Motorbiking Lombok

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So after the volcano experience, Ben and I headed over to Senggigi a tourist hotspot on the western side of Lombok. Our first priority was to find a place to stay and have a shower. Shotgun shower, we both say at the same time. When sharing a room you find fair ways of determining who gets what bed, and who gets dibs on the shower first and such. Ben conceded the shower to me as he had to organize some details for his return to Bali the next day. After showering we headed next door to a place called Marina's. I think its one of the more popular night scenes in town. They always have live music, a TV was playing a football game, and if you buy a pizza you get one small beer free. But the deals get better, if you buy three beers you get two more free. So it was obvious what had to happen, a pizza each and 7 beers later we sat and watched the football game. They thought of everything there, they even put the extra beers in a big tub full of ice. The band (from Bali) which plays almost every night is really good and is comprised of 8 people, four of them play the instruments and the other four take turns singing. Who ever can sing the requested song the best takes center stage. They can do most songs and sound like the actual band, during some songs, if you didn’t see that they were playing you would think it was a CD. It was Ben and my last night out together as he couldn’t convince me to go to Australia “just for a beer” he says. I would like to go to Aus one day however its hard on the budget compared to South East Asia.

The next morning Ben catches his bus to the Ferry and I head out to rent a motorbike, hit the internet, and figure out what to do for my next ten days in Indonesia. I ended up deciding to throw my big bag on the motorbike and see rural Lombok. I had to borrow a Guide book for Indonesia as the South East Asia on a Shoestring doesn’t have much detail for Lombok, and I think it only dedicates 10 pages, mostly for Senggigi and the Gile Islands. It turns out that there are only a few towns that have hotels, so I had to plan my days around ending in these towns, and preferably before dark. Another challenge was to find out where there would be ATM’s. Turns out there are only a few cities with this luxury as well. For reference the towns with ATM’s are - Senggigi, Masbagk, Praya, Mataram, and Selong. So with everything sorted out I headed out first thing the next morning.

Ok, so for starters there is no speed limits, or at least not that I was aware of, and everyone is driving at different speeds, some really slow, and others really fast, so passing and being passed is inevitable. Secondly the roads are narrow and windy. Driving takes a little getting used to as quite often you will have oncoming traffic in your lane because they are passing someone or something going the other way, it is your responsibility to get into the shoulder should this happen. Being on a motorbike means that a car can pass another car and you heading the other way at the same time. Also you can do the same, if there is a slow moving car, (or most often a horse and cart!) and there is oncoming motorbikes, its ok to use there lane, and they will just hug the shoulder. Of course I started out being one of the slow drivers, only passing when clear, and basically driving as I would in Canada. But after a few days, you become used to the flow and start doing what everyone else is doing. (I’ll probably need driving lessons when I return home) Another funny thing about driving in Lombok is that they seldom use signal lights, or forget to turn them off. So everyone honks the horn when they are about to pass, or they want to let you they are there. I got used to using the horn as well. Some of the other hazards are potholes, horseshit, and chickens running out into the road. Now I know where the age old joke comes from, (Why did the chicken cross the road?) Probably to mess with the tourist!

I decided to head clockwise around the island, as I had already been on some of the road that way from my trip to the volcano. It was good to drive a semi familiar road to start with. I made my way from Senggigi through Bangsal passed Anyar (this is as far as I had been) and onto Sembalun Lawang where I planned to spend my first night. The drive itself was amazing, the scenery was very nice, and along the way I would stop at local roadside stalls for petrol, and snacks. The people at the roadside stand were always very friendly, and some spoke limited English, but it was easy to make do, as I would point to what I needed and they would say in Indonesian what it was. So I was slowly learning some phrases. It seamed that they don’t get very many tourists in the north, mostly just people going to do the Volcano trek, and they usually take taxi’s or minivans. The windows are usually tinted so the locals don’t see very many of the few that do go there. So when ever I would stop, it would start out there would be only two people at this roadside stand, and before I left there would usually be a crowd. Usually someone who had taken English in school would arrive and try and practice it, as they don’t get much opportunity to practice there English with native English speakers. Most tourists in the area are Dutch and French, not that they don’t speak good English to though.

