Warm in my sleeping bag with lots of intense dreams, I think of them as my altitude dreams. Have to make 1 toilet run in the night, cold but so worth it - the night sky is so clear and starry. No yaks to contend with only a few snowy steps. Fall back to sleep easily for another couple of hours. Breakfast is a treat - last nights leftover birthday cake has been fried up and has taken on a kind of smoky taste, compliments the porridge nicely! Say goodbye to Santos and Minmar, the lodge owners, it has been a really personalised stay, I think to myself, yet again, how really lucky we have been to get to have have this experience. On the road at 0821. We have a very easy start, the ground
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