The Himal-ayas

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Pronounced slightly different here, like the Americans say Carrib-ean. Quite like this idea of my own pivate driver/gofer to get around, the edge has certainly been taken of the romantic view of train travel. You better make sure your bum is on the seat an hour before you leave, coz even with a reservation you are likely to be challenged, I've see some seats change hands (or is that bums) four times before the train pulls out. On sleepers the rules are the bottom bunk shares a seat with the two other sleepers above during the day, but they plead ignorance to this and you are orced to lie on your bunk. My new driver to Kalka is Parween, not so talkative, but that's fine as I'm doped up with paracetamol and just want to sleep. After Kalka Its 100 km into the foothills of the Himalayas and 2130m up so as it is a 7 hour train journey I am taking one trip only and going up by car, only 3 hours and coming down in the train. On the way we are pulled over at a police checkpoint where Parween is fined Rupees100 £1.50 for not wearing his official driver's badge, he is also asked to pay a bribe of the same amount to avoid the fine-he opts for the fine. Later when we stop for sweet hot spicy chai (milky tea) he tells me he holds a grudge with the police over an incident when two Israeli students hid 1.5kg of hash under his seat which they brought in from Pakistan, and hired him to drive them to Shimla. He was stopped by the police and the only way to avoid court was to pay a bribe of R10,000 (£130). However the police then watched while he gave the students a thrashing! My hotel Sukh Sagar sits on the edge of the road, but on a precariously steep slope. In my room looking out the window it feels like you are suspended in mid-air. As usual I head out (and up) to a local eating place where two large pakoras, a 600ml bottle of mango juice, two coffees and a twix like bar come to R70- 90p! The steep hills and altitide make walking tiring so I don't go too far. An impromptu religious procession has sprung up with a figure of Ganesha (Elephant God) at the front. Someone holds a bucket with a flame, children are giving out orange carnations, followed by barefooted adults. They stop at a shrine and the drummers change the rythmn and dancing breaks out, I recognise some of the moves from Lana's Zumba class but refrain from joining in for fear of causing an international incident. The following morning I see the Himalayas in full sunlight, even at this lowish level it is quite spectacular, the sun is shining, the air is sweet and clean and it is quiet. Although I am comfortable in a T-shirt it is funny to see the Indians in Pashminas, scarves wooly hats and gloves. Shimla is where the British government retired to when it became too hot on the plains, thus the incredible railway into the mountains, and it's colonial style architecture where the Raj attempted to recreate England in India. There are houses, shops and even a town hall and Anglican church here all with tiled pitched roofs. I decide I'm feeling a little better and take on the 325m climb to Jakhoo temple from "the mall". This is a Hindu temple with a 30m high figure of Hanumaan (the monkey god) who bears a passing resemblance to Michael Jackson. It is a beautifully clear warm day. There are many wild monkeys on this hill and the numbrs increase the closer you get to the temple. Thankfully there is a cafe for refreshments after the 50min climb. I sit in the shade of the giant stone idol reading my book on India when I feel a gentle hand on my hair. A monkey has decided to groom me and whilst normally I would be a bit anxious at a wild monkey at my back, in this temple dedicated to monkeys it feels quite natural. Gradually as my simian hairdresser gets on to my shoulder and inspects all my scalp and ears (thankfully he does not appear to be finding anything to eat) I am aware of a woman who is trying to convince her young daughter that the monkey is nice, I look up and confirm it is a nice monkey, then I am aware of another mother and child beside me- looking up from my book I see a queue of about twenty people has formed to have their picture taken beside me, I suppose it must be good luck. I hate to dissapoint them but in the absence of any grub on my head my furry friend has decided I may have something to eat down the back of my trousers, so it is time to move on. After watching a display of non-touching healing massage called Won-ki (I kid you not) I get a Dominos' pizza and fanta, heaven-I love curry but a wee change is nice. The take-away is busy but on my ticket it states it will be ready at 7.11 p.m, and it is! I Head off to see the much publicised "RA-One" the latest bollywood blockbuster. It is not bad, a mixture of sci-fi singing and dancing and a heart touching dad-son story. A ticket for the balcony is R100 £1.50 and there are no ads or trailers, and it has an intermission. Time for bed as on "toy train" tomorrow. K

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