Yogyakarting

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This city is billed as the cultural core of Java. That’s not so evident on arrival. It is busy and, as in Jakarta crowded with motorcycles. Nobody walks. Sidewalks suddenly disappear or are in such bad shape they are worthless. There are many transportation options, the public bus one being the least attractive. You can book a ride share on a motorcycle through an app. There are pedaled and motorized becak (like rickshaws, but pushed not pulled). There are taxis, of course. And bikes. But almost nobody walks.

Doing insufficient research, I booked a place on what turns out to be THE tourist hotel/hostel block in town, Prawirotamen. I’m in a little place that earned great reviews on Booking.com, though I don’t exactly know why. After being initially mad at myself for not having done more research, I discovered the advantage of the street…many good restaurants and bars nearby…even walkable if willing to dodge the motorcycles and jump over eroded sidewalk.

The primary sights of Yogyakarta are within walls of the city within the city, the Kraton, home of the Sultan of Yogyakarta. Yogja, as the city is referred to by the locals, has been a special area of Java since the 18^th Century because of the role of the Sultan in supporting resistance to the Dutch and British occupations and for being a force for Indonesian independence. The royal family still lives in the Kraton, but the bulk of it is now a museum. The town within a town is surrounded by walls and, in addition to the royal family’s home, has everything that exists outside of the walls, just on a smaller scale.

Yogyakarta’s other attraction for tourists is that it is within easy reach of Borobudur, is the center of batik production in Java, and is considered an artistic, liberal city.



For me, the attraction turned out to be the restaurants and bars within easy reach of my small hotel. While I thought they’d all be crowded with foreign tourists, they actually attracted a good mix. After seeing the few sights and doing a little window shopping, having lots of evening options nearby turned out to be just what I needed.

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