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Published: March 27th 2007
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So so much has happened since I last wrote it's hard to know where to start. Plus this is costing me a million rupees per second, plus I'm a bit altitude-y and my usual wit and erudition are blunted somewhat...however..bear with me...
Spent the second day in Kathmandu wandering around Durbar Square which is amazing, full of ancient temples covered in extremely erotic art. You name it, they're doing and often with more than one person, or demon or animal!!! It was really hot - about 80c. We did a bit of shopping and went for the world's largest pizza in the evening in anticipation of the next day. Slept incredibly badly for about an hour because of jet lag, pizza and nervous excitement before we got up at 4.15 am (urgh) to catch our Yeti Airlines flight to Lukla.
The plane was very old and tiny and looked as if it wouldn't get off the ground. Funny that. It all got a bit too exciting as 12 of us loaded on and the plane started up and taxied painfully off down the runway, the pilot looked a bit puzzled at times, but nevertheless pulled the throttle out
and went for it. He pulled up just in time as the propellor bust. We had to go back to the bays and were unloaded while 12 Nepalese engineers stood round scratching their heads. Thoughtfully a brass band began rehearsing nearby which cheered us up. After half an hour or so we piled back on the plane. Needless to say the whole episode added a certain frisson to an already more than exciting flight. This time the plane got in the air, the propellors kept turning and we headed to Lukla.
It was incredible seeing the mountains before us which turned to horror as we spied the runway. It's not called the world's shortest landing strip for nothing. It's literally about 200 yards and really finished an already deeply thrilling flight off in style.
The air felt thin and cold and clear as we sorted ourselves out at Lukla and prepared for the off. As we started out along the trail I was simply speechless at the sheer beauty of everything. The sun was shining hotly on us, surrounded by mountains, the path was good, there were wild flowers and green around us. The air smelt of pine
resin and what is not to like about this? To love about it? It felt like heaven.
The Lonely PLanet recommends walking to Phakding about 3 hours away and stopping there before the big climb to Namche Bazaar the next day. We decided to push on to the bottom of the big climb and a good thing too. We really made life a lot easier for ourselves today.
The lodge at Monju where we stayed was pretty good with a nice big dining room with a big fire in the middle of it so it was quite warm. The loo was typical of all Trek loos - a squat loo. I'm going to go into some detail here so do forgive me but when life has been pared down to all but the bare essentials then this is REALLY IMPORTANT. Knee problems and squat loos and are not compatible things, but sooner or later you have to face facts and get on with it. You feel especially vulnerable as you realise a huge fly is buzzing round your bottom - I'll say no more.....remember this though when you hear what happened today.
We got up after 12
hours sleep to walk to Namche, the big Sherpa town on the way to base camp. It was a tough old walk as you ascend to 3440m where altitude sickness is a real danger. We did it however and made it to our lodge. Now here's the thing - the lodge has hot showers AND A PROPER SIT DOWN LOO!!!!! You have no idea of the sheer joy and happiness this had given me until you are in a similar situation. Of course Si is outraged and stomping around muttering how trekking was never like this in his day. Not so morally outraged however that he didn't race to have a hot shower when we arrived....
I've had to be really sketchy about stuff as this connection is really expensive. I really want to tell you more about the beauty of the place, of Phil's idea for a new invention to take to the Dragon's Den, an 'Install Stool', a portable devide for travellers in countries with squat loos that they can use to sit on, of the fantastic food, the lovely people and the sheer joy of the simplicity of life. Also of how scary at times it
is to think that we are now 8 days walk from the nearest road, 2 days from Lukla, if anything happens like spraining an ankle or my knee packs up - then it's stay or be carried (oh the humiliation) back to get help.
Lets not think on that though. I have to log off now. No sign of altitude problems and now acclimatising at Namche for 2 days. More when I can
Rachel x
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