Colombia celebrated 200 years of independence while I was in Bogotá - with concerts, speeches and fireworks. The President opened a 100-year old time capsule. Bogotá, the guidebook assured me, had moved beyond its image of violence and drugs. But how to get to know a new city? Capitals are complex. They are extensive. They have long histories. They reflect the different regions and the politics inside their countries. All these things are true of Bogotá, a city about which I hardly knew even the clichés. Bogotá has over 8.5 million people, and 10% of them earn 80 times more than the poorest 10%. Yes, eighty times! But this would be more confronting to the visitor if the poverty were not mainly confined to certain enclaves. Bogotá is a city of culture, with museums of history
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