home for 23 days- vagator!

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Had breakfast-yummy porridge. Got taxi to vagator. Could not really find where we wanted to stay, so looked at Boons Ark- fab cottage style room- immaculate and lovely grounds for Rs300.. we think!! Completley unpacked (glorious!) and had a wander- we like vagator; lots of bars and restaurants- a reasonable beach surrounded by rocks. Had lunch at a cafe on the beach- hummus and falafel. St chatting to an indian lad who works/smokes there!! Sent emails. Went to Willy at night; very good spagehtti. Had a few beers at tin tins / jaws. Cool storm in the distance; no rain seen
21.10.02
Up at 11ish- had breakfast; cornflakes with fruit (very tasty). Strolled down to the beach and got a sunlounger outside soclipse. Chatted to a few of the beach sellers- not too hassly really. Sun hot- had lunch (kingfish) which was extremely tasty. Email , although bloody thing kept disconnecting! Gave up in the end. Bought a bottle of vodka (white mischiefat 42%!p(MISSING)roof) for Rs 120! ; even got some tonic water. Sat on verandah and were joined by 3 english people (sean, carmel and john) Bri nearly polished off half a bottle of vodka and went through the usual stages of drunkeness!! went to tin tin for a meal; very good beef byriani. We then attempted to find a "party" which is easier said than done in goa with the police! Met an aussie and NZ couple on the wayand we all walked to the beach- Bri nearly decked it a river due to pissedness and losing flop flops! found a small gathering at soclipse- camp fire... had several beers and left at 2ish. Saw loads of mopeds rying to find a party. Sat on our verandah with the others until 03:30 - TIRED
22.10.02
Up at 12ish and went to Willys at 1ish ; had a tuna salad and bri had a jacket potato! By 15:30 Bri was back in bed with the hangover of the year! I went to email everyone ; internet kept disconnecting and the bloke stood next to me trying to see what I wrote! Upon my return I sat and read for a while. Out at 8ish for a curry adn then went to Jaws to watch lock stock! and drink cups of tea! In bed by 11:30. What a productive day!!
23.10.02
ANJUNA FLEA MARKET
Had breakfast and set off on foot at 12:00 to the flea market; quite a nice walk, although took one and a half hours! Beach not too nice- oil all over the sand. Flea market is huge (roughly 400 stalls (alot of naff stuff... however most of the jewellrey is FAB) . Bought an amber necklace; mother of pearl shell necklace and coconut earrings with Jillys money. Saw loads of other jewellrey I could have easily had. Very very hot, so quite and effoert walking around. Stayed for 3 hours and left via a taxi! Went to tin tins jfor evening meal(had lush kingfish- bloody huge). Bri played a couple of games of pool iwth the locals; he is now the champion!! Went to jaws to watch men in black 2- pretty shit film! home by 11:30
24.10.02
to vagator beach at 12ish. No one around as everyone with to anjuna flea market's party at shore bar until early hours. Sunbathed with only the cows for company!!! - one of them was giving me the right evil for bloody ages! Purchased a sarong off a beach seller- BLOODY SHIT THING!- its dyed me and my bloody bikini!! Bought a skirt off ashok- it was really hard to find anything decent- skirt was all I could find! Had nice dinner; chicken burger. Out with sean, carmel and john to Garden villa; really good meal- chicken byriani and a few beers. Bri and I decided to go for a few more beers at the mango tree. Met a dutch couple "jolien and bert" - very good company and they "persuaded" us to go to primrose cafe for a late one f****ing awful- trance, but place very cool. Sat and drank until 2 am (supposed to be up at 8 to go to mapusa!!!)
25.10.02
Up at 12!!( no mapusa and no breakfast!) Went to soclipse and had brunch! Jolien and Bert were down there. Didn't get on the beach until 3ish and sat on a deckchair as no loungers. Went in sea (big waves). Very warm (lovely). Watched the sunset with them both. Showed them boons ark and they are having a room for 3 weeks (move in tomoz!) Met up with them in Tin Tins at 8pm- had a strange fish (pomfrett) which was a bit tasteless really and Rs 200!! Apparently 9bar opened tonite (well it did and shut at 10pm!!) did a cross country trek to find it to no avail- ended up at Primrose cafe with worse trance than night before!! Met a brit called James- he also thought music was shit! (home by midnight)
