Mighty Melaka

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Melaka is Malaysia's most enigmatic city with a rich history of royal rule, Chinese influence and colonial domination that affected many of the vital ports on the Asian trade route. It is also known as the "gateway of Islam" into Malaysia - Indian muslim spice traders brought the religion, which is now adopted by the vast majority of Malays. The city's history is reflected in its architecture - a colourful array of Chinese, Indian and European colonial influence.

We spent a day of culture and education in Melaka's colonial centre and scenic Chinatown on Tommy's "Walking Tour of Melaka".

The colonial Melaka reflects the styles and ideas of the Dutch, Portuguese and the British, although each succeeding coloniser generally ransacked the preceding occupier's work. The Portuguese arrived first and thir presence is virtually all gone with only one remnant - a gate from the Portuguese fort "A Famosa". The Dutch obliterated everything else and erected what now remains as Melaka's town centre, the Stadthuys and Christ Church - an attempt to spread Christianity to the region was largely unsuccessful. Then the Brits arrived to kick out the Dutch East India Co - they weren't interested in spreading religion, only using Melaka's great influence and position in Asian trade. Malaysia finally got is independnce in 1957 - it's 50 years next year and throughout Malaysia, the government are advertising 2007 as the year to visit - maybe we should have gone home and come back when they were ready? When the state of Malayisa was formed, the peninsula and Malayan Borneo became part of the same nation (also Singapore but they soon after separated) and Sultan rule was reinstated, although in a powerless form much like our Queen - they got money so they were happy.

While the colonial struggle was going on, the Chinese were always around - the original settlers having often married Malay women to be known as Baba Nonya or later, Peranakan. We walked through the colourful streets of Chinatown (in the pouring rain again, with our colourful macs on) to visit grand and ancient temples, a narrow maze of streets and its charismatic, cluttered shophouses and clanhouses. Cheng Hoon temple is Malaysia's oldest Chinese temple - we paid it a visit and paid our respects.

So there you have it, Melaka (and Malaysia's) origin and history in a nutshell. The evening's entertainment in Melaka, has to be its "Sound & Light Show", which through some big coloured bulbs and a rather nationalistic commenatary over a big PA system, teaches you a biased version of the history of Melaka. Abi fell asleep, Laura laughed out loud only serving to muddy the already murky view of Brits, in these parts. Fortunately nobody was around, so we learnt of "Mighty Melaka" and its brave Malay warriors who courageously attacked and fought the colonial invaders but again for the 42nd time, they were defeated and had to flee and regroup ready for another assault on the evil rulers. For the record, Malay people are perfectly nice to us and the history has (almost) been forgiven but not forgotten.

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Photos

The Town Square
Sometimes known as Dutch Square.

The Light & Sound Show
Before Abi nodded off

Outside The Eng Choon Association
In the colourful macs again

Jalan Hang Kasturi
A typically narrow Chinatown street

St Pauls Church
A relic of the attempted Christianity movement

Porta De Santiago
The last remaining gate of the A Famosa Fort