Blogs from Khentii, Mongolia, Asia

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Asia » Mongolia » Khentii » Khangal Nuur June 23rd 2013

Kazakh families mostly live in the west of Mongolia, but some moved east in order to work in the coal mines here. When we arrived they had just slaughtered a goat and were in the process of cutting it up with a blow torch-type instrument. I later saw the entrails in one bowl and the head on a separate plate, everything ready to be used (in fact the head, according to our guide, is a delicacy). Kazakh families are usually Muslim, so their gers do not contain the usual Buddhist shrine or ornaments that I had seen in the gers belonging to ethnic Mongolians, but instead the walls are decorated with wall coverings decorated with traditional Kazakh embroidery. Other than this there are no obvious differences in lifestyle, although we were told they use almost no ... read more
Traditional embroidered wall hanging in ger
Yogurt in Khokh Nuur
Cream in Khokh Nuur

Asia » Mongolia » Khentii » Binder June 23rd 2013

I was fortunate enough to see a ger being erected today, at our latest stopping-point (I was nearly bitten to death by mosquitoes and horse flies in the process, though - I counted 30+ bites the day after). It was a joint effort between all 4 members of the family, men and women, plus our driver. When we arrived the floor had already been laid and the door was in place, and the furniture had been arranged on the floor (the ger is erected around the furniture, since it won't fit through the door afterwards). The next step is to put in place the lattice wood frame that runs around the circumference, and then the poles that make up the roof frame are put in place and affixed to the lattice (we tried to help at ... read more
Central pole waiting to be fixed in place
Putting the poles in place
Poles hooked onto lattice

Asia » Mongolia » Khentii » River Onon June 23rd 2013

Although we didn't go anywhere today, spending two consecutive nights at the same base, it was a busy day. First we took a tour by car of the local area, which has some beautiful views of the River Onon. Then, in the afternoon, we went horse riding. When I went horse riding in the Gobi, the horses were relatively well trained and obedient: the worst they did was refuse to budge in preference to eating grass. The horses today were different (the guide explained that they have fewer tourists in this area of the country, so fewer tourist-ready horses) and mine was basically uncontrollable for a novice, so our guide had to hold the horse by a lead at all times. I was initially disappointed because the ride in the Gobi was more enjoyable once we ... read more
Lake with wild horses

Asia » Mongolia » Khentii » Binder June 22nd 2013

One of the reasons I wanted to tour the Eastern part of Mongolia was the strong connections to Chinggis Khaan, who was born and held court here. It is over 800 years since he united the disparate tribes into the nation of Mongolia for the first time, and he is still by far the most important figure in the Mongolian national consciousness. The history of his life and accomplishments - documented in The Secret History of Mongolia - are studied in depth by all schoolchildren here, and here there is Chinggis Khaan everything - beer, monuments, restaurants, bank notes, hotels. His image is all over the country and sites gain importance through a connection to him, and Mongolians remain very proud of the man and his accomplishments. This approach to him reminded me of the Russians' ... read more
Chinggis Khaan totem at Khokh Nuur
Chinggis Khaan memorial at Khokh Nuur
The view from the horse's head

Asia » Mongolia » Khentii » Khokh Nuur June 22nd 2013

Today I set off on a shorter tour to the East of the country. The scenery is very different from the Gobi, with fields full of wildflowers, lakes and patches of forest on the hills. Because of the relative abundance of trees, the nomads here make greater use of wood than those in the Gobi. Many live in gers during the winter but in summer move into small wooden homes, which are cooler than gers. They also build wooden shelters for the animals to live in during winter snows. We saw these dotted across the landscape, looking abandoned, although of course the families will return to them in winter. Firewood is also easy to come by. We did wonder about the replenishment of the trees, however, as the forests are small and there do not seem ... read more
Wildflowers
Khentii Province landscape
Wooden summer home




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