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Published: November 11th 2007
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Mumbai
The colourful cabs Mumbai - 4th - 7th November 2007
The most drama we have had so far has not been in this crazy city thousands of miles from home but back in Heathrow before we had even left! Upon checking in 3 hours early for our flight and feeling very organized and slightly keen it turned out everyone else was even more keen and had checked in on-line. This meant that an oversubscribed flight was full and a slightly funny Napolean Dynamite look-a-like of a check in assistant had to tell us we were on stand by and that we might not be able to get on the plane.
So we trudged back to Heathrow's 'finest' Italian restaurant with all our stuff and whilst munching on pizza and ciabata (mmm we could almost have been on the Spanish steps of Rome) we prepared ourselves for the embarrassment of phoning home and telling our parents that the great explorers hadn’t even made it out of zone 6!
However our luck changed when we reported back to the check in 45 mins before take off and they duly called out our name, presented us with an executive club class ticket and we
Mumbai
Chapati Beach ran through terminal 4. We had a plane to catch!
After a smooth flight where we enjoyed the nice extras of being upgraded, we landed at 11.30 local time in Mumbai and found a comfortable, clean and air conditioned room in the bustling district of Colaba.
So far we have had close encounters with Monkeys (I’ll resist a cheap Keep gag), sweated a lot, strolled around Chowpatty beach, marveled at the architecture ( a strange mix of old British buildings, Indian modern design, art deco and shanty towns which are precariously built like a house of cards) and enjoyed eating a variety of curries every day!
Having spent a few days in this city there are many things which we have been struck by:
1 - Its amazing how much stuff some women can carry on their heads. It really does put James' "2 Tesco bags is my limit" Keep to shame
2 - The People - this is a huge city with over 16.4 million people all packed into executive apartments, stylish housing, high rise flats, modest homes, shacks, shanty towns and street corners. There are people everywhere all of whom have found somewhere
to rest their head at night. With over 55% living in extreme poverty many of these are living very basic lives on the side of the road open to the dust, pollution and intense heat of the city.
When we were leaving Mumbai we got a taxi before the city (or even our driver) had woken up. It was incredible to see so many people asleep on the pavements. Not just old sailors and drunks but large families, children, babies all in formation and snaked around the streets. On a short 15 minute journey we must have passed a few hundred city sleepers.
However, we have found the people of this city to be extremely welcoming, friendly and interesting and have not once felt threatened, hassled or uncomfortable. In fact many local people especially youngsters seem to enjoy just trying out their English on us.
3 - The heat - For anyone reading this back in the UK you might want to skip this bit but it is so hot here. Its 38 degrees and we in the ir cooler season! It makes doing anything during the day a bit of a struggle and you just have
Mumbai
Drinking at sunset to get used to a permanent sweaty back and a need to quench your thirst. We’ve coped but it must be unbearable in the summer, even the fact that this is a coastal city there is no sea breeze or respite from the sheer intensity of the daytime heat, mixed with the thick layer of smog which hangs over the city it makes a very oppressive cocktail.
4. The Taxis - the best thing about the heat is that it offers the perfect excuse to ride in one of their fabulous taxis. This is definitely an experience. Black bodywork and yellow roofs on the outside allow for customization on the inside with each cabbie attempting to out do his colleague with a colourful array of in car accessories. These are usually in the shape of religious symbols, 1950’s carpets on the ceiling, jelly beans and smarties stuck to the steering wheel and ribbons across the dashboards make these amazing old taxis into moving works of art.
Taxi drivers have an interesting driving style to deal with the chaos of the roads. With one hand on the steering wheel the other is permanently poised over the horn which is
Mumbai
The thick layer of smog which covers the city at all times sounded at the slightest hesitation. Over zealous use of the horn isn’t reserved solely for taxi drivers with anyone on the road operating theirs with similar enthusiasm. It makes for a noisy backdrop for any journey.
5 - The food. So far our experience has been a good one with not a hint of Delhi Belly in sight. (touch wood) In fact for all those people that seemed concerned with our stools everything has been pretty solid so far! In fact the food has been excellent and we’ve been enjoying being legitimately allowed to go out for an Indian every night. So far we have remained vegetarian with our choices but the flavours, spices, tastes and slight tingly feeling when finished have been the ideal way to end each day.
6 Outdoors. Because of the heat and because so many people live outside everything seems to happen on the streets. With street sellers, barbers, queues for prayers, carpenters, coffee houses, off licenses, shops all lined up it gives you something different to see, smell and take in at every step. However it is at night when this city really comes alive. This week has seen the build up
to dewali which is one of the biggest festivals on the Indian calendar. Therefore additional decoration and colour have been added everywhere and firecrackers and fireworks are being tested ‘just to make sure they work’.
Away from street sellers, beggars and shanty towns is another world - Bollywood. With some 1000 films a year being made here, this city is also home to some of the biggest and richest stars in the country. Although we wouldn’t recognize Saif Ali Khan from Amitabh Bachchan (think Tom Cruise and Richard Gere) we have benefitted in spending a late afternoon in a popular ‘A list’ hangout on Chowpatty beach enjoying a Kingfisher beer and watching the sun set over this memorable first stop on our travels.
Sorry there are no photos on this entry but we are having trouble uploading them as the computers here in Goa seem as chilled out as the people!
Another sorry to those of you who may have received this twice but apparently it didn't send out properly the first time.
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