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Published: June 20th 2015
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Shinjuku side street
I didn't go to the robot restaurant. I found cheap tickets from Pittsburgh to Tokyo via Toronto on Air Canada (who still offers a teacher discount) so I decided to stop in Japan for ten days on my way to Australia and New Zealand.
I can't recommend Tokyo enough -- it would be worth going to Japan for only a few days even if you only got to experience the capital.
I flew into Haneda, the smaller of the two airports, which is also closer to the city center. Transit from there was fairly simple and most signs included accurate English translations and directions, but it would be a good idea for anyone to study the extensive train system a bit beforehand. And all you need is a confused expression to ensure plenty of locals asking if you need help. The metro is cheap enough and I enjoyed using the system more than the JR (Japan Rail) monorail lines that I used once I activated my rail pass (which is absolutely worth buying, for the sake of cost and convenience). I went to Nui Hostel (see review at bottom)– in the Asakusa district - and slept.
During a midnight convenience store dinner (which offer food
Asakusa bridges
Surprising quietude as good as most Japanese restaurants in the U.S.) on the Sumida River I was surprised to see plenty of locals running on the river trail at that hour... but then, in a city of 30 some million, I suppose all sorts of people are doing all sorts of things at all sorts of strange hours. I'd never imagined Japan having many rivers, but every city I visited had one, with shaped stone walls and riverbeds and paved walking trails on both sides. This seemingly endless walking and running trail (no bikes allowed) made it worth staying in the Asakusa area, which is a couple of metro stops from more interesting areas.
Tokyo is strangely peaceful for being double the size of NYC. The Japanese seem to share my aversion for loud noise; as such, the cars are quiet and efficient hybrids, and people never honk. Signals for crosswalks, subway arrivals and door closures, and elevators are pleasant Nintendo-esque jingles. Taxi doors (and toilet seats, for that matter) close automatically, and nearly silently. Even in areas where advertisements, arcades, and pachinko halls reign, it's a delicate cacophony of pleasant sounds.
I did a long run in the AM
Akihabara
This is the main road in the electronics district. There would be more pedestrian accidents from people looking up while walking if the Japanese didn't unfailingly stop at crosswalks. and then wandered around the Asakusa / Kuramae district. There is a touristy shrine (redundant?) nearby with loads of shops and snacks.
About a km away is Akihabara, the main electronics area in Tokyo. I only spent a couple of hours here browsing stores and playing video games, but it's worth a half a day- more if you're into gaming. Just walking through the arcades and seeing grown men trying to grab dolls and toys with the claw is entertainment enough.
Another must-visit district is Shinjuku, which I'd wanted to visit since seeing Lost in Translation years ago. One would think signs would lose their effectiveness when there are so many- I'm glad I didn't need to find anything specific. Though it's absolutely packed with people, it's still orderly and clean. There must be more restaurants in a few blocks than in all of Pittsburgh.
Harajuku, the youthful fashion area, is fun to walk around as well... Girls are dolled up in a way that seems contrived but that I suppose is authentic.
Tokyo Hostels
I spent the first night at Hostel Nui, a pretty western abode by any standard, with a chic, hipsterish bar with
broad windows looking out to the street. It is a comfortable room to relax and have pricey beers and is the best thing about the hostel. The rooms are fine but you have to punch in a 7-digit code to enter, which can be dangerous if you have to wake up to use the bathroom.
The second night there was no availability at Nui so I had to change to nearby Anne's Hostel. This one is much more traditional- no shoes, floor seats, etc. It is safe, clean and comfortable- I recommend both.
There are more photos below.
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