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Published: July 22nd 2009
July 19
Shimla is shrouded in mist. It floats even into your room like breath on a cold day which makes it really fun during the corkscrew turns throughout the Himalayas. We had contemplated wearing the “scream” masks as a group on the Toy Train yesterday, but thought it would have been much more apt to reflect our mood at dinner last night which set a new record waiting for 3 hours to be served. There was a lovely bon fire at the rooftop restaurant. In case you’re wondering what would be the most important things to pack if the airlines only allow you to pack 8 kilos, and you are traveling from the Thai beaches to the snow capped mountains of Everest, for mom that included: (T.M.I., I know) 6 books, and 4.5 pounds of Miralax and fiber bars. This as you can imagine felt a little ridiculous as Sasha contracted what seems to be the infamous “Delhi Belly” with mom fulfilling the symptoms in sympathy. Regardless we passed a 9 hour drive to Rishikesh.
We arrived and were greeted with a tikka (a red or saffron dot placed in the middle of the forehead like a third
eye). Rishikesh means place of sages and we were appropriately staying at an ashram. We heard the tinkling of bells and cymbals and chanting Hare Krishna. We had been playing ping pong with attacks of Delhi Belly and we both planned to return home a size two. Our daily menu on good days consists of curd (yogurt), with corn flakes (Sasha’s invention), and a medly of different breads, naan, roti, chapatti, paratha and idli. The place is swarming with sadhus (barefoot and robed in saffron making their way with empty bottles to fill in the ganges). We have made it here on the last day of the grand pilgrimage and this peaceful town has been transformed.
July 20
We commenced the day with 6am Yoga, the heat was staggering. We no sooner left our room freshly showered that we were drenched once again. It was truly hard to imagine. We followed the hoards of pilgrims on a tour around the entire city. Though fascinated by us, they were actually very friendly and respectful. By the time we got to the center of town, Sasha had thrown up in various locations like Hansel and Grettle, leaving a path behind
her. So we made a quick exit against the flow of pilgrams, hired a private rickshaw with special instructions to take Sasha directly to the hotel.
Once I arrived at the hotel, (which was 5 minutes in rickshaw vs. the two hours it had taken to walk!) The hotel manager refused to let me borrow his cell phone to call my mom to tell her that I had arrived safely. So I sludged down the road, eyes pealed for an “STD”sign where I would find a public telephone. Mom wants me to say that she was super impressed that I was able to negotiate the whole transaction flawlessly. Then I staggered to bed and didn’t move until mom came home a few hours later to take me to the hospital since my fever had not gone down.
As soon as I arrived at the hospital and saw all the people there who were waiting, in muted misery, my spirits sagged even more. It cost 20 rupees for the doctor’s visit (which is about 40 cents), and 89 rupees for the medicine ($1.80), although mom decided better to take the antibiotics we had brought with us as there was a huge
communication gap with the doctor who didn’t speak/understand English nor were there any kind of test taking facilities that we were used to besides a hand held thermometer that mom made sure he had sterilized before he stuck it in my mouth.
I went back to bed and mom went to see the Ashram where the Beatles wrote the White Album. It was now condemned by the Indian government due to a scandal (free sex…), but was able to bribe the guards to let them in. The walls of their room were painted with phrases from their songs (here comes the sun, Lucy in the sky with diamonds, blackbird, happiness is a warm gun…) and images of the walrus…ku ku cachu… which she duly recorded for me on video so I wouldn’t miss out while I was sick in bed. That night there was a big festival on the Ganges with lots of chanting, music, and flies.
What we learned from the Rough Guide: India *Hinduism is based on Karma (following the correct path in work and actions), Dharma (social and religious duties), and Artha (gaining material wealth -!?!?!)
*Dowries have been illegal since 1961 but are
still the source of death when the dowery fail to meet the expectations. The brides are doused in Kerosene and burned to death and it is called a kitchen accident. In 2005 6,787 cases of dowry related deaths were registered.
*India has the highest rate of AIDS and Child Laborers in the world
*The peacock is the national bird - also known for fertility and that it dances at the approach of rain
*To touch the rump of a cow earns fertility and prosperity (hence one of the largest populated countries in the world)
*Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday are bad days to cut ones hair or nails according to Indian tradition.
*Hindu has no founder and no hierarchy in terms of gods. They are Brahman (eternal, uncreated and infinite). The gods are manifestations of this formless phenomena. The Dalits are the untouchables and they often convert to Buddhism or Sikhism which don’t believe in the caste system. The government now reserves 50 percent of government jobs for the Dalits.
*Some Indian History: Mahatma (which means great soul) Ghandi studied in London, worked in South Africa and in 1915 returned. Many Indians served for the Brittish in WWI without receiving any
of the benefits they had been promised. In 1919 there were huge riots against the Rowland Acts which mandated that political cases could be tried without juries (huge massacres at Amristar). 1947 Neru led the National Congress to independence and partition. Pakistan being divided between East and West (Lahore and Bangladesh) which later gained independence. Ghandi was assassinated in 1948 and Neru was first Prime Minister from 1945 - 1964. 1951 India adopted a constitution and became the world’s largest democracy. Indira Ghandi, his daughter (no relation to Mahatma) served as Prime Minister from 1966 off and on until 1984 when she was assassinated. Rajib, her son, governed from ’84 - ’91 when he was assassinated. And Sonya, his Italian wife has been active since.
July 21
Jai Mata Di! (Hooray!) Sasha is feeling better! Mom started the day with another Yoga class where her crowning glory was to learn how to hum like a honey bee and roar like a lion. (We’ll demonstrate upon request).
We took a short ride to Hardiwar (Hardi = god + war = door) where we went to the ghats by the Ganges and saw people getting their heads shaved, leaving
one tiny pony tail to symbolize their act in mourning. It is here that there is a footprint of Vishnu and people come to wash around their sins. To get to Allahabad we took an overnight train (second class sleeper, with AC it was a step up from our last one!) We arrived at the station an hour early where we were immediately surrounded by the friendly (in mom’s opinion) curiosity of 95% men who were enamored, gazing at my bare shoulders. After multiple attempts by our guide Dinesh and the rest of our group forming a literal circle around me and the bags, Dinesh was able to get a security guard to come and shoo them away. Indians have the most incredible talent for staring, and never waiver, even when someone starts staring at them back. In any case, it is a moment of fear I will never forget. Mom thinks that if you don’t dress appropriately for the culture than people are going to react. I say that never excuse groping (which I’ve already experienced twice from the so-called friendly pilgrims) and that there are women all over the Indian media “shoulder-bare” and wearing more provocative clothing than
I even packed. There is definitely an abyss between the Bollywood seductress and accepted reality.
July 22
Chello! (Lets go!) Allahabad - home of the Neru family and the Banyan tree where people leap to their death to avoid the cycle of rebirth. We took a boat onto the Ganges and made Prasad (an offering of flowers and coconuts and coconut milk). Then we went to some random, abandoned tombs and then Neru and Indira Ghandi’s house. It is here also that the infamous Shah Jahan of the Taj Mahaj had his brother killed so he could take over. We were supposed to be camping on the Ganges but due to Monsoon season we are staying at a fancy hotel (with internet!). The cacophony of sounds and smells and flies and sweat is truly daunting. We love the roll and the melody of the Hindi language. One of my strongest images is of the few women that I do see, working in their gorgeous multi-colored saris carrying enormous loads of brick and stones in bowls on their head, utterly graceful and obviously strong.
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Ann Quinn
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Love your blog entries. I look forward to reading each one.