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Published: October 31st 2006
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The desert state of Rajastahn is the India of legend and folklore, with towering forts, ornate palaces, bustling markets and remote camel safaris. Men wear turbans and knee length cotton tunics over their trousers, while the women favor brightly embroidered saris. Fresh from the drizzling rain of Paris, the heat, noise and color were definitely a shock when we arrived in the provincial capital of Jaipur!
Cars, motorcycles, autorickshaws (something like a golf cart with two seats and open sides) and bicycles compete for space on the crowded roads, weaving forward to occupy any available place regardless of lane lines or traffic signals. Just crossing the street was an adventure at first, but we followed the locals and learned to negotiate gaps in the traffic.
Jaipur has been known as the “Pink City” since 1876 when it was painted to welcome the Prince of Wales. Within the walls of the old city, many historic buildings have been preserved including the City Palace. Here we were introduced to the culture of the Rajputs, local warrior clans famous for both their ferocity in battle and patronage of the arts. The royal observatory next door is a testament to one ruler’s passion
for astronomical calculation. Among the large collection of instruments, the most striking is a 27-meter sundial, casting a shadow that moves up to 4 meters per hour.
Vithal, our rickshaw driver, helped show us around Jaipur. On our last full day, we treated him, his sister, Kussum, and their mother to a movie. We saw a comedy about a man who could talk to Gandhi and helped him give others advice. Thanks to our translators we all enjoyed this funny show.
Our first train in India was scheduled to leave at midnight, but didn’t arrive until almost 2 am. By then the grungy station platform looked more like a refugee camp, with families and solo travelers stretched out on blankets next to their belongings. We were grateful to stumble into the air-conditioned sleeper car, even if the “bunks” were little more than narrow shelves with blankets and pillows.
Arriving in Jaiselmer we were met by a small army of guesthouse owners arranged in front of the station, each loudly proclaiming the merits of their particular establishment. Luckily we had one picked out in advance, and were quickly whisked into the “Golden City”. Nicknamed for the rich yellow
color of the local sandstone, the old city of Jaiselmer centers on a fort containing not only the former ruler’s palace, but also houses, shops and restaurants. No cars are allowed past the main gate, but the narrow cobblestone streets are thronged with local commerce and an occasional wandering cow.
On the morning of our second day, we left before sunrise to explore the surrounding area on a camel safari. Camel riding turned out to be slower but more comfortable than either of us expected, the perfect way to appreciate the quiet beauty of the desert landscape. The Thar Desert is more rocky scrub than sand dunes, with herds of grazing goats and small fields of carefully tended millet. Empty water bottles and plastic bags are secured to fence posts to help scare the birds away, isolated reminders of the modern world.
Camped for the night on one of the larger sand dunes, we watched the stars appear as our guide simmered curry and toasted chapattis over an open fire. Chris missed his guitar, but even without it we were able to manage an a capella concert ranging from Hindi wedding tunes to “Country Roads.” It was hard
Outside the cinema
We watched a movie in Hindi called Munna Bhai. to believe all of the skittering the rustling we heard was really the sound of scarab beetles, but seeing their thousands of tracks in the morning convinced me otherwise.
Another highlight of our visit to Jaiselmer was the Jain Temples, a complex known all over India for their elaborate carving. A local guide introduced us to the 24 primary tirthankars (teachers) as well as some of the basic tenets of the Jain religion. These include reverence for all forms of life, extending to a vegetarian diet and even eating before sunset to avoid swallowing bugs.
From the golden city we traveled to the “Blue City” of Jodhpur, named for the color of the houses favored by the city’s Brahmin caste. As we climbed the steep old road behind our guesthouse, the massive Meheran Fort seemed to grow right out of the rock above us. Impressively restored thanks to the efforts of the current maharaja, a well produced audio tour led us past the iron spikes o the front gates (to repel attacking elephants) and the collection of tiny handprints (left by the last group of royal wives to commit suicide on their husband’s funeral pyre) to the elaborate
mirror work inlay of the royal audience chamber. Both the mirrors and later patterns using glass Christmas balls were designed to create a dazzling effect when the rooms were lit by candles or oil lamps.
The next day we embarked on a different kind of desert adventure, the one aimed at giving us an idea of daily life in a farming village. Our guide and host was Gemar Singh, a university educated man returned to rural life with a dream of promoting responsible eco-tourism. Like most the houses we passed, Gemar’s home consisted of two round rooms set in a walled open courtyard. Walls are built from stone slabs, set vertically like planks with mud to plaster the cracks. Using stone rather than mud for the primary material prevents insects from burrowing inside to destroy the thatched roof.
As son as we arrived we attracted the attention of a crowd of children, who were fascinated by our digital cameras and delighted to admire their pictures when they appeared on the screen. When darkness fell, I accepted Gemar’s invitation to watch his wife preparing dinner. I admired the efficient simplicity of her tiny kitchen, with a to burner woodstove,
Traditional Puppet Show in Jaiselmer
Founded by Mr. Sharma, the Desert Heritage Museum has an extensive collection of artifacts from the rural areas of Western India. Live trational music accompanied the puppet show. three bots, a box for spices and a handful of utensils. A short wooden stool was used for chopping vegetables, crushing spices and rolling chapattis.
Dinner consisted of rice, chapattis, and a buttermilk based curry with potatoes and onions, which our host explained is popular in the desert because it will keep 2-3 days without refrigeration. As we sat on a blanket under the stars, a single candle provided light without attracted too many bugs. We fell asleep comfortably on charpoys (traditional Indian string beds), enjoying our quietist night in India so far.
Back in Jodhpur, we quickly noticed the Divali floral garlands, banners and other decorations that had appeared throughout the marketplace. The holiday Divali celebrates the return of the hero Rama from a long period of exile, and traditionally oil lamps are lit to show him the way home. Celebrations also include electric lights, fireworks and the exchange of presents between friends and family members.
Next time, Divali celebrations and a pilgrimage down the Ganges…
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Kathleen Murphy
non-member comment
Oasis Lunchstop
Thank you so much for your very informative diary of your journeys so far. I'm really enjoying your photos, too - with Oasis Lunchstop as a special pleasure - as well as the Hindu Temple with steps forever.... I'm really delighted to share in your journey from my armchair vantage point. Look forward to your next installment., Love, irish kat, Kathleen