A few times I had little kids poke my skin, and scurry off behind their parents or older siblings, that’s when I realized how few tourist stop in these area’s. While driving, if kids or even some adults seen me coming, would wave, and point me out to their friends, yelling “Hello mister” and being really friendly. Almost everyone I saw along the road in the north would wave, smile or call out “Hello” as I drove by. I tried to say Hello back as often as possible and waved almost every time. However after a few hours of this it starts to get a little annoying, I still loved how pleasant the people were, I was just getting tiered of the same waving and hello’s after a while.

When I did stop, the questions were always, Where are you from? What is your name? Where are you going? Where have you been? Are you alone? Where are your friends? Are you married? WHY NOT? (Good answer was No Woman No Cry) They know Bob Marley. Sometimes they would ask “You want Indonesian wife?” I would say no thanks and smile, they would then say something like White girls are prettier, or ask if I not like Indonesian girl? I would always say … no no Indonesian girl very pretty!! Just no woman no cry. That always sufficed.

So during my first day I had stopped at many roadside stands, and would only buy a little from each one, my thoughts were to spread the money around a bit, and also that way I could meet more of the local people. I ended up finding a little restaurant along one stretch of beach in the very north, I tried some of the local food, (mostly because that’s all there was! I’m not going to lie, I’m a picky eater) I ended up having some freshly caught fish, and some sort of vegetable dish. The fish was served cold, and already had some little ants crawling over it, Ok I said to myself, this isn’t so bad? I did eat it all and it was good. I believe that they cook the fish right after its caught, and that it waits until someone buys it later that day. (Or at least I hope it was that day!!) I didn’t get sick so all is well. After 7 hours on the motorbike and dozens of stops, I arrived in Sembalun Lawang. After asking someone where there was a “Losman” Indonesian for Hotel, I found a place to stay. It was actually one of the cleanest places I had stayed within the last few weeks. After checking in I headed into the village, were without a doubt I was the only tourist. I saw a village verses village football match, I bought a sprite and watched that for about 5 minutes, and then found myself surrounded by curious locals, all asking the same questions I previously mentioned. I tried to learn some more Indonesian, and some of the locals spoke some broken English. I ended up hanging out there for about an hour, and was invited to play volleyball for a bit, which I was happy to do. They use their heads a lot when playing volleyball, maybe it’s a carry over from playing football. They can actually pass quite well with there heads too, and your arms don’t get sore. Back at my hotel I met another set of tourists, a guy from England and his Taiwanese wife. They are the only other two during my whole journey, which were also doing it on a motorbike. I visited them for a bit and headed to bed early.

The second day I started heading south along the east side of Lombok, This was by far my favorite part of the drive, the area is all mountainous and there was lots of good views. The area is really green and had some huge trees and the valleys are dotted with little farming communities. The couple I had met the night before told me of these hot springs half way between Sembalun Lawang and Lemor, so I decided they would be neat to see. There was a little sign along the road that said; Hot springs 2KM with an arrow pointing up to a walking trail going up into the mountain. I stopped and debated it for a bit, I was mostly concerned about leaving my backpack on the bike while I trekked to these springs. I ended up taking with me, I walked about 100 meters into the bush and being the only one there opted to hide it 50 feet off the trail behind a big tree, (great decision) I then hike the 2 km to the hot springs. I was thinking I would probably be the only one there, however I was horribly wrong. I was the only tourist there, however there were about 20 locals all crowded into this little spring, and all bewildered that I had showed up. The ladies quickly covered up, and I visited with some of the locals not in the water for an hour before heading back to the bike. On the way back I was lucky to see black monkeys; I had seen hundreds of the grey ones already. I couldn’t get a photo though as they were way up the trees and moving around a lot.

