wanderful life

The train down from Shimla does not disappoint, seating arrangements change regularly including myself to allow a family to be together in the same carriage. There are monkeys and cows on the line, but no delays. Each carriage is independent with a door on each side and basic lavatory, but no connection with the other carriages. There is a kind of holiday buzz as we set off, and the children are excited and blowing whistles as we go through the first tunnel, then the next and the next etc. There are 102 tunnels on this railway built in 1903,with 988 bridges- an amazing achievement recognised by UNESCO as a world heritage site. The views are spectacular and everyone is taking photographs, sharing food and drink and generally having a lovely time. Health and safety officials in ... read more

Pronounced slightly different here, like the Americans say Carrib-ean. Quite like this idea of my own pivate driver/gofer to get around, the edge has certainly been taken of the romantic view of train travel. You better make sure your bum is on the seat an hour before you leave, coz even with a reservation you are likely to be challenged, I've see some seats change hands (or is that bums) four times before the train pulls out. On sleepers the rules are the bottom bunk shares a seat with the two other sleepers above during the day, but they plead ignorance to this and you are orced to lie on your bunk. My new driver to Kalka is Parween, not so talkative, but that's fine as I'm doped up with paracetamol and just want to sleep. ... read more

Having avoided the infamous Delhi Belly, I have picked up a nasty virus doing the rounds, I am also a bit worried by the news that Dengue Haemorrhagic fever has hit Delhi, which concerns me as it is transmitted by mosquito rather than contact. Out of 56 cases 4 people have died within the first day. Had a quick look at the symptoms, cold like fever and nose bleed are two that match nicely so having a day in bed to try to recover- have changed my travel plans again. Will be off to Shimla in the Himalayas next which was meant to be last on my list, and have scratched Varanasi due to the Dysentery there. So in the absence of a travelogue, did you know?...Hiduism is "the religion of 300 million deities" although an ... read more

It turns out heading back north was for the best, for Divali in any case. Delhi is a very lively city albeit that everyone drives as if they were fleeing an alien invasion. Day was as hot and dry as every other so far, and spent the day at famous Connaught Place, famous because it was built by the British in the form of a huge circus with concentric rings of buildings with up-market shops, but the Indians were not allowed into. It is still up-market with shops that wouldn't be out of place in London or Paris but the actual infrastructure has been seriously neglected and it ain't no Champs Elysee. Being white and European is like honey to the touting bees and I am forced to take refuge in coffee shops, a policed park ... read more

Due to head of to Jaisalmer today which is close to the Pakistan border on the edge of the desert...however my trip would then take me south, and I receive some unsettling news that there has been an outbreak of cholera in the south with some 8000 cases already reported. As a lot of my train journeys are connecting I don't have the knowledge to make the necessary alterations so decide to abandon them all and head north back to Delhi for Devali. Sounds a bit extreme I know, but bearing in mind this is India all 6 trips (mostly overnighters in a/c coaches are only 68 pounds in total, and it turns out I can get a refund for all but one. Leaving Jaipur the elephants are aout on the roads doing their day jobs ... read more

Day...whatever, hot as always, had a very interesting, Indian for hair-raising, trip to the Pink city, with a wee stop on the way for a refreshing glass of grass juice. Crushed sugar cane to be exact, freshly cut from the fields put through a mangle basically, add some water and pink powder, absolutely amazing taste and looks like a pint of green Guinness settling. Jaipur is as hectic as Delhi and if anything dirtier, the only fat inhabitants here are the families of pigs gorging on the litter strewn everywhere. Fulfilled a childhood dream today by riding an elephant up to the Amber Fort. Boo is a very gentle female pachyderm and I wished the Mahoot hadn't had to use a metal pole to bash her on the head to turn, some of the older men ... read more

Namaskaar, apke se (good morning how are you) I'm only a few days in and no idea what day it is till I read the news about a certain Mr. Gadaffi- yeehah! Since last I blogged I have traveled with my own private driver (posh eh) from Delhi to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, absolutely amazing but completely over touristified if you know what I mean. He really loved his first wife and she him, 14 children! Mind you 22 years and 40,000 workers to complete, that puts the trams in the shade. Traveled to Ranthambhhore national park yesterday. 350km of extremely interesting roads, along the way we stop at an up-market restaurant and my driver cannot go in because of the caste system and although there is one wealthy Indian family inside it is ... read more

Namaste. (Hello) Excursion round Delhi/new Delhi today, very interesting place. Temp is in 80s again not a cloud in the sky. First stop is Shri Lakshmi Nairan temple, a masterpiece in marble, however the entrance is quite literally a pig stye with the little darlings running everywhere in the muck and plastic. This casual dropping of non degradable rubbish everywhere and anywhere becomes a bit of a recurring theme unfortunately and quite often by religious sites. The locals don't seem to mind as a family are sharing a picnic amongst the garbage and burning litter. The temple is serene and calming, walking in bare feet on the warm marble floor. There is a slightly unsettling feature of this Hindu temple in the form of swastikas all around the walls and barriers. I had no idea the ... read more

Day 1 comes with induction, of sorts. I wanted to experience the real India and I got it in spades. Smooth flight (weld done KLM) in 20 mins early and pick up from airport fine, then the driver misses his exit and u-turns into oncoming traffic to get to it. (I will later learn this is mild and completely acceptable). The journey to the hostel, which is between hotel and hovel, is in 80degrees at midnight and ends in a filthy bazaar up winding alleys next to a makeshift shrine. The welcome is warm and in perfect English, and Sikhs without their turban and long black hair look and sound so hippyish. The room is the most basic I have ever stayed in but even so it has a shower room and western style toilet. I ... read more