Malaysia Day 12

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Day 12 The day dawned absolutely gloriously and the fine weather was back so we decided to head to George Town today. I learnt that it’s two words not one.

We caught the bus to the jetty where we arrived form Butterworth 7 days ago. This is one of the main terminals for the buses in the city, the other being the Komtar Building, the highest on Penang.

From the jetty, we proceeded along the wharf area around to Fort Cornwallis, the original landing place of Captain Francis Light. Along the way we passed several buildings that were built in the early 1900s along Weld Quay.

Captain Light worked for the East India Company and negoiated the lease of the island including protection from the British from attacks by the Siamese. However, so such protection was ever officially sanctioned by the government but was never needed anyway. The fort was originally built for palm wood but was later rebuilt by Light in brick in the early 1800s. Francis Light’s son went on to found Adelaide.

Inside the fort are several displays showing the history of the fort and Penang and the chapel is alson still there. The first marriage performed was actually Light’s wife’s second marriage. There are a few static displays of tents of the day and the gunpowder magazine.

Outside the perimeter of the fort is a lighthouse and flagstaff which the public are able to visit. You are also able o climb the lighthouse. Also in the vicinity is the Queen Victoria Diamond Jubilee memorial clock tower, which was actually completed five years after that occasion and a year after her death. The tower is actually 60'high, one foot for each year of her reign up to 1897.

As part of our self guided walking tour, we then headed towards the town itself passing the passing firts the City Hall (1902) and the Town Hall (1880). We then did a loop around the block and saw the Supreme Court Buildings (1905) and St George’s Church. The church was the first Anglican church built inn South East Asia and was built in 1818, looking more like a classic Greek building than a church. There is also a monument to Francis Light in grounds as there is at Fort Cornwallis.

We then took a walk through a few side streets looking at the vas array of businesses in the shop houses which still exist in Penang. They claim there are more of these shop houses existing in Penang than anywhere else in SE Asia. There certainly are a microcosm of life in the part of the world.

We then ventured back to Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling which is also known as the Street of Harmony owing to the number of places of worship of all religions that have being constructed in ths one street. There are several mosques (representing different nationalities), Hindu temples, Catholic and Anglican Churches ans Buddhist, Taoist and Confucanism Temples all within metres of each other proving that there is harmony in some places of this planet of ours.

We walked past the Goddess of Mercy Chinese Temple and also a small Hindu Temple. I tb was at this point that we decided we have a trishaw ride. The cost was RM30 per hour and what a way to see the town. We were seated in front of the driver and were given a tour around the town in old fashioned style, which at times was quite frightening with all the modern traffic. Our driver had been doing this for over 20 years. You would have thought he would have had enormous calves and yet they looked normal as a person who did not do as much pedaling as these guys do. There is no such thing as a pension in Malaysia and the driver of Dave and Mary’s trishaw had been doing it for 15 years and is 78 years young.

We went for a slow olde world ride through the side streets of George Town past many of the places of worship detailed above and to a the Khoo Kongsi clan house, the original building dating back to 1835. Most of the Chinese clans have a house where they meet and a lot of the funds they raise are used charitably around the island.

After the clan house, our trishaw driver took us down to waterfront to where there are 10 floating villages. Again these are for certain clans although one is for mixed clans. We went onto the Chew Jetty and walked right through to the end, approximately 400m out into the harbour. I woule estimate that there would be in the region 150 houses built out over the harbour. Quite and amazing experience and a reminder of the stilt houses of Hanuabada in Papua New Guinea.

On leaving the jetty, we then went for a further hair raising ride through the traffic. I’m sure that trishaws do have the right way but you really cannot describe the dodging in and out of traffic, cutting cars and motor bikes off. You have to ride in one of these things to experience it. We are so glad we had this experience as it is one life’s must do things. I know it’s man powered vehicle and so anachronistic in this modern age of political correctness but I’m sure there are far worse jobs in the third world than pedaling tourisst around for a few hours.

He then took us to fabulously restored home of a Chinese sea captain called Pinang Peranakan Mansion. This mansion has been restored it’s original glory and features original embroideries and furnishings form the house an is a wonderful example of late Victorian early Edwardian splandour. A lot of the artifacts are owned by the current owner and feature mainly Straits Chinese and Nonya tastes. Nonya is a a mixed race of Chinese and Malay heritage and therefore their food and traditions combine both cultures.

The entrance to the mansion cost a very reasonable RM10 and that price included a guide to point out the use of the rooms and was very good in helping us around. Many of the rooms are very ornate and some of the glass windows are exceptional. The furniture is predominately carved wood and I’m sure furniture of the style can show can still be purchased these days.

On completion of the tour we then taken through more back streets and main roads to the Komtar Building and we caught the bus back to Batu Feringghi (and if anyone knows how to spell this place please help, as there seems to be about 10 different variations on the name).

We then went to the night markets (again) and had wonderful local food at a hawker centre. If any ever tells you that the food is tainted at this stalls, watch them cook it, fresh and hot right in front of you. Eat and drink with the locals, although there as many tourists as locals in this centre.

Then came the bad news. We had heard on Wednesday night that some of the DVD sellers had been raided and their stock confiscated. We managed to get some DVDs that night but tonight there was not a DVD, watch, handbag or clothing vendor in sight. Obviously there had been a crackdown on counterfeit goods by the compliance police and the sellers had ducked for cover.

I have to say we have had a wonderful time on Penang and it’s a shame to see our 8 days here come to end. The Bayview Hotel, although situated at the end of 2km strip is a great place to stay and we would certainly come back again. The people are friendly, the rooms clean and exceptional value for money. So tomorrow it’s off to the ferry and off to Langkawi.

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