I then headed down the road for a couple of hours and ended seeing a big parade tryouts for Indonesia Independence day which is on August 17, only 63 years without colonial rule. I ended up buying some ice-cream for a couple of local girls who chatted with me as we watched the parade go by. ( I’m kicking myself for not taking any photos of the parade) Basically there are no floats or cars, it’s just a bunch of kids from different schools all dressed up in their school uniforms, marching and doing little sidesteps and blowing some whistles. Neat to see. Afterwards I headed to Tete Batu. It’s a little mountain village just on the other side of the volcano I trekked. The area is very green and they get more water than most of Lombok, as there are little mountain springs everywhere. The area is surrounded by rice fields, and tobacco fields. The attraction there is two waterfalls and a monkey forest. (At least that’s why I originally headed there) After checking in to a hotel (which I thought was clean) I drove around a bit on my bike to see the area. Just down the road there was a badminton court setup and some locals playing. I stopped and started to watch, barraged by the same questions, I visited with them for a bit. They then invited me to play; doubles is the only way they play there. So my partner “Muz” and I played a game against two others. We totally destroyed the other team. They all thought that I was pretty good; I thought I was ok, but they were also very good, I mean they should be, that’s all they do. On a side note Indonesia took gold in Men’s Doubles in Badminton in the Olympics. (Its one of there national sports).

Later that night, I head back to my room, and start to notice some disturbing things about my room. First of all, there are these small mushrooms growing right off the wall, OK that’s not so bad, Then I see that the bathroom is covered in ants (I hate ants) OK, relax I tell myself, your in rural Indonesia you should expect such things. Then I move my pillow and a bunch of small little bugs scurry off the bed, now I’m not happy. I go over to the door to see if I can get a different room, and that’s when I see these weird ass looking frogs stacked up in the corner, that does it, I’m out. I talked to the hotel guy, and he apologizes and shows me a much better room. (This is the hotel where Intrepid tours stay when they come to see the waterfalls and monkey forest). Ok so I stay there for the night, and go to the restaurant and order some food. They have a pool table (missing #2 ball) and a local asks if I want to play. So after beating him three games in a row, and eating I head off to bed. (It was actually amazing that I was winning in pool as I usually play horrible, but that night I was playing great). (I don’t think Ben will believe this).

On my way back to my room the hotel guy tries to tell me that in order to see the waterfalls you need to have a guide, (they always tell you this and its seldom true) I tell him that I’ll just be doing it by myself, and he’s saying that if I don’t hire a guide from the hotel that it’ll be way more expensive to get a guide there. I tell him it’s OK, and that I don’t need a guide, I then explain that I have been to these parks before in other parts of Lombok, and that I’m not just a day tourist. He then realizes that I do know what I’m talking about and then tries to sell it from a different angle. He then changes the story to its better to go from the hotel as you get to walk through the rice fields and if I drive there I can’t see the rice fields the same way. OK probably true, but his price is still too high. By the end of the conversation his price had come down about half, but because he had been lying to me I decided not to go with him. I then went for another quick ride on the bike to get some water for the night. At the store I met another guy asking what my plans are for tomorrow, I explain that I plan on going to the waterfalls and such alone, he spoke good English and said that it would be good, however, he said, “if you get a guide and walk through the rice fields its a lot nicer, and he explained that he guides there once and a while and used to work at this other hotel. His price was good, and because he didn’t try and mislead me I decided to book through him, he had also told me that the hotels take you there and back, and that he likes to take people on a round trip so that you see more. 7:00am he said, I thought OK, but how about 10:00am, he then let me know about the heat, he said if we leave earlier, we can be back by noon, and not in such heat, (Good Call), 7:00am it is.

The next morning we headed out, for a walk along the rice fields, and as he had promised it was amazing, the ladies were out working in the fields, kids where bathing and swimming in the water channels, and my guide (Wildon) seamed to know almost everyone. He knew a lot about the area, pointing out all sorts of tree's and plants along the way, and he told me about some of the ways of life around Tete Batu. The waterfalls (Air Terjun Jukek) themselves were nice, but the walk there and back was by far the best part. One highlight along the way was seeing some black monkeys, as they are very rare. We arrived back in the village just after 12:00 and Wildon invited me into his home for some traditional Lombok coffee, and his wife had me us a noddle and mushroom soup, which I accepted, and despite how it looked (the mushrooms that is) it was very delicious. I had mentioned to Wildon that I had to drive back down to Masbagik to go the ATM machine. He offered to take me right after his 1:00pm prayer (Muslim) and that we could see another set of waterfalls on the way back, he had been such a good guide so far that I took him up on the offer. He drove us down to Masbagik and I did my banking and then across the street I had seen some Badminton Birdies. So I bought a whole tube of them, 45,000 Rupia, very expensive for locals to buy, but they are the real ones with the feathers. We then headed for the other set of waterfalls. The other falls (Air Terjun Joben) are really small, and include a public swimming pool, and a side area to go into the falls which the locals believe help hair growth and that it very good for the skin. It was a little cold out, so no-one else was there, I don't know if the water actually does anything for your skin, but why not give it a try.