26.10.02 - MOPED DAY!
Up at 10 (ish) and hired our moped after breakfast. Bri went round the block on his own first and then we went round block twice more together. Not as bad as i thought, although still not overtly keen- difficult to go around corners. Filled it up with petrol Rs220- no idea where we were going but ended up in baga. First stop was a german bakerty to get drinks- lush setting opposite Baga river. We then found Baga beach after a hair raising bridge- ramp almost vertical! Lay on our free sunbeds!! Beautiful beach; calmer and cleaner sea. Less hassle, comfier sunbeds and loos nearby- what more could you ask for!? Had yummy garlic butter mackerel for lunch. Had interesting incident with "lets take a photo of white woman game!!" A woman approached me and wanted me to hold "her" baby whilst a man took picture with ZOOM! camera of both (my tits) of us!! Usual processsion of 100 indian men on a seemingly perv tour (as we called them!) , although not as bad as vagator!
On our return we e-mailed then sat on Jolien and bert's verandah and drank vodka (do we ever learn!!) Sean and Carmel joined us for a natter. To willys for spaghetti and then "look for a party game ensued!!" Supposed to be one at hilltop but completley dark. Jolien and Bert gave me a goody bag for birthday, containing STs, plasters, shampoo, crisps, chocolate, nailfile, durex, cotton buds, sweets, diarolyte, nailbrush, washing powder.... pure madness!! loved it!
ended up in trance shit hole aka primrose cafe until 2pm Not too bad tonight. Drank a fair bit of vodka. to bed at 3ish after drinking more vodka on the porch!!
27.10.02 BIRTHDAY GIRL!!
Mmm a bit of a hangover! Had brekkie in bed at 11 ish (poached eggs on toast) We didn't get up until 12ish and leave until 2ish!! Phoned mum and dad up- gales a blowing in England. Good to speak for approx 15 minutes. Decided to go to Chapora Fort - saw Bert and Jolien on the way, wo went with them. Views were stunning- can see desolate beaches from there. Me and Bri walked into chapora via 2 amazing banyon trees- the sight was only spoiled by a bloke(? Itallian) on a bike trying to sell us drugs!! Had a drink in the village and then to Willys for an early lunch !! at 16:30. Went to Itallian (olive pizza)- had yummy tuna spaghetti and garlic mushrooms. We then went to Tin Tins for obligatory birthday drink! one vodka tonic... that was all I could stomach!!
* also phoned my sisters before meal. Spoke to tracey, pete, nicola and imo- they were all in horsham; brill to speak to all of them- they were watching the wedding video... BASTARDS!!!!
28.10.02
To baga with bert and jolien- set off at 09:00 and went to the german bakery opposite the river for our brekkie. It was fab- I had a bacon roll.Bri had museli and cheese croissant. Off to beach- spent hours in the sun. Sea was a calm, although a bit fishy!! Had a nice late lunch (chicken salad) with Bert and Jolien. Saw Sean, Carmel and John on the beach. Left at 4ish - found vagator without too many problems. Went to garden villa restaurant by ourselves and then went to Jaws for a couple of beers- saw Sean in there- he was quite pissed! Watched my big fat greek wedding- the subtitles which had no bearing to the film were funnier than the film!!
29.10.02
Decided to go off on our own today to arambol. Beautiful scenery on the way (lakes and palm trees)- took bloody ages though and a few wrong turns (1 and a half hours!) finally found the beach- deserted. Sea bluer than vagator and sand more white. Walked over the headland past shops and restaurants to another beach- only thing was there were no facilites (no cafe/ sun loungers) and lots of dead fish. Sunbathed for approx 1 hour(very hot) joined by nautrists! Went back to first cafe and had prawn salad (HUGE MISTAKE!!) @ least I enjoyed it, is all I can say- see 31.10.02!!
On journey back, it threatened rain and had rained in parts- road was wet so bri was told to

