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Published: March 9th 2011
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Hangzhou
Pagoda and bridge What would Master Kong have made out of a trip through China in this current age and day? And who is Master Kong? Lets answer the second one first, no he is not the little brother of King Kong, it is none other than Confucius, Kongzi in Chinese which translates to Master Kong. Kong is the clan name, and there are still Kong's out there, a lot so I have understood. In fact, the Kong's still live in the same village where their famous ancestor was born, and they are buried in the same cemetery where he was buried. But the Kong's lost all their former glory and estates after the communist take over. You see before that the Kong clan, and then specifically the ones descending from a direct line from Confucius, were endowed with a lot of wealth, property and titles.
They were actually feudal landlords, the mightiest in China after the Emperors, occupying a space of their own under Imperial patronage. Such was there influence that they were allowed to collect taxes, have their own laws and had the right to execute people within their domain. But the good times had to end at one point and
Hangzhou
Weeping willows it ended for them in 1949. The communists were not impressed with feudal landlords or with Confucius teachings. There fortunes, however, have turned somewhat, because Master Kong is back in grace again, though now it is the government making the money.
Back to the first question. How about Confucius himself, what would he think if he travelled like I do, through his country? Let's start where I left off last time, in Hangzhou. Walking around the west lake, Kong would probably have been surprised, since it didn't even exist back in his time. But I suspect he would have been pleasantly surprised, as it is a spot of beauty. I am sure he would, like me, especially have enjoyed the mornings when you can walk around the pretty gardens and pavilions and admire the serene atmosphere. He would have smiled at the elderly people doing exercises and tai-chi, and watched the mist rise up from the quiet waters.
But then as the day progressed he would undoubtedly have noticed the crowds becoming thicker and thicker and the noise levels increasing exponentially. Would he have been shocked? Would he like me wonder why so many Chinese seem to love
their own voices? Would he have been dismayed by some of the men and women screaming and hollering in the woods around the lake, as if scared of the silence that surrounds them? Would he have rolled his eyes at the lake side Chinese opera performances by people who just shouldn't be allowed to sing (and like me wonder what Simon Cowell would have to say about it)?
Taking the train or bus to Shanghai would he ponder why people were shouting in small hand held devices? If he knew that really there is no need to shout into a mobile phone, and that if you actually you use it in the way it is supposed to be used (e.g. not keeping it at arms lengths and screaming at it!) you can talk in a normal calm way without disturbing anybody around you, what would he say?
Coming to Shanghai how would he have reacted to the commercialism? If he had blond hair and blue eyes he would have noticed how popular he was with the girls in certain touristic districts, until he saw the next blond haired and blue eyed foreigner who, remarkably, would turn out to
Hangzhou
Fishing up old lotus plants be just as popular. He would notice how many girls in different guises, some with a brother they are visiting, some claiming to be students on a little holiday, others daughters travelling with their fathers, would eventually ask him if he knew about the tea-ceremony and if he would like to join them. If he had actually joined them he would have quickly found out it was a scam and he would have been left with a staggering bill. Luckily Master Kong, like me, isn't that simpleminded and he would be polite but firm when declining their offer.
He might have approved of the wealth created, but disapproved of the social gaps and the lack of morals. Though had he seen China 