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Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 24th 2012

Rise and shine in the dark - it's 0350. Pack up last few items; having slept in my clothes there's not too much to stuff in. Apparel du jour - long johns, 2 x socks, trek pants, wool singlet, wool long sleeve thermal, wool 360 degree Kathmandu top, down jacket, fleece hat, scarf, gloves, headlamp (all matching- gotta think of the photos!). Nervous but excited, choke down some breaky and off we go. It is so exciting heading up the hill in the dark, the headlight beams criss cross the path ahead and behind me. I am concentrating on the boots in front of me illuminated by torchlight. The wind is up and it is really cold (but exciting). Trudging forward we stop intermittently for everyone to catch up, the sky changes and that pre-dawn colour ... read more
Leaving Thorung Phedi
Looking back in Thorung Phedi direction
Approaching High Camp

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 24th 2012

Salimos a las 10am de Tatopani en un jeep que compartimos con otros extranjeros con destino a Ghasa, a mitad de camino el jeep se accidentó y tuvimos que hacer una parada forzada mientras reparaban el vehículo luego de lo cual el chofer se sentó tranquilamente a tomarse un té; al cabo de un poco más de media hora retomamos el camino y como a las 12:30 llegamos a Ghasa en donde almorzamos y tomamos un autobús a Pokhara casi a las 2 de la tarde, era un bus viejo y destartalado pero comparado con los otros medios de transporte que habíamos usado en los últimos días parecía un lujo viajar ahí, y hasta era posible dormir. Llegamos a Pokhara como a las 6pm, nos dispersamos cada quien en un hotel distinto (los demás fueron a ... read more
hasta que se nos ocurrió jugar cartas para pasar el rato
el jeep
el jeep

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 23rd 2012

Desayuno a las 8am, ya me sentía mucho mejor. Caminamos un rato por el pueblo y fuimos a un monasterio budista en donde pudimos presenciar parte de una ceremonia que hacen cuando alguien muere, fue muy bonita, estaban sólo los monjes y el señor que había solicitado la ceremonia y nos invitaron a sentarnos dentro del lugar donde hacían la ceremonia (en donde oran y tienen el altar) y hasta nos dieron té tibetano (té + leche + sal + mantequilla), un poquito difícil de tragar aunque el sabor no era del todo desagradable. A medio día agarramos un minibús a Ghasa, nos tocaron los asientos del final y como la vía es una precaria carretera de tierra nos pasamos las 3 horas que duró el viaje brincando todo, corrijo: TODO, el tiempo, que si no ... read more
vista desde el monasterio
ceremonia
ofrendas

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 23rd 2012

Despite yesterday's horrors I can't wait to get stuck into today. We take the summer path which is essentially pretty flat. Each little ascent that we make though is getting harder, it has become noticeable to me now that we are at higher altitude. SOBOE- the abbreviation that I use at work all the time for short of breath on exertion springs to mind. The track is dusty and stony, there is no low lying ice or snow. We take our first long suspension bridge for the day over to the other side and pass through Chuli Lether (Letdar)- lots of spelling variations it seems. We don't stop, it's only been an hour or so of walking to this point. Another hour of the same terrain brings us across another even longer bridge and we take ... read more
Leaving Yak Kharka
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Leaving Yak Kharka

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 22nd 2012

The route this morning is ascending up through the fields behind Maya to join the limestone walled track leading down from Tare Gomba, this will then take us back onto the Circuit towards Yak Kharka (4020m). The fields are stony and barren and it's a reasonable climb. We spot a large trekking group a distance ahead of us. We also spot several groups of blue sheep, something has spooked them and they are running en mass across the landscape (I was kind of hoping a leopard might be in pursuit- no such luck for me, good luck for the sheep!). We walk steadily upward for 2 1/2 hours through dusty track and low scrub- the colour is not dissimilar to the bush and northern countryside of Perth during summer (ie- parched and scraggy). We catch up ... read more
Heading out of Kangshar
Heading out of Kangshar
Heading out of Kangshar

