Our Precarious Balance with Karma

---

July 23

In Allahabad we had a girls day out. Along with the two other girls from our group we went Temple Hopping. We saw Hamnuman (the monkey god) laying down, the underground temple where we made puja (an offering), a three floor colorful temple, a new white marble middle-class temple, and an ashram for the worker’s relief agency. Great descriptions we know, but we had a wonderful, warm hearted Auto Rickshaw driver, and a good time was had by all. We felt very independent and accomplished.
Then we took a four hour train to Varanasi (the city of learning and burning and the city of the Hindu god, Shiva.) Shiva is known as the God of destruction and creation and symbolized by the lingam - an erect penis. He meditates on a tiger as a symbol of controlling lust. He is blue to reflect the all-prevailing sky. Our evening activity was meeting with an astrologer. We had high hopes that he would be some psychic guru that would be able to answer all of our questions about life and death - details to follow.

July 24

Sunrise and Sunset found us by the banks of the Ganges witnessing the holy dip (not something that goes with potato chips) of the pilgrims and the ablutions of the sadhus (holy men) and the cremations that take place in the ghats along the river. Although we didn’t see any bones or bodies floating along, this is not an uncommon occurrence on the river that the Loney Planet describes as “septic.” It is said that if you are cremated in the Ganges, your soul will escape the cycle of reincarnation. There are between 3 and 600 burning cremations a day.
One can’t imagine the heat and dust, the dripping sweat that melts into puddles off our faces - the endless “purell moments” jasmine and sandlewood do little to mask the stench. The flies, the horns, the cows, the goats, the pigs is all still overwhelming. We are now looking at the end of our visit to India and although the spiritual revelations haven’t been quite what we hoped, or come easily I think we do feel that we’ve made a leap of understanding of what this is all about.
There are many types of giving. You can write a check to an organization, but it was quite a different experience when you make the physical gesture of giving, of personally recognizing a person’s hardships and making yourself just a bit vulnerable and involved. Everywhere, all the time, people are asking for backsheesh (rupees) and on some level it seems meaningless in the face of such extreme need. It is easy to turn off and succumb to the feeling of being overwhelmed. It is always difficult to know, how much and to whom to give. I think we were sheltered by the neutrality of being with a group of people, with limited interaction but even so it is incomprehensible just to bear witness to the dire reality of so many people. Leprosy is still a huge issue. It is hard to imagine how some of these people survive in their spirit and find the will to keep going. Why don’t they just say, “no more?” It is clear from there expressions that they are mentally very aware. Floating through our minds at this time was Michael Jackson’s song “Man in the Mirror.”
Sadhus are everywhere as this is the height of the pilgrimage season. Clad in orange and barefoot, carrying small bottles of water from the Ganges, these people’s faith is utterly incomprehensible on some level to us. We feel a complete inability to relate and feel epithetical to this kind of spiritual devotion.
On a different note, although we were floating on the water at 5am, we were determined to make the most of our day and walked the ghats (riverside) and explored the streets, the temples and the shops. While waiting for mom to finish buying an OM sign for my college dorm room, I met a 12 year old friend who won my heart and compelled me to buy a binde set of powdered paint after giving me her whole sales pitch about her aunt and how she expects to make a profit. Mom had been chasing me around the city trying to buy a set, sending all of the “hawkers” my way. Although I still don’t want the set, this girl was so charming the transaction was a delight.
In fact we met a lot of people on our wanderings. And although we were wary that they were trying to hustle us, almost always it turned into a beautiful smile and a warm exchange of friendship. It really taught us a lesson about trusting people and the kindness of strangers.
A visit to India would not be complete without trying pan, a beetlenut on a leaf mixture that leaves your mouth red and causes you to spit a mushy wad out. We tried one that was made with mint and tutti frutti flavors and smelled like perfume and lasted about 2 seconds in our mouths before we regurgitated.

July 25

7am we were tuk tuking along to Sarnath, the place where Buddha presented his first sermon. Buddha was born in Lumbini (now Nepal) and is said to have gained enlightenment under the Bodi tree (fig tree). The place is decorated with prayer flags whose messages are supposed to float up to the heavens on the wind. He was of the warrior caste (which is symbolized by the lion.) Buddha was born a prince named Siddhartha and his precepts are based on a morality and a philosophy rather than a religion based on god. There are temples here created by the different Buddhist countries like a mini UN.
Mom’s moment of fame was when she shocked our tuk tuk driver by reminding we had a plane to Delhi to catch by calling out “Chelo!” with a smile. The driver was absolutely delighted by her Hindi!
We arrived at the airport nice and early and almost missed our plane by sitting there oblivious. Easier than one might imagine in India. The drone of the chanting of prayers and the relentless squack of traffic horns fill our last moments as Bejing beckons tomorrow.
Stay tuned for part II of finding and losing our precarious balance with Karma! Shanti! (peace!)

---

Photos

Pilgrams Progress
Rishikesh

Comments

[mickey glass]

Amazing Adventure
It's wonderful hearing from you and sharing this incredible trip. Love,Mickey

[mickey]

In Awe
I ams amazed by you great adventure...and love sharing your travel log. Travel safe. Love, Mickey

[mickey]

Awesome
I am not surprised,but amazed bythe adventure you are having this year. Can't wait to se your pictures. Take care.Mickey