Boulders, temples and Hampi belly - Hampi

---

Our arrival into Hampi (Hospet train station) brought with it the expected result that we’d become accustomed to upon getting to any touristy destination – touts! One spotted us before we had even got off the train and started the chatter soon after we got off. We dumped our bags and thankfully, the refusal to engage the tout whatsoever concluded in him leaving us in relative peace. I went searching for a rickshaw (he was there again) and then went and grabbed Zoe who’d stayed with the bags. The rickshaw drivers all seemed more intent on sitting around and chatting and didn’t seem overly inclined to make a deal. Tout to the rescue – our aforementioned friend came to the rescue and took us up to the bus stand for a half decent fee (despite trying to convince us he should take us all the way to Hampi in his auto). Anyways, we got the bus to Hampi straight away and soon enough were out of Hospet. Coming into view almost immediately were massive boulders, scattered in clumps around the countryside and forming giant hills on the horizon – evidently our first glimpse of what Hampi was about to offer us. In addition to the massive rock formations, we also soon came upon numerous ruins of temples and what was once an eminent ancient city. It was clear to see even at this point just why Hampi and surrounds were world heritage listed. The bus only took about 20 minutes or so and we were soon in the middle of town. Upon arriving we searched for the net or a phone to call Nerida (Zoe’s sister) from as she and her boyfriend Khaliq had intended to meet us in Hampi. Unfortunately the curse of Mumbai belly had struck and she wasn’t feeling well enough to make the journey. Zoe and I then wandered down to the river (another wow moment – stunning river and scenery dotted by the massive boulders) and waited for the little boat to putter across to our side and take us from whence it came (our accommodation was on the other side). While waiting we saw a fisherman catch a pretty sizeable fish. The boat soon came and after a little bit of rock hopping we were on and across in no time. Lugging our bags up the short hill and then along a lengthy path, we eventually came across our accommodation and got a room – a cute little shack with views over rice paddies and palms. We then grabbed some food for lunch and bunkered down for an afternoon nap. The evening consisted of little more than the afternoon – a bite to eat and more relaxing was the extent of it before bed.

The next morning post breakfast we headed over the river and walked up to the Virupaksha Temple right in the middle of town. After walking through a massive courtyard and depositing our shoes we entered the temple area and to our immediate left was a big elephant. Apparently it was Lakshmi, the temple elephant. Adorned with temple art (seemingly), she pretty much just stood there and looked thoroughly bored with her life – maybe she should be out roaming those rice paddies. We then walked around more, past numerous shiva lingam’s, into an area where you could see the shadow of the gopuram (the tall tower structure at temples) inverted and then sat about. I took some video and a guy came rushing over wanting to know if I’d paid the requisite 500 rupees for this privilege – I told him of course I had…you be the judge. The main temple soon became a hive of activity – we quickly discovered a wedding was in progress. The bride and groom were carried over people’s shoulders into the temple and the wedding crowd soon encapsulated them within. The party and band continued in full swing and after watching for a little while we went back outside. We then headed right directly out of the temple complex and made our way up the Hemakunta Hill complex which was scattered with various ruins of all descriptions and sizes. Here again the landscape took us by storm. Sheer rock faces, carved away into beautiful buildings and massive boulders, delicately hanging on the side of the hill ready to roll should they be disturbed. We trudged up the incline and looked about for a while – by this time it was close to noon and getting rather warm. I died in the proverbial pretty quickly as I had come to Hampi with a cold. We wandered down to a giant statue of Ganesha and then I sat for a bit while Zoe checked out a nearby temple. Feeling pooped we made our way back into town and then back over the river to our accommodation. We didn’t have to wait long for the afternoon entertainment to begin – Australia vs India in the world cup cricket quarter final. This consumed me for the next few hours, sitting down with a bunch of locals to watch the Aussies make a decent but altogether gettable total. And then the exhaustion really set in. I could barely keep my head up and had to hit the sack – evidently I was deteriorating. Zoe stayed up and watched some of the cricket and relaxed. By the time she came to bed I had a bad fever and wasn’t in the best shape. Halfway through the night it resulted in needing the bucket – both ends were in full swing. At least I didn’t have to witness us losing the cricket!

After a terrible night attempting to sleep and not leak either end, I made the relatively easy decision to stay put for the day and not venture out. Zoe had some brekky and then headed over the river into town to try and find some tablets for me and do a few other little things. I slept while she was gone and upon her return, sat out the front of our shack with her while she devoured a papaya she’d just purchased for a measly 10 rupees. The afternoon consisted of very little – more lazing about and trying to rest. Zoe convinced me to eat something for dinner and I managed to get a few bits of pizza down. The night was slightly less painful than the previous and I managed to get some sleep.

The next morning I woke up feeling a little better and was keen to go and explore more of Hampi’s ruins before the heat came out in full swing. Unfortunately Zoe had been afflicted with the need to stay close to the toilet this time and decided to stay put. I headed out and went over the river to town. Thinking I should eat something I got two bananas – about to shove them into my bag I was then accosted by a monkey who seemingly wouldn’t let me past. It took me a little while to figure out that it was taking me hostage for my banana’s! The locals quickly instructed me to give it one of my just purchased bits of fruit – having done so I was allowed to go on my merry way. I then followed the path out past ruins along the river and out to Vittala Temple complex – apparently the undisputed ruins of the area. The ruins were very impressive, with a massive stone chariot (that so the story goes actually once worked) and intricately carved temples being the highlights. Feeling a wave of exhaustion I found a quiet spot to sit and proceeded to bring up a little bit of water and banana – the sickness evidently hadn’t totally disappeared. Somehow rejuvenated by that episode, I kept on going and walked to more ruins nearby. This time I went to what was once a big old bazaar that lead down to another impressive temple complex. Having taken in a fair bit during the morning and not wanting to push the limits of my current wellbeing, I decided to head back to the accommodation after grabbing myself a watermelon and found Zoe having some brunch. She was feeling a little better thankfully and we sat about for the afternoon relaxing and playing cards. Later that arvo we watched a bit of the Sri Lanka vs England quarterfinal, ate the watermelon on our front swing bed and grabbed some pizza (was superb) for dinner. We hit the sack pretty early as we had to get up early the next day for our long day of travel to get to Gokarna – our next destination.

Woken by the alarm we were up and gone to get the boat across to town at 7am. We then caught the first of four busses for that day to Hospet. We then jumped on bus number 2 travelling to Hubli. Four or so hours and buckets of sweat later we arrived in Hubli and soon caught bus number 3 to Ankola. Another 4 hours later and we arrived thankful that we only had one more bus to catch. Bus number 4 soon got us to Gokarna and after a short rickshaw ride later we made it to Namaste Café on Om beach.

---

Photos

Fisherman on Tungbadhra river
He caught a pretty big fish!

Wedding in Virupraksha Temple
That's the bride being carried

Stone chariot inside the Vittala Temple complex
Idiots were climbing on it....