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Published: December 15th 2011
It’s not always a pleasure riding on Indian roads. In fact it can often be a real hassle and a big risk to life and limb (and without the joy of riding which at least makes the thrill of bike risk-taking more acceptable!).
But... often in the mountains, one is just bowled over by the sheer joy of a ride. Of course it can happen in fits and starts on those sections of road that are very good (as is the case sometimes on the ride to Leh and through Spitti Valley for example). But those rides are also marked by some real hard times amidst dust and rocks and sand and water.
I had dreamed of riding through Uttarakhand ever since a quick visit to Almora , Kausani, and back to Kathgodam by bus and train in 2009. I had observed the quality of the roads and the views. I wanted to explore the route from Rishikesh via Rudraprayag. On this trip I travelled with Carolina.... and on Gladys (my Royal Enfield 350cc Electra). We had started out on September 8
th from Mumbai, ridden up through Rajasthan and Punjab, spent a month in Banjar Valley (Kullu) before heading
to Rishikesh for a week.
The fabulous thing about the first 200 klms north out of Rishikesh is that the road basically follows the course of the Ganges up to Karnaprayag where it veers north to Badrinath. Here the Ganges is already called something else (Alakananda) but to Hindus this is getting close to the source of Mother Ganga. Our ride continued east at Karnaprayag. The road was consistently narrow but good. The traffic was light (always a blessing... especially when that means few trucks or buses).
Once we left the Ganges, the valley travelled became placid and inviting with many small simple villages. Then.... about 20 klms before reaching our goal of Kausani for the night, a glorious view of the eastern snow capped Himalayan peaks came into view in sunset beauty. The light was fantastic. This was Carolina's first view of the Himalayas and she was suitably impressed to say the least.
Kausani also did not disappoint. It was early November and a perfect time of year to hit clear views of the Himalayas. Kausani has to be one of the best expansive views from India that you can get on a very clear day.
From Kausani the road descends in gentle corners and it's like skiing down a well groomed slope through Bimatal and ending on the flat at Kathgodam where one is rudely awakened once again to the heat and dust and fumes which is normal for the plains. Its always so sad to leave the mountains. Time to put on the dust mask again and cope with the traffic and potholes.
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Marguerite
non-member comment
Another WOW!
Spectacular Paul - so glad you and Caroline continue to be 'awed' by your beloved India. Hugs