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 22nd 2012

Me desperté como a las 7:30 para dar un paseo por la parte vieja del pueblo antes de salir, el pueblo estaba tranquilo, a parte de un par de personas vi un montón de cabras que las llevaban a algún lugar a pastar y me tuve que esperar como 15 ó 20 minutos a que pasara la procesión que llenaba la calle a todo lo ancho, aburrida saqué unas galletas para comer mientras esperaba y me enteré que las cabras tienen un agudo sentido del olfato y que son tan lambusias como un perro callejero, y se me empezaron a acercar varias al mismo tiempo y por temor a un ataque colectivo de cabras tuve que guardar las galletas. Como a las 11 estábamos todos listos para salir y fuimos a la estación de jeeps a ... read more
baños públicos en Marpha
calle típica de Marpha

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 21st 2012

“I had seen those astonishing snow peaks to the north; to close that distance, to go step by step across the greatest range on Earth...was a true pilgrimage, a journey of the heart.” When speaking with my parents some months ago over Skype, informing them of my intentions to undertake the challenge of hiking over 100km around the Annapurna Circuit, ascending to heights of over 5000m in altitude (and higher than the famous base camp at Everest), I was aware of two things: firstly that my mother would suffer cardiac arrest if she thought I would be doing this alone (my original intention); and secondly, that my father would undoubtedly want to join me on the journey. I allowed my proclamations to settle with them for a few days before receiving a ... read more
Himalayan sunrise
Memorial in Bagarchhap
Mountain Sheep

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 21st 2012

This morning we leave Manang heading for Khangsar (3734m). Few stops to take some photos of the bakery produce- it all looks so good! And we are off.... Our group of 4 (Mary, Dhana, Santos and I) has become 5- Stephane has asked if it is OK for him to join us for a few days. It is quite forested for part of the way; pine plantations along the lower banks of the river and extending up the hills, with silver birch at the higher levels, all amongst the snow. The song, "It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas", pops into my head, I suppress the urge to sing .... Easy walking this morning along dusty trails . The river has really narrowed, we have a bit of an uphill climb leading into Khangsar. The ... read more
Manang Carbohydrate Series
Manang Carbohydrate Series
Manang Carbohydrate Series

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 21st 2012

El día empezó temprano con lo que se supone era un pequeño paseo a la cima de una colina que está frente a Kagbeni desde donde se podía apreciar una vista de 360 grados de los alrededores (el masivo tibetano, las grandes montañas nevadas de donde veníamos, Kagbeni, etc); fuimos solo Martin, Chris y yo, los demás no se quisieron despertar antes de las 7am para hacer el paseíto (no era recomendable ir más tarde porque alrededor de las 11am llega un viento fenomenal a la colina que hace difícil y un poco peligroso el descenso). Al cruzar el río que pasa por Kagbeni vimos una multitud de hindúes bañándose y afeitándose la cabeza en el río (es un ritual que practican los hombres hindúes en algunas festividades o como señal de luto cuando muere un ... read more
y esta es la parte "buena" del camino, por lo menos se puede andar de pie
la magnífica vista desde arriba (hacia la planicie tibetana) y los chicos trepándose al techo de la casita (en ese plan no me anoté)
vista hacia Kagbeni

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 20th 2012

What is with these vivid dreams? I sleep well but the dreams are intense- altitude effect? Anyway, after breakfast the plan is to go for a little bit of a walk (... 6hrs later we arrive back in Manang after the little walk). We head out past the cats perched in the sunshine, past the bakeries and shops and down a lane way, down a hill and across the icy paths behind New Manang towards Old Manang. We make our way up the hill and over the bridge, passing the ice blue Gangapurna glacial lake- seriously one of the most stunning things I have seen. There is a large frozen patch skewed off to the side with starfish shaped cracks just beginning to emerge (OK- you need to use your imagination- it is those skinny stafish ... read more
Old Manang
Looking back at Old Manang
Gangapurna Glacial Lake




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