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Published: June 10th 2008
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How to enjoy Tokyo on a budget of under 1000 yen.
Todays Destination: Harajuku
There are 2 ways to travel to Harajuku - the JR or the metro - I prefer the JR because not only does it drop you right at the entrance to Takeshita street but it's also the line that I always use to get out to the lady pub friendly zone of Nishi Kawaguchi.
The first thing to do upon arrival at Harajuku is look at the crowds and say "Holy Fu*k" followed quickly by "Pardon me" or "Excuse me" because nearly everyone around you will be a foreigner (predominantly American) and will recognise your foul language.
While waiting for your friend to arrive listen in to some nearby Amercians conversing over a lonely planet, the conversation should go something like this;
Boy 1: I can't read this thing - I don't understand it
Boy 2: Well, this is Japan man
All three look in a confused manner at the hundreds of people crossing the road and taking photos at the Takeshita Street entrance Boy 3: Maybe thats it?
Boy 2: You think THATS Harajuku
Boy 3: Well, I don't know.... maybe.... there's a lot of people going there
Boy 1: Doesn't look like much to me
Boy 2: Yeah no way am I going into that man... Total claustrofu*k
Boy 1: Yeah total claustrofu*k
Boy 3: But we came here to see Harjuku!
Boy 1: Well maybe thats not Harajuku
Boy 3: Well what does the guidebook say
Boy 1: I don't know it doesn't make sense!
etc etc
Perhaps throw Boy 3 a sympathetic look and indicate with your eyes that he should ditch his friends and cross the road into Takeshita street, then look away when Boy 3 smiles and winks at you and you realise he clearly thinks your support of him crossing the road into Harajuku is some kind of invitation for raunchy harajuku themed sex. Not likely.
Squeal with delight as your friend (Jane in my case) runs up to hug you and drags you away from eavesdropping on any more stupid conversation. Cross the road to the Takeshita street entrance and throw yourself into the throng. Spend the next hour or so lassooing each other with feather boas, trying on manga costumes, silently contemplating steel tipped leather whips, trying to get away from the sweet talking africans wanting to sell you everything from hiking boots to panties, wondering whats inside the White Trash Head Office Building and taking photos of everything from the drag queens to the school girls, the Goths and the strawberry shortcake Harajuku girls.
Time to spend part of your hard earned cash. Take a left and head down a nameless street which I have nicknamed Crepe n Cream Lane. True to its unofficial name it is stocked from wall to wall with Crepe vendors offering every type of crepe under the sun. Pick any of them - they're all good, I was in a sweet mood from the strawberry themed Harajuku Girls and picked strawberry, banana, ice Cream and whipped cream. Walk slowly back towards the station moaning with delight while you devour this delicious culinary delight.
Upon reaching the JR entrance, take a left and head up towards the thin blue pedestrian bridge crossing over the roads, take a right when you reach the bridge and welcome to the the best dress up party of your life. This bridge leading towards Yoyogi Park is the meeting place for the various teens who dress up every weekend in various themes of Gothic Lolita, Ganguro, Manga, Gyaru, and Kogal. Wander around and take a few photos - try to be either respectful or discreet though, a lot of them don't like having their photos taken (And after my weekend at the palace the other week I do know how they feel).
Spend as long as you like wandering around here, there's so much to see and some of the costumes will blow your mind away.
Two more things to do while you're wandering around on the bridge: Shake your head at the white girls trying to be all japanese and dressed up - they look ridiculous and aren't liked by anyone - gaijin or Japanese. They have the nickname Wapanese, short for wannabe-japanese.
The other thing to do is have a free hug from one of the Japanese men standing to the side. They'll enjoy it, you'll enjoy it and you're friend will enjoy taking photos of you getting hugged whilst refusing to hug anyone herself as there are no cute ones.
Time for a break, as you're on a budget hopefully you will have bought lunch with you and you can head into Yoyogi Park to relax, eat, drink and avoid the homeless men.
If you feel like having a walk after lunch you can head up to Togo shrine - but like me, you may want to save it for a different Sunday when you're more cashed up as every second week at the shrine they hold a market which is reputed as being one of the best flea markets in Tokyo (I'll let you know what I think when I get there)
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