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Published: August 6th 2006
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Amo a Laos We are in the People’s Democratic Republic of Laos. I love this country and so does Indie. We are not alone - there are many travellers here from all over. In spite of this, Laos remains the most peaceful, quiet country I have ever experienced. After the lively, frenetic noise of Vietnam and also Phnom Penh, this country is a relative oasis of calm. Even its capital, Vientiane, is the most laidback I have ever visited. By 9 or 10 at night the streets are deserted - nevertheless Indie and I did somehow contrive to attract the city’s weirdest people when darkness fell. We were walking home from dinner when it started to rain heavily. On our rush back to the hotel we were accosted by some transvestites. As we evaded their advances, a taxi driver in our path saw us walking towards him and shouted ‘taxi!’ We declined, but instead of backing off, he edged closer to us, looked fleetingly from side to side, and then illicitly whispered “marijuana?” We cracked up and continued on our way, until we were met by a policeman - they patrol Vientiane’s streets at night (looking for late-night revellers
maybe). He beckoned us over to speak with him. At least that’s what we thought he wanted, until he motioned for us to go off with a girl alongside him. Maybe he made a decent backhander every time she got customers…
Random experiences While in Vientiane we decided to visit a bizarre park full of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, aptly named ‘Buddha Park’. It was devised by a highly eccentric character who tried to merge Buddhist and Hindu philosophy. The result is strange, but cool.
On an overnight journey north, we abruptly stopped at 4am on the motorway. Oblivious to it all, I continued sleeping until 6, when it got light. Indie and I were stunned to witness a massive pile-up of buses and trucks, as far as the eye could see. With nothing else to do, we explored and found the cause of the pile-up - a truck carrying beer has crashed and flipped over, completely blocking the road. We later found out that the accident had happened the previous afternoon, and that some poor guys had been there for over 12 hours.
Apparently the driver escaped unharmed, but the aftermath of the
accident was a spectacular trail of shards of glass, plastic crates and (incredibly, still intact) bottles of beer. Some locals and backpackers (led by Brits and Ozzies) had helped themselves to the beers, and were visibly hammered by the time we arrived! Luckily we were only around 35 km from our destination, Luang Prabang, so we traversed the truck and walked 5km before a pick-up truck taxied us the rest of the way.
Languid Luang Prabang We’ve now been in and around this town - a UNESCO-protected site (much to Indie’s ire) - for four days, and we’ll stay another couple. The region emanates an intoxicating, charming calm. Local people are warm and open-minded. We’ve been talking to several Lao people - from café owners to tour guides to monks. It’s been cool to learn a few Lao phrases, and to try the local food. Which is delicious, by the way. We like laap - a salad of minced meat mixed with lime juice, mint leaves (sometimes basil and coriander too), garlic, green onions and chillies. You eat it with sticky rice - a staple here.
Luang Prabang town is dotted with attractive wats, elegantly-preserved French
architecture and street markets. Orange-clad monks abound, and there are good places to eat and drink. It’s located between two rivers, and the surrounding countryside is beautiful.
It’s amazing how the people you meet can change your perception, and memory, of a place you visit. Indie and I have been lucky to meet some sound people here, including a Dutch couple, Auke and Carola, and a couple from Edinburgh - Duncan and Jenni. Together, we all visited the Kuang Si waterfall, where we climbed a hill, saw a young tiger and swam under the falls.
Last night we got back from a two-day trek through some remote indigenous villages. We were in a small group comprised of me, the token brown man (who was unbelievably mistaken for a Lao!), a Parisian cartoonist and his biologist girlfriend, and two Israeli guys who had recently finished the national service. We were led by two guides - Bhat, a brash, gregarious womaniser; and his diminutive, jolly sidekick, Pon. Indie likened them to Batman and Robin! They led us across mountainous terrain, through forests and alongside rice-paddies. We saw some small villages with no running water or electricity, and we waded through
river after river after river. The trekking wasn’t too arduous, but at times the trail was no more than a mudbath!
We stayed at one of the indigenous villages, where Indie impressed the locals with his photos. After dinner we got talking to the Israelis - Arnon and Asaf - two adventurous, outgoing guys. (“Which part of Israel are you guys from?” “The bombed part!”). We were soon joined by Bhat, who boasted that he had a girlfriend in every village. The dirty sailor! Soon more and more locals arrived to sit with us around some candles. We drunk Lao whisky (potent) and an urn full of a strange, beer-like ‘home brew’ through bamboo straws. Fuelled by the brew, Pon - a self-proclaimed historian - regaled us with his version of Laos’s history. Maybe it was just cause of the whisky I’d drunk, but it seemed more like mythology he was telling us. Our romeo guide, Bhat, insisted that we all sing songs in our own language, which was fun. He was mad about ‘Stand by Me’!
In short, the trek was a great experience.
Entering China We are about to leave a small,
landlocked Communist country of less than six million people. We are about to enter the world’s most populous country - a vast, ‘Communist’ superpower of 1.6 billion. I guess it’s like moving from a tiny, far-flung village in the Western Isles to Picaddilly Circus. I can’t wait. As much as I am enjoying the unexpected calm of Laos, I am fascinated by China. Indie, having just spent a year living there, is also excited about our move north.
Just as I am having to brush up on my Russian in the next 3 weeks, Indie will get to practice his impressive Mandarin once again. On another note, I am slightly worried abut my travelling companion, who is rapidly becoming a massageaholic. We got a couple of massages in Southern Laos and then in Vientiane, and Indie has since developed a one-a-day habit. I am constantly trying to dissuade him from temptation, as his eyes light up at the plethora of massage advertisements you see here. Unfortunately, the regular fix of calming massage vibes has diluted his firebrand political views for this week….
Next time I write, I am going to be in China. Bring it on!
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Leon>G
non-member comment
You are some man!
Ian my friend...I too have enjoyed reading your blog! Although Kerry does at times read it, I am slowly becoming engrossed! Simply out of interest, what language did the monk at the bottom speak? Also, I bet you the food is INCREDIBLE! Gracias por la pasta antes! ciao hermano (: