Me and me 6 years ago

Its rare for me to see this landscape so green, usually the vegetation can seem like a starving African kid. In oppressive heat, thirsty as hell and not knowing where the next drink will come from. But a recent avalanche of rainfall created a rejuvenation of life. The once grey stiff branches and harsh leaves started to relax for now. The rocky hard-nosed earth could be reassured that the soils soul has changed. On my last few days here I felt a similar change. My blood pressure dropped I felt a rejuvenated - Central Asia was behind me.

I arrived in Istanbul as a means to get to Syria and the Middle East. As mentioned previously, 6 years ago Turkey was the first place outside Australia I have ever been to by myself. The reason for that was ANZAC Day, a Gallipoli pilgrimage that has to be done once. This time round I arrived a few days after ANZAC Day intending to do a comparison on a few things from yesteryear. I wanted to know after 3 ½ Journeys can my novice opinions of 6 years ago change to my opinions now? I had some great experiences last time but can revisiting destinations spoil those experiences?

The airport and transport into the city was all smooth run but with no guidebook for the Middle East I had to use my memory to find Sultanahmet - the main backpacker street. I didn’t stay there last time but walked by there a few times. I noticed stepping off the tram that the main old town of Istanbul has changed a lot. It feels even more touristy, more restaurants more tourists and that didn’t bother me. I meet the NZ guy again from Almaty later on in southern Turkey and he was like me. “When I arrived in Istanbul I was like “Yes! Tourist!”

After a brief downpour when I was lost, the rain stopped when I found my accommodation. I was planning on seeing some of what impressed me last time but Turkey has doubled in price since 2003. Entry is either $10-20 for anything. The only thing that hasn’t changed is the Blue Mosque, which is free. On the outside both the Blue Mosque and Ayia Sophia still impresses but inside the Blue Mosque I was “Agh…” This is most likely the first mosque majority of westerners see from the inside, it was mine 6 years ago. But after Iran it’s nice but nothing in comparison.

One of the great things when revisiting a place years on is that you can revisit your first thoughts on travel and imagine your novice self-walking around. I think now I would be unrecognisable. Back then I had short hair, was fitter, stronger but not as wise. 6 years ago I went to a restaurant and a 12 year old kid promised me he would give me Troy beer with my meal. It was the only beer I hadn’t tried in Turkey and it was my last night. He would always pour my beer out the back… It was not Troy beer. I caught him out after a while and to this day I remember his face. (No I don’t hold many grudges. To me a garudge is only a place to park your car!) Today Troy beer is no more but that 12 year old kid is now a young adult working at the same corner restaurant with his father in Sultanahmet. I ate there again and didn’t fall for any shit. I think that was the last time I allowed a kid to bullshit me.

Food was one of the main enjoyments to Turkey and the best ever meatballs I have ever had was at a restaurant in Kusadesi near Ephesus one of the greatest ruins I have ever seen. So to break up the journey south I thought I’d revisit.

First things first food - Previously indoors, the restaurant has been refurbished and produced the most disappointing meal in a while. See Kusadesi is a port city and like most Turkish coastal cities is dominated by the British tourist. This means the restaurant owners don’t have to try anymore to satisfy tastebuds. It wasn’t until I went inland to the Syrian border that I had a decent flavoured Turkish meal. Although Fethiye’’s fish market was good 5 times over but even that was westernised.

What I found interesting is that at home you here this paranoia that we have to be careful about the Muslims they are getting too big, they may take over but when you come to this area. A Muslim country, Turkey a proud nation and it felt nothing like it. It feels like the UK under the sun. This is probably why a lot of people in Turkey are against going to the EU. Which has been an issue for years now. People must look at places like here and say this is not us?

Each day a port city will receive either one or two boatloads of cruise ship tourists. Mostly British, in Kusadesi the once one street bars and restaurants have expanded. I went out a couple of nights after pre drinking my prior purchased black label Bacardi, as drinks were pretty expensive. Music is ordinary so before I went to the bars I wondered around the alleyways and came across the last remaining Turkish life. Near the port it was a small room with 4 instruments playing and one Raki’d up local singing his heart out and 4 local customers. Brilliant!

Once they finished I thought I am pissed now so I went to a bar where the local workers try and sleaze their way into a British ladies (?) pants. As the night wore on I observed something I thought was funny. You know the difference to Australian women drunk and British women drunk? The Australian girl knows she’s smashed but can still have a good time. Whilst the British girl doesn’t know she is smashed and prances around as if she is sexy. Drunken British women trying to be sexy… Just doesn’t work.

I was about to go to Ephesus when I noticed I had dirt in my camera so with that there was no point going there. I’d already seen it and I was over with the comparisons. I decided to go to Fethiye I heard it was nice. 2 days of downpour changed to a few days of bright sunshine. Good enough to go on a cruise full of British packaged tourists for a day. I was with a brother and sister from Melbourne. We waited 75 minutes in the blazing sun waiting to leave on the top and there was not one complaint. British in the sun, they are so happy! I thought the trip was just okay but I will be in Greece soon and the landscape and water is very much the same so it was time to move on and see something new.

Revisiting Turkey has reconfirmed that I have to enjoy the now because the now may never be there again. If I were to ever do Turkey again I would go into Eastern Turkey. The west coast is not an indication of the real Turkey. It did however allow me to put Central Asia behind me and despite the on and off rain it rejuvenated me for the next 4 months.

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