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For four Journey’s there has been a travelling soul that has been in me wanting to find adventure, wanting to discover new things, new cultures. That soul has enjoyed nearly every possible moment. But here in Central Asia that soul was gradually drained of life. Hence for the first time ever, I pulled the pin and got a flight outta here. My last stop was the Kazakhstan former capital Almaty.
One thing about football is that it can indicate where a country is looking towards. All the Stan countries play in the Asian confederation because they see themselves as Asians. Kazakhstan on the other hand sees themselves and look towards Europe hence they play in UEFA. This means it can be expensive for Asian standards. Hotels are limited with the cheapest costing about $20 with no shower.
The end of April means the parks have many Tulips flowering. At Panfilov Park there’s Zenkov Cathedral. It is entirely made of wood including the nails and one of the last Tsarist buildings in the city. But that really is all of any interest. Again too late for the nearby ski field and too early to trek properly.
Still Almaty is
the first place in Central Asia that had a slight resemblance of a city and life… but not much. Sure there are people and cars going by, but its missing a lot of valuable words in its vocabulary that makes life great. Fun, Laughter, Smile, Trust.
Central Asia has been the most culturally empty place I have ever been to. I’m not sure if I heard one person laugh. On my Friday night I went out to ‘Da Freak’ supposedly the best nightclub in Almaty. About $17 entry. That seemed worth it, as the women of Almaty are some of the hottest women I have seen in the world. A great mixture of Russian and that Mongolian type look. Whoever thought of that concoction generations ago had foresight.
The nightclub had 2 dancefloors with the cheapest drink anything with vodka in it. A New Zealand guy and I went to a bar earlier and paid $9 for a beer. On the dance floor it was a dull affair with pretty lifeless dancing. And not one person dancing with anyone. It seems like these people don’t know how to have fun - I had to drink my way to
enjoyment.
People have commented to me that I sometimes smile to myself when I am drained in my own thoughts. Well that happened here, more than once and police looked at me as if to indicate, that it is foreign to us and we can’t have that here.
I have been telling people if you want to experience the personalities and life of Central Asian people put yourself into a Metro train at peak hour time. Have a look around at the gloomy expressionless faces. Do that all day and live it for almost 3 months... I don’t think anyone here has any wrinkles.
As well as that this area really lacks the ability to trust anyone. There seems to be a fear even with the locals. There are so many police pulling over cars for what seems no reason. It must be the soviet mentality that is still in practise. Over populate with police than the civilians will eventually come into line if it means the police will stop hassling you.
It is a very mucho environment, which eventually almost made me lose it. I was trying to get my Uzbekistan VISA and to do that.
War Memorial
at Paniflov parkYou have to get there early to put your name down than get back at 2pm to wait your turn… I waited 6 hours because the guards were looking for a bribe. That was the final straw for me. We were waiting outside with no toilet like peasants. (I had already paid $35 to process a Letter of Invitation, which took 2 weeks). Eventually I left without seeing anyone. I did do some other things whilst waiting but not much. I started thinking of other places in the world that I could be spending my time. F--K these countries!
My first 5 minutes in Almaty I was walking to my accommodation when a guy I didn’t trust dropped a wallet, picks it up and shows me the contents full of cash. He tries to start a conversation of which I back off and say, “It’s your lucky day! Take it! I don’t give a shit about the money.” See a friend would come along and then say it was his and there was more money in it, meaning I’d be robbed. So I got out of that easily but shit you have to be switched on all the time
here. And because there are no tourist here - especially now - the targeted robbing and police check over’s (at least on me) has been beyond belief.
But what started worrying me is that I was on the verge of exploding. I’ve got no idea what I would do and what would happen but I didn’t want to find out. At the Uzbek Embassy I flipped a coin based on if they allow me to change the Letter of invitation dates (another story) if they don’t allow it should I stay or should I go? I flipped the coin and it can down as… leave. I was so happy and when I flipped the coin again during a Skype conversation with my sister and David it was set. I was meant to leave on the next available flight.
I had to wait an extra day to board my flight from Almaty airport. So that gave me one last day to walk the streets and I have to give Almaty credit, on the streets the police didn’t hassle me. They are everywhere though and after around 2 months in Central Asia and 3 weeks in Iran I was just
Zenkov Cathedral
Paniflov Park - Had the happiest priests ever so jolly. in full voice expecting them to come over.
At 5:25am at the airport I noticed my flight was delayed by 2 hours. This gave an opportunity for the militia to check me over 4 times in an attempt to receive a bribe. Most of the time it is based on the assumption that I am American. Every time I got stopped I was asked “You America!” (This is not a question this is excitement)
At baggage check the guy points “Oh there is something showing. You have to take it over there. You American!” The guy didn’t have a clue what he was looking at. I went around his side and said “What are you talking about it’s a CD.” Still over I went and the other guy saw my backpack and that was too difficult for him to contemplate opening so he said I could go. (Gotta love the look and design of backpacks). I also got patted down than asked, “Tip? Bribe? Yes!” at the conveyer belt. I told him to “FUCK OFF!” That was after a long wait at passport check asking if I am “American!” Felt like saying, “Look at the fucking passport that is your job you
idiot!” But bit my tongue. Also got a thorough check of my ticket at the steps to the plane.
And this is Central Asia’s problem, its landscape is something special especially Tajikistan which is what made this part of the trip worthwhile. But there is a national pride problem in all these countries. I have to question. How can a nation be proud of themselves when it’s the police are its problem? I looked at the officers and most of them don’t look the smartest tool in the shed (subtle joke there). How can its people be proud of their nation when they employ idiots as there authority? I think these guys love the back… everything back. When they were at school they would sit out the back. When they were on the bus they’d bully their way to the back. And now in there adult lives they love sending there country backwards.
My taxi driver to the airport said he didn’t like the movie Borat “it is not our country.” He seemed embarrassed. I replied, “Well have you ever thought that it is a great opportunity to promote your country. Most people didn’t know who Kazakhstan was.
So many other countries would love to have the coverage Kazakhstan has had from that movie. Your country now has a chance to promote themselves properly and be noticed. So many other countries in the world would never get that opportunity.” But he didn’t seem to agree with that. Instead I think the drilling by the police on the locals has create a Doom is Glee mentality. This is why I needed to get out before it became infectious.
And where would I go to regain my travelling soul… Where it all began in 2003… Istanbul.
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ima
non-member comment
kazakhstan
I really sorry for your trip comments! You haven`t got any idea about kazakhstan! You are one of the most boring person i ever seen that`s why you`ve got all those dull emotions! when i read your story i even can see how you were trying to get a fun all over the world,but unfortunately its impossible,you are dull inside! We don`t need any promotions from your stupid Borat at all ! We have alot of things to be promoted and we will use it then will decide we need that! Why you think that we need that? why you think that we are proud of our authority ,we are trying to change this system!While you are living in the country which has a goverment,who makes their people stupid and dull just to control them! Our contries had a long history of sorrows and wars,thats why we have no reason to smile,it is a genetik inheretage,then you are always a reason of some war,but somethere,not on the territory of your contry! One more thing,you`ve been in the cheapest night club,by the way!