Gillian Perrett

An Erratic Traveller


Random trips made during an erratic life.





Travel Blog Posts


An Erratic Traveller icon
An Erratic Traveller
February 16th 2012

Bellingen has a reputation as a rural centre for the arts, and Camp Creative is its January tradition.All participants jump in feet first; their aim is to participate and have a go. Bollywood Dancing. Hip Hop. Aboriginal Dreaming. Beginners' Wind Instruments. Advanced Guitar. Travel Writing. Life Writing. Poetry. Acrylics Bootcamp. Mood in Water Colour. Acrylics Beadwork. Solar Etching. Portraiture and Still life. Wood and Stone Carving. Photography. World Cookery. A retired musician ran a music camp in 1986; it flourished and other disciplines clustered as if it were a magnet. Last January was Camp Creative’s twenty-sixth year and the biggest camp yet. Over one thousand participants spilled out of Bellingen High School, into the Primary School and other community venues in this small rainforest ... read more



An Erratic Traveller icon
An Erratic Traveller
October 22nd 2011

Ten days weren’t enough to show us all of Japan, but it was enough to explode a lot of stereotypes. Japan has so much to offer that ten days seemed almost an insult, even with first-rate travel professionals to organise the trip. We saw a lot: houses … gardens … temples … galleries … shopping centres … public transport. I quickly let go of a number of inappropriate assumptions I’d taken with me. Here goes ... Japan is different from the rest of Asia. Wrong in an important way. It is no more different that all countries are different. Being away from the mainland has encouraged the country to hold onto its traditions. If anything sets it apart, it is that it is fully developed. And that was my first insight: that SE Asian development isn’t ... read more



Leaving Quito

Published: October 10th 2010South America » Ecuador » North » Quito
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An Erratic Traveller
October 4th 2010

The taxi drive asked $2 above the normal fare to take me to the airport. Even so, he was still reluctant to drive through a burning roadblock. "Don't go into the city centre," my friend had warned me earlier that morning. "The criminal classes will be having a field day with the Police and Security Services on strike. The army's closed the airport as well." I hung around at the bottom of our street hoping to see what was going on. The city was alternatively unusually quiet and unusually noisy by turns. I didn't know how to read these signs. "Always confront an emergency with a full stomach," I thought. I popped into the closest restaurant that offered a three-course lunch for $1.50. The soup was a thick broth with lumps of yucca and a large ... read more



Las Islas Galápagos

Published: November 30th -0001South America » Ecuador » Galápagos
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An Erratic Traveller
September 30th 2010

Charles Darwin spent five weeks in the Galapagos in 1835. He wrote in his diary, "Nothing could be less inviting than the first appearance. A broken field of black basaltic lava, thrown into the most rugged waves, and crossed by great fissues, is every where covered by stunted, sunburnt brushwood, which shows little signs of life." Darwin got it right. The Galapagos is not your usual tropical paradise. Palm trees do not fringe beaches, and the beaches don´t have spa-warm waters. There are no sunbathing chairs and no waiters bringing sundowners. Of course there is no trace of Darwin´s visit other than the research station named in his honour and his face smiling out of many of the T shirts hanging off the souvenir stalls. So what makes the Galapagos special? There is its history. Many ... read more



Baños, the Baths, and Beyond

Published: September 4th 2010South America » Ecuador » Centre » Baños
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An Erratic Traveller
August 29th 2010

An earthquake woke me my first morning in Baños. It would have been much more exciting if I hadn´t thought it was the guy in the bunk above me rolling over! Baños is situated on the side of a volcano, a reminder that Ecuador is a very new country and still rising with as the Andes rise. I never saw the volcano Tungurahua: the town is too close to the foot of the mountain. Even when I took a night trip, slated to go to the volcano, I saw nothing. We got a view of the town in the dark, a bonfire, and the chance to buy kebabs from a barbque. Perhaps the driver chickened out. Quiteños flock to Baños for weekends and holidays to take the cure. Baños means bath and the baths in ... read more



A Carribean Coast

Published: September 1st 2010South America » Colombia
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An Erratic Traveller
August 29th 2010

The Caribbean coast dances to a different rhythm. And dance it does. From the moment we arrived in Riohacha we heard salsa music everywhere. At the end of our street was a general store-cum-bar, with loud music blasting out of it all day and much of the night. On the beach icecream vendors set up a couple of small ice chests with a couple of extra-large speakers. Music moved around us as cars drove by. And it was hot. Riohacha is an untouristed town, a relaxed tropical spot where the locals move slowly and take their relaxation seriously. Everyone moves towards the beach in the evening for the music, the sea breezes, a swim, icecream and a beer. Craftworkers set up their wares on the pavement, hoping to attract customers in this onrush. It would be ... read more



La Guajira Peninsula

Published: August 23rd 2010South America » Colombia » Riohacha
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An Erratic Traveller
August 16th 2010

After two weeks in the city and days on rollercoaster roads in the cloud forests, what better antidote than a spot of ecotourism in the desert? And if it includes a visit to an ethnic minority, then so much the better! La Guajira is a peninsular that juts north into the Caribean Ocean around the border between Colombia and Venezuela. What particular microclimate has produced this desert surrounded by jungle I don´t understand, but I do know that it contains a small area where a mountain range rises out of the desert and and sustains its own cloud forest with fresh water streams that run down into the desert and dry up. We found Kaí Ecotravel in the Lonely Planet, phoned, and booked a tour without paying a deposit. Thus we flew from chilly Bogotá to ... read more



Two Weeks in Bogotá

Published: August 5th 2010South America » Colombia » Bogota
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An Erratic Traveller
August 2nd 2010

Colombia celebrated 200 years of independence while I was in Bogotá - with concerts, speeches and fireworks. The President opened a 100-year old time capsule. Bogotá, the guidebook assured me, had moved beyond its image of violence and drugs. But how to get to know a new city? Capitals are complex. They are extensive. They have long histories. They reflect the different regions and the politics inside their countries. All these things are true of Bogotá, a city about which I hardly knew even the clichés. Bogotá has over 8.5 million people, and 10% of them earn 80 times more than the poorest 10%. Yes, eighty times! But this would be more confronting to the visitor if the poverty were not mainly confined to certain enclaves. Bogotá is a city of culture, with museums of history ... read more



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An Erratic Traveller
July 14th 2010

There's an awful lot of coffee in Columbia. So we'd heard, and decided to head straight to the Zona Caferia from Medellín, our port of entry from Ecuador. Medellín is a read brick and tile city surrounded by mountains that provide a deep green backdrop. The road from the airport to the city winds through rich agricultural country with comfortable farms and and commercial nurseries. The city was once the centre for the cocaine trade. The obvious reminder of violence past is the large number of security personnel in evidence. It is now a safe place to visit and has diversified its economy, which is clearly continuing to thrive. Civic pride is apparent everywhere, from the almost sparkling new metro system to the space given to formal artworks (including its most famous citizen Fernando Boltero) and ... read more




I CLOSE the assemblage of barbed wire and rough poles that does duty for a gate and join the neighbours' children at the roadside. While I´m exchanging morning greetings with Doña Consuela, a camioneta comes along; she shepherds all of us up onto the truck floor. I am among a gaggle of primary school kids and three of the oldest people I´ve ever seen. One has rheumy eyes. On is bent over like an inverted L. The third is so frail he could vanish in front of my eyes. On the way we pass los orsos waiting for their bus. They´re not bears, just ¨bear volunteers¨ known as "los gringos de los orsos, the bear volunteers." They pay US$600 a month to live in a house in the village and participate in the Andean Bear Research ... read more






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