Afterwards we headed back to Tete Batu, Wildon invited me in again for another coffee. We talked a bit then I checked into a new hotel called Soedjono, where they promised hot water, wow thats a luxury I have been missing without realizing it. (And since have been missing it deeply). After a shower and a shave (maybe that waterfall was good for the hair growth), I headed back to the badminton courts to visit the locals and hopefully play some more badminton. Both ended up occurring very quickly, and they where very grateful that I had brought new birdies. They were telling me how most tourists that come to the falls only drive by in taxi's and never come out to the village, and that I was one of the first that actually wanted to visit with them aside from a hello as I passed by. I thought this was rather unfortunate as the locals there were very pleasant and loved to laugh and joke (although some jokes where lost on me). Two of the boys “Muz” and “Hir” asked if I would talk with them after dinner so that they could practice there English. Of the whole village they were currently the only two attending University as it is very expensive for them. We met after dinner at my hotel and talked for about two hours, it was very insightful and I probably learned more from them than they from me.
We talked about how marriage works in their village, how the economy goes, what I do for work, and all sorts of other topics. That was a very memorable experience.

After thoroughly visiting Tete Batu, I headed southbound after many goodbyes, (turns out I couldn't sneak away that easily). I headed for Kuta, a small beach town in the very south, but I took the long way along the eastern beaches. The drive was nice, but not as good as through the mountainous area's. The south is a lot more dry and the people didn't seam as friendly. Don't get me wrong they still were, but I think that because there is no rain much of the year there, that they are a lot poorer, and maybe see me more as the “Rich White Man”. I didn't get nearly as many waves, although still a few, but as I had explained earlier, I was getting a little tiered of the whole waving to everyone thing. Just before arriving in Kuta there is a little Susak traditional village in which I stopped at to see. It was only a little interesting as you could tell it was highly touristic. On the way out one of the guides tried to tell me that Kuta was all booked up (its another Surfing destination) and that I could stay in the traditional village if I liked. I explained that I would take my chances, as I have this line before. Then he acted as if I was crazy for not believing him. Then he tells me that because its high season that the hotels in the Gile Islands are about 800,000 rupiah a night. Now I no he's full of shit. I tell him straight away that he has the wrong information, and that I had been to the Gile Islands already and only paid 150,000 a night for two people. He didn't say much after that, but i don't get why he would lie straight up like that, maybe he just wanted me to stay in the south the whole time.

I arrived in Kuta, and found that the place was almost deserted, there were plenty of room and I was able to get one for cheap, the only drawback we the bathroom facilities. I could have paid more and gotten a western style bathroom, however, I was only spending one night and figured I could make do. I drove around Kuta for a short while and seen the beach, which is one of the nicest in Lombok, but because I wasn't going just for the beach I found that there wasn't really a lot else to do. I did later hear that the diving is really good there, but never checked it out for myself. At my home stay the breakfast was amazing, it was your standard pancake of course (included with the night stay), but this one was by far the best, and they even had homemade jam to put on it. (Wow its not taking much to please me these days).

Right after breakfast I headed west to complete my circle of Lombok, I planned on going to the far southwest peninsula and staying on one of the islands there called Gile Gede. Well it was bound to happen at some point, I never book anything ahead of time, and with so few hotels and home stays in the area, I was unable to find place to stay. I had left early in the morning so I had time to make it back to Sengiggi and complete my circle in the same day. It turned out to be a long day on the bike though, I arrived in Sengiggi at 5:45pm, just before sundown, and I was sore. I still got to see a lot of the southwest and I don't really feel that I was missing out. I later thought about how lucky I have been with accommodation, after almost two months and the first time I was unable to get one where I wanted. I've decided to continue not booking ahead.

That concludes the motorbike adventure, and NO crashes.

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Photos

Hotel
Last shared hotel

First stop
Just a nice view I thought

Comments

[Sean]

Loved your bit about Lombok, I spent a month there last year and Im heading back on Monday (april) for a bit of a look around tetebatu and then some of the small islands in the South west corner:)