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Published: August 24th 2005
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Welcome to Kashmir
This is the view across the Kashmir Valley after passing through the longest tunnel in India Where do I start? 11 days ago I arrived in Shimla in Himachal Pradesh, the summer capital of the state knowing I was bound for the mountains but with no plan. The journey on the train from Delhi was amazing, especially when I changed to a smaller train that ascended the mountains up to Shimla passing through 103 tunnels. Taking 5 hours the journey was amazing and full of great views of lush green hills, quaint hill stations, rice paddies and the first folds of the Himalaya's. On arrival I was approached as per usual by someone offering accomodation but for a change I was inclined to trust this guy (named Moin) and he took me to a very good hotel. We got talking during the short journey and it transpired that he arranged trips to Kashmir. I had not even considered going there but I liked the idea of what he talked about and the pictures of the places I could visit so I decided there and then to go to Kashmir. Of what I saw of Shimla, it seemed an interesting place, sprawled on the side of a large hill, it was a shame to leave after only spending
Our crew
Magali, myself and Bea a night but onwards and upwards. I joined with two very cool Parisian's girls named Magali and Bea. Between ourselves’ and Moin we decided an itinerary and we set off, the first port of call was Agroo to stay with Moin's family. The journey from Shimla to Agroo was very demanding consisting of jeeps, buses, trains and taxis but we got there in the end (30 hours later!). En route when you arrive in Jammu (the winter capital of Kashmir) what strikes you is the strong military presence. This was compounded the further into Kashmir we traveled as the volume of soldiers seemed to multiply progressively, particularly in the Kashmir Valley after passing through the longest tunnel in India (3 km) where there were soldiers and gunments down all main roads every 100 - 200 metres! Kashmir has had many problems in the past which I am not going to go into however as a tourist the army was not threatening but only served as an annoyance stopping our jeep frequently and waving guns everywhere. After finally arriving in Agroo and receiving a very warm welcome from Moin's rather extended family and I took a well deserved bath in the
stream that ran through the village which was very refreshing, the water was cool and very clean! That evening we ate traditional Kashmiri food which consisted of rice (that makes a change!) meatballs, cheese in a tomato gravy, spinach chutney and a potato curry. It was very rich but delicious and very colourful also. People eat very late in Kashmir, preferring to socialise before the meal so it was very late before we ate. Our accomadation was next to Moin's Uncles' house and was very new and comfortable and just right to experience the proper way of living in a Kashmiri village. As I said, everyone was very friendly and made a big effort to look after us, we all felt very special and like part of the family in particular the girls, who bought and adorned some very flattering traditional dress. Agroo itself was very simple with few shops and miniature horses but it is an enchanting place, all the buildings have a rustic charm and everything there has a purpose and place. The village is enclosed by large walnut trees with the surrounding land consisting of either rice paddies or orchards (mainly on higher ground) with one exception,
At home in Agroo
Some of Moin's family and us at the guest house in Agroo a cricket pitch. Being English all Indians expect to be able to have a decent conversation with me about cricket (which I know nothing about), nevertheless I attempted to play with the locals and it was good fun apart form my poor batting skills! After 3 nights in Agroo, we moved onto to Pahalgam, a small town at an altitude of 2130 metres. In contrast to the village, the landscape of Pahalgam was a lot more raw set at the bottom of a valley, sliced up by two or three fast flowing ice cold blue rivers that sourced from the glaciers of the snow capped mountains that where all around us. We went walking in the hills around Phalagam which was very enjoyable, the views were excellent, I did not however see a lion or bear which was probably for the best. Many buildings are in a Swiss lodge style and it felt very European, it was cool place but the army presence was at its worse here. After two nights in Phalagam, we moved up to Aru, a very small settlement of 150 people at 2800 metres from where we trekked. High up in the mountains are a few
people who live from the land without any modern facilities or power, we were privileged to be invited for some tea with them in their traditional mountain hut made only of wood, they spoke a different language from Kashmiri, so it was difficult even for Moin to converse with them! Their hut was very basic, their beds were made of straw and they cooked on a small stove made of mud with no chimney so it was very smoky inside. The mountains around Aru where we trekked where beautiful, silent, clean and fresh. The range of colours and stimuli is huge and a complete blast to the senses. After Aru we ventured west to Shrinigar, the summer capital of Kashmir. At Shrinigar we stayed on a houseboat on Dal Lake which was permanently moored. It was very big with many large rooms and decked out in a very opulent manner with a great deal of intricate wood carvings. Dal Lake is the perfect place to chill and there is a lot to see on it. The only way to get around is in boats similar to gondolas, there are also floating supermarkets and vendors selling carpets and silver from boats!
We took cruise of the lake and saw the perfect sunset followed by a full moon rise, can’t complain really! This is also the best way to view the mountains that enclose Shrinigar and is a very relaxing experience with only the sound of the water and distant toots from cars. We made a few stops along the way, notably at the Hazratbal Mosque where there were prayers being conducted, outside was a bustling bazaar and it was a very friendly place. On Dal Lake there are many Lotus gardens with their pink flowers they make a beautiful contrast to the green of the mountains and the differing blues of the lake and the sky. There are also huge eagles which fish in the lake providing good entertainment, circling and diving all the time. In Shrinigar itself there is not much to see but we also visited the Mughal Gardens which were very well kept and Shankaraycharya Hill which overlooks Shrinigar providing fantastic views of Dal Lake and the city. At the top of Shankaraycharya Hill is a reasonably interesting Hindu temple but the view is more worthy of the climb. To sum up Kashmir is difficult as there is
Is there a bomb up my shorts?
A friendly soldier at a checkpoint so much to offer and I only saw a limited amount. What I did see however impressed me immensely and I would describe it as one of the most beautiful places on the planet, providing the perfect atmosphere and surroundings to chill, to enjoy local culture and also hosting many opportunities to exert yourself. The issue of personal safety in Kashmir is minor I believe and should not deter you from visiting if you are concerned about this aspect. I am very fortunate to have had a superb guide and two good friends to share the experience with and would recommend travel here to anyone. Why “Kashmiri tea anyone” you may ask? Reason being is that everywhere you go in Kashmir you are offered tea, I mean everywhere and it is very difficult to say no! It is actually a very pleasant and refreshing drink, the recipe is as follows: For one cup you need 2 glasses of water, a pinch of saffron, a few pieces on cinnamon and 2 or 3 cadamen seeds. The mixture then needs to be boiled for 30 minutes (hence double water needed). Add sugar at your discretion, the Kashmiri’s like it sweet. Enjoy.
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Pk
non-member comment
You visited my home town and witnessed its hospitality despite terroism