Sanctuary at Annapurna, part 1

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Having seen the mountains from afar in both Shimla and Pokhara, it was now time to get into the heart of the Himalayas. I'd decided to do the Annapurna Sanctuary trek, which would take 12 days to go from Nayapul, via Poon Hill and Machhupuchhre Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp, the destination of the trek at 4,130m above sea level.

Day 1 - Nayapul to Tikedungha

The day started in Pokhara, where my small trekking group assembled for a taxi ride to the starting point of the trek. There would be me and 3 other trekkers - Kirsten from NZ and Lisa and Nina from Sweden. Our guide was Ratna, and our porters were Ratna (#2 - later to become the 'yoga porter') and Gopal (aka 'the laughing porter'), all Nepalese. We drove to the start point at Nayapul, an uninspiring muddy track leading off the pot-holed main road. Our porters would be carrying our main bags for the trek, and we marvelled at how these tiny men shouldered two 15kg backpacks each(physically bigger than themselves!) and set off at a brisk pace. Our first day of walking was an easy introduction to the trek, with just a few hours walk through an open, agricultural valley, with terraces of millet fields on each side and a gentle stream at the valley floor. On the way, Ratna #1 christened the Swedish girls' baggy trousers 'hip-hop pants', which they remained for the duration of the trek (in Nepal, these pants are worn by single Newari women). We arrived at our first lodge for a relaxing evening, and played our first game of what would become a dominant feature of the trek - Phase 10.

Day 2 - Tikedhunga to Ghorepani

The second day started with a steep two-hour ascent up stone steps (which would quickly become Lisa's most dreaded spectre). Lunch at the top of the valley, bathed in sunshine, was very pleasant, but over too soon as we pressed onwards. The afternoon's walking was through dense and magical forrest, the type seen in fantasy films and great for trekking. Late in the afternoon, we ascended into Ghorepani, our stop for the night, but the place was enshrouded in a thick mist which hid the spectacular views north towards Annapurna. Ghorepani provided our first taste of trekking comforts, as we enjoyed a big slice of apple pie and a buffalo steak next to a cosy open fire.

Day 3 - Ghorepani to Tadapani

This morning was a rude awakening after the comforts of last night, as we woke before 5am to make the hour-long trek to the top of Poon Hill, from where we would see the sunrise. We donned our headtorches and down jackets and joined a procession of people making the trip. After a hard uphill slog, we reached the summit and found our position ready to enjoy the approaching spectacle. The Himalayan panorama visible from Poon Hill is spectacular to say the least... to the left is Dhaulagiri, straight ahead is Annapurna and just to its side is Machhupuchhre... a clutch of 6,000m+ peaks (some topping 8,000m) sitting atop dramatic valleys. Holding our mugs of tea for warmth, we (Ratna, Kirsten and I... the girls gave up and went back to bed!) watched as the colours changed from blues to oranges, slowly at first, and then in a sudden burst of activity, the sky was on fire as reds, purples, pinks and yellows danced across the different mountains. Within half an hour, the display was over and the clouds started to roll in. It was now time to descend for breakfast and get on with the days actual trek... which begin with a ascent of the same altitude on the other side of the valley! To help us on our way, Ratna played tunes on his phone... which sadly extended to Wham, Brian Adams and Celine Dion! So we hiked singing the Titanic theme tune for that authentic Nepal experience. We passed through more magical forests and arrived in Tadapani mid-afternoon to a lovely sunny lawn and magnificent views of the slightly-closer Annapurna summits. That night we settled in around a heated table and played out our first full game of Phase 10... which took a good few hours. In the first of several victories, Lisa claimed the Phase 10 lead for Sweden.

Day 4 - Tadapani to Ghandruk

Today was a bit of a lazy day, as we were allowed to sleep in until about 8am (!), and had only to walk for 2 hours downhill to the gurung village of Ghandruk, where we would spend the night. Our short walk through jungle brought us a few sightings of the graceful white langur monkeys, and we arrived in Ghandruk in time for lunch. Ghandruk is a beautiful, traditional gurung village, and as we strolled through to our lodge we watched locals farmers turning the millet crop into flour to make gurung bread. A slice of apple pie and some hot lemon and honey later, it was time for more Phase 10... which Lisa won again! The girls also discovered the English word 'lovely' and phrase 'on dear'... which they would use frequently to good effect throughout the rest of the trek!

Day 5 - Ghandruk to Sinuwa

Up, down, up, down, up... today was a pretty epic and knackering day of trekking! We started with an ascent out of Ghandruk, along a path liberally sprinkled by the constant donkey trains (or as the Japanese party of trekkers put it, 'good shit, good shit!'). The sun was beating down all morning, which made the ascents particularly tough, but we (and especially Kirsten!) still found time to chat to the locals on the way. Beautiful scenery again as we passed through an area scarred by landslides - more millet terraces and small farmsteads, which we appreciated all the better because we were going 'bistari bistari'... slowly! We pressed on through the largest town of Chhomrong to Sinuwa, on the other side of the valley, to make our next day's trek that little bit easier.

Day 6 - Sinuwa to the Himalaya Hotel

Our approach to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) seemed to start in earnest today as we started our ascent up the one-way track into the Sanctuary. Another sunny day made the walking tough at times, but lunch was a delight as we soaked up some rays... and the girls joined Ratna #2 in a lunchtime yoga session. We arrived at the Himalaya Hotel and immediately looked for extra layers... it was freezing, and misty! That didn't stop Kirsten joining in an impromptu game of volleyball, but I was more interested in huddling inside the dining room for another game of Phase 10! Tomorrow would see us ascend to ABC itself... but all I could think about that night was how on Earth I was still cold despite wearing my thermals, jeans and fleece, gloves, hat and scarf... all inside my cosy sleeping bag!

The trek continues in Part 2... (ooh, the suspense!)

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Photos

Photo 9
The crew makes the first of many ascents up the dreaded stone steps

Photo 10
Gopal and Ratna #2 take a well-deserved rest

Photo 5
A pair of colourful local vehicles

Photo 8
A land of millet terraces and traditional farmhouses

Photo 20
The sky flares orange over Machhupuchhre

Photo 22
Sunrise from Poon Hill

Comments

[Kirsten Gray]

Phase 10
Ah, the memories Jon! Great to read from an office in NZ.....I'm pretty sure you missed the part when I won phase 10?

[SmithyWorldWide]

Would that be the game where you 'accidentally' skipped a phase because it didn't suit the cards in your hand??