slow down

On way through Anapora, bike nearly stopped on a hill!! the noise of the revs woke a hound from hell and it came charging after us- teeth bared!- EVIL KNEVIL saved the day!! Went to watch panic room with jolien and bert at jaws. The sound quality was bloody awful and you could see people standing up at the cinema! Went to Garden villa again and had chicken chilly which was lush- very tender
Up at 05:30 with delhi belly +++! revenge of the prawn salad!! (in the middle of the rushing to the loo saga, there was a frog in our toilet bowl!!
30.10.02
Up at 11am and had brekkie .To anjuna market with Bert and Jolien- bigger than last week, but still full of tatt!!
Bri had his ears cleaned (indian stylie!)- which involved being probed and prodded and big ballis of wax bieng pulled out; the bloke called them stones and insisted on Rs 100 per stone!! Following threats of " tourist police" he relented and Rs 300 was given- Bri says he can hear better now (I should think so for that much!)
Bri (or rather our kitty!) got me a lush necklace for my birthday- shell inlaid in silver- got it for Rs 1,050- she wanted it for Rs 300 more!
Had lunch- soup and a sandwich (still feeling delicate) and then Bert and Jolien left. We spent some of our wedding money on wooden carvings- had to mega haggle- got about Rs 700 off in the end. I also bought some bags- which started off cheap and got even cheaper! Managed to get back on the scooter ladened up! We were supposed to be going to the shore bar, however never made it- thanks to sean's music systems adn a bottle of vodka and gin. Went for a meal mid gathering at mango tree at 23:00. Had 2 coconut fenis for Rs 10- bloody fire water. Returned to the gathering, where sean was preaching about politics and god!! We all sat up until 2(even pete who works/ lives there sat up with us!)
31.10.02
Up at 04:30 - throwing guts up- revenge of prawn salad phase II!! Threw up and delhi belly much of the day- fcuking fab!!- spent most of the day whishing I was in england getting ready for halloween!! Left the room at 21:00 and went to china garden rest(nearest one) for half a cheese macaroni- still cramping back by 10- amazingly slept for 9 hours- no more upset tum!
1.11.02
Up at 09:30 - feeling much better- had honey toast for brekkie. Asked Pete to clean room which he's going to (thank god as it stinks!!) Down to little vagator beach (not up to anything else really) Met bert and jolien. Beach has a few more shacks on it now and more people. Sea was gorgeous (calmer and clearer) although occasional huge waves- one knocked me on my arse!!
Had cheese omlette for lunch, which was poorly ick food!
Stayed on beach until 4 ish. Went to Willys with Bert and Jolien- felt a bit better, had beef sizzler. Jolien didn't feel well so she went back . Had some beer at mango tree- sean and crew joined us- me Bri and Bert went to primrose cafe- duf duf.....!!! I started having cramps again- shoud never of had the beers- home at 01:30 Up at 05:30 - AWFUL DELHI BELLY!!
2.11.02
Bri went to pharmacy for some metrondazole for 5 days to aid with delhi belly. Can't drink with them- BLOODY MARVELLOUS!! - Diaoherra stopped almost instantly!! Went on moped to baga via calangute (wot a shit hole- looked at a couple of hotels- nowt special so ain't going there!) Went to lita cafe near river after retreiving travel twel from baga beach shack(left it there by mistake!) Had lentil soup and herb paneer on german bread- very tasty
At night met Joilen and Bert- went to Garden villa restaruant- Jolien really not well. Had early night- no more diaoherra! * got photos developed and scanned some to family
3.11.02
Up early and decided to go to baga beach- got there for 11:15- beach was crowded (diwali weekend) Loads of indian families (no westerners in sight!) Not actually gawked at too much. The sea was very tidal- strong rip and some people said that there was a shark-?knows! The sun was boiling until 1ish and then could feel a small breeze. Had lunch at 3- cheese omelette- funny sat watching the brits abroad, having every orofice massaged by indian masseurs for probably quadruple the price!! Returned and sat with Bert and Jolien- mozzie tastic. Bri rang his mum- all his happy on the geordie front!! Went to garden villas at night to see Harry Potter- not too bad 2nd time round. could hear fire crackers going off for diwali and a truck went past with an effigy of a demon all lit up (* saw them making these on the way back from baga today- some were bloody huge things- very grotesque. Diaoherra has returned- FAB!
