Kathmandu to Bardia National Park

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Monday - March 28
Breakfast on the rooftop restaurant (killer organic coffee in a French press!) then pack up and settle the bill. Puscal arrives to get me to the airport for my 9 am flight to Nepalgunji where I would be met by a driver from the Rhino Lodge Bardia. Somehow bumble my way through check-in and make it to the departure area. The room is an interesting mix of Nepali travelers, a group of monks, obviously on their way to Lumbini, western trekkers in all their finest hi-tech clothing, a group of Asian middle-aged tourists, and me. (The middle-aged Asian-American tourist). I can barely understand the departure announcements and go twice to "Buddha Air Flight Information" in a mild state of panic. My flight has been delayed 2 hours due to weather (I think). When the flight finally boards we're on a prop plane - I try and not think of the Saigon flight with the failed propeller. My seatmate is a young Nepali on a business trip. He works for a pharmaceutical company in marketing. He has to travel frequently as he covers the entire country. The flight is 55 minutes long (he timed it on his phone). I am relieved to see my driver, Gowindar, and we begin the 3 hour drive to the resort. We pass through small and large towns and beautiful farmscapes. Lentils, rice and wheat seem to be the principal crops, according to the driver. Along the way we stop for water, snacks, petrol and to view gharial and marsh mugger (two types of endangered crocs) from a bridge. Finally get to the Rhino Lodge the last road through a Tharu village. Upon arrival I learn I am the only guest at the resort. It's not good to be queen if you dislike being the center of attention. I meet my naturalist-guide-cook, Sundar, the cook-waiter-guide, Padam, the manager-waiter-busboy Anush. It's kind of like the circus, everyone does double or triple-duty. They're all really nice and I won't have to worry about snoring neighbors. I am in the Rhino Room which has the floating bathroom floor due to poor drainage. They supply zoris for the bathroom, so I adjust. After a ginormous lunch and rest Sundar takes me on a walking tour of the area surrounding the resort. Then back for dinner. I find the power will be conveniently off right before dinner every night, right when I want to shower, so I will never have a warm shower. Another incredibly huge meal and I try to tell Padam I do not eat that much. He is a fast learner and subsequent meals are a little smaller. I quickly fall asleep under my lovely lacy pink mosquito net.

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