Up the Rejang River


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Asia » Malaysia » Sarawak
June 27th 2008
Published: June 27th 2008
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A trip up the Rejang River is just another journey … or is it? Rivers are still the highways of Sarawak’s heartlands. The river banks are rich in foliage and longhouses are spaced along them. The wooden forts, built by the White Rajas when they ‘pacified’ the inland tribes, have been turned into museums. Tall durian trees and painted burial boxes look down on the passing speed boats. ... Read Full Entry



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Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

... mats of latex, which has been tapped from trees growing wild in the jungle, drying ...
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

... coffee beans drying ...
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

This longhouse had an outside and an inside, covered veranda.
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

Inside the women sat together working at various crafts, suc as making rattan mats.
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

This lady is preparing the material for the mat.
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

Finishing the edge of a rattan mat in the traditional way, ie here the mat is finished with young rattan rather than with plastic.
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

This lady wove this cloth ... which now hangs on my living room wall.
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

On the inside of the interior veranda are doors leading into the individual homes. This livingroom belonged to a family which had an adult daughter working in Kapit as teacher.
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

Dave inspects their collection of storeage pots.
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

They stored baskets, seives, fish traps and other utensils in the rafters of the longhouse.
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

They had two very fine drums in this community.
Kapit DistrictKapit District
Kapit District

Their ancestors were headhunters and - unlike some communities - they still display heads that were taken by longhouse members.
KapitKapit
Kapit

The ferries that ply upriver from Kapit are smaller, but great in number. They display their destinations and departure times on wooden boards propped up on the prow.
Above KapitAbove Kapit
Above Kapit

It is not really allowed, but travelling on the outside of the boat is a delight.
Above KapitAbove Kapit
Above Kapit

A longboat pulled up on the beach beneath a longhouse. This family had been waiting two weeks for their father to get home.
Above KapitAbove Kapit
Above Kapit

The river ahead.
Above KapitAbove Kapit
Above Kapit

Dave stretches out on the top of the boat.
BelagaBelaga
Belaga

The river is much narrower at Belaga.
BelagaBelaga
Belaga

Belaga has a charming Malay village in one section of the town. This is the entrance.
BelagaBelaga
Belaga

The busy main street at Belaga.
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Belaga

Another corner of the town.



19th April 2009

Kapit
Dear Gillian Thank you for your remarkable writeup on the Rejang (You have spelt it Renjang) . I am looking forward to my own group trip to the longhouses of Kapit this Friday. My friend Daniel Yiek told me about your blog. It is indeed heartwarming to know that you have written about it and I am about to write about it too. You have a different perspective as a traveller and I will see what I am going to write. My previous 5 trips were made more than 40 years ago. So I am going back an an "elder". But Kapit may still be just the same giving me all the pleasures of someone going back to the forest!! Perhaps only the river is brown. But I may be totally wrong. Hoping to hear from you too.

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