4/11/02
DIWALI- Up at 10ish- had brekkie - then upset tum, finally leaving at 11:00 with map in hand! Despite map, ended up in sumial (no where near where we wanted to be!) Ended up driving back through chapora to get our bearings!Some diwali celebrations were under way- tug of war contest and a game which involved a man being blindfolded and having to crack a coconut up with a stick!!. Eventually after alot of stopping we found mapusa (cfap hole!!) Decided to continue driving and headed towards Bicholim via assanora( beautiful palm fringed river here) Not much in Bicholim, although lots of diwali lanterns could be seen hanging from the houses. Went to Maem lake, which was very pleasant, although had a crappy cafe, which sold everything BUT what you wanted to eat!! Had milk of mushroom soup! Returned to chapora(not able to find forts which were on map) Had a cheese sandwich (asked for chicken!!) . Went out to Pizza Olive with Bert and Jolien; yummy , yummy- chicken paprika and mash. Then went to Mango tree and got whopped by the dutch at a game of trumps!!
5/11/02 -DAY 50
Went out with Jolien and Bert on the mopeds... once Pete managed to get another one for them. Headed off to old goa- took about 1 hour; very scenic in parts, especially when driving along the mandovi river . Got to old goa and firstly went to "Basi iica of born Jesus (1600s church) famous due to contaning the tomb of St Francis Xavier. Extremeley ornate inside. We then went to Se Cathedral (largest church in goa) . We then decided to have a ride out. Saw some diwali festivities in a village and waited for a ferry over the river.... but it didn't come for ages.. so drove out to ponda- stopping off for lunch on the way (Nh4) - Was the main road through goa and very busy- I hated it and Bri liked it! Could not really find anything else so decided to drive back via the coast- took 2 hours and it was getting dark (Bri only had his sunglasses on !!) Got back and went to Willys. Had a yummy.... but cold beef canneloni! knackered tonite and went to bed early
6/11/02
Up early and on vagator beach by 10:30- sea was close to "Soclipse". Saw some dolphins swimming, which was pretty cool. Had a great lunch- hummus, egg and falafel (changed their menu) and headed back to Boons Ark. Showered and set off to anjuna via travel agents- only 2 trains to Hampi per week from Vasco de gama- bloody useless! ordered tickets for 13/11/02- SL class. To anjuma market to get chrimbo gifts- didn't spend more than £3.50 per person (still a fortune for us!) haggled and haggled! Didn't spend too long at the market * sent some leaf paintings to parents and Jack- Anjuna post office is a god send - they are friendly adn the shop next door sews parcels up! Why couldn't it have been that easy at Jaisalmer!
Returned and sat on Bert and Joliens balcony for a while, before going to morrocan restaurant for evening meal- I had tomato kofta (like meat balls) very yummy. Only problem was that it was like sitting in an amsterdam coffee shop- chilllums ahoy! returned and slept from midnight
7/11/02
Up early to sort chrimbo pressies and write thankyou lettersto various people. Had fab brekkie- mixed fruit salad and yoghurt (Mmm) Eventually set off to post office, where they sewed our parcel up (no wax required!) - only problem is with the tail of the fish... they padded it as best they could so we shall see. Usual form filling and photocopying required- weight 5 kg and cost us Rs 1,050. Went to "Bean me up" in Anjuna for the "best food we've had since getting to india"; had tofu cram cheese on pitta with fab salad (HEAVEN!) We then went to oxford stores- where they follow you around (we must be interesting!) - bought heinz ketchup! we then decided to meet bert and jolien at leony resort swimming pool. Swimming was good but the staff are a bunch of wankers- not only did they accuse us of not paying when we had, but they also enjoy throwing innocent frogs over the tops of roofs- gave them a piece of mind... little shits... needless to say we left. Went on email to see if tracey was on MSN... she wasn't. Emailed a few people. Bri and I played cards and then went to jaws to watch a "strange movie"- had yummy meal though... beef sizzler with mash! * had a guest in our bathroom all day- praying mantis; how fab!)
8/11/02
Up at 09:00- had mixed fruit and porridge (Mmmm) . Set off to Baga and got our sunbeds at usual- silver sands.Loads of indian people on the beach and in the sea- all fully clothed!. Sea was quite rough with a strong rip to the left- difficult to walk in it. Had a great pineapple for snack. Left beach at 15:30 and went for lunch. I had a HUGE club sandwich! Showered and went on email to see if tracey was on line- was she hell! Did get an email off mum and dad which was cool. Bought a bottle of vodka and were joined by Bert and Jolien for a drink. Went to Pizza Olivo- played cards and sank a few beers, before going to Mango for a drink and then bed * Saw water buffallos wallowing in a pond (cool)
9/11/02
Up 11 ish - off to beach, had brunch in soclipse- falafel/ hummus- yummy... yummy!! managed to get a sunbed and watch 3rd world war break out; owner of soclipse with big stick vs hawker girls (about 15 of them)- owner won! Hawkers +++ on the beach , but we didn't get bothered again(I wonder why!!)Saw Bert and Jolien and another couple (irish) who say hampi is very good (looking forward). Sea is a bit rough and sun burnio. Power cuts tontie (on/off/on/off!) Sat and drank some vodka with Bert and Jolien. We then went to Willys with torch in hand for their last supper!! had luke warm lasagne and a few beers. Power came back on after half an hour..Joined by thatcherite Anne who hates foxes (...vermin) and boyfriend- GREAT!! how to ruin a perfectly good evening with evertonians!!!! Thankfully they went to bed early for mass!! We then headed to trance cafe- Bert brought the shit music to the attention of the DJ, who said "well if you think you can do better.....!!" Got well oiled and left at 2 ish
10/11/02
Up at 11:15- thanks to alarm. Bert and Jolien left their bags with us as they leave today. We all walked to " bean me up" in anjuna- very hot en route. Had yummy tofu burger and tofu ice cream! Bri had all day breakfast with Heinz baked beans!! We then went to anjuna beach and got pestered by dope sellers- Bert told them that they had bad Karma and that it was bad for their health!! Collected pebbles on the beach- really nice ones. Walked back. Saw eagle and buzzard. Bert and Jolien left at 18:00- very sad to see them go
Went on email- bloody jaws managed to disconnect just as I'm about to send an email. Went to bethany inn- got email off tracey- Pete's got concussion since halloween- which is a nightmare for him. Went to bluebird for a typical french meal- small amount but quality food! Got back and Bri whopped me at cards!!
11/11/02
Up at 9ish... went to Rainbow book shop and got a good price for all our books- got 4 back (thrillers and horrors). Went to lila cafe for breakfast- bacon, eggs and Heinz ketchup!! To baga beach- less crowded and more westerners... well brits to be exact! Didn't have lunch - too full. Sea wonderful today (calm and clear) Returned and I syringed Bri's ears(very sore) checked email and went to bean me up on the moped. Had fab tofu bolognese- so much food! Came back and played cards/ read for a while
12/11/02
Up at 11ish. Had fruit for brekkie- very good. Went down to vagator beach and spoke to Jay and Sophie for a little while- they are opening a shop like mums in ireland- gave them mum and dad's e-mail. Usual perv tours on the beach! Had a kingfish for lunch. Went back to hotel adn paid our bill; not bad only 13,000 Rs- £170 for 3 and a half weeks incl moped hire! Bri said bye bye to brmm brmm. . Went to Pizza Olivo for evening meal- Jay and sophie were in there! Had chicken mamos- sat and chatted to them and sank a few beers. We all then went to mango tree and had a few more beers until midnight- oops have to be up at 4!!

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Photos

boons ark
our home for 23 days

arambol
beach at arambol

bri in rickshaw
new day job- on my birthday!

we have seagulls
india has cows on the beach!

chapora fort
view from chapora fort- on my birthday

goan scenery
typical goan scene

our favourite place (soclipse)
... until loads of backpackers landed!

diwali
lanterns marking diwali

water buffalo
water buffalo wallowing

vagator
on the way to baga

our bathroom buddy
praying mantis!