet

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Photos

Tengboche Monastery
Perhaps the most famous monastery in the region.

Me and Ram
At Tengboche Monastery.

Porter
Porters carry heavy loads, like this guy who is hauling a couple sheets of plywood uphill on his back for miles.

Power of my written word
The shop owner must have read my blog and removed the offensive 9/11 flag, substituting an offshoot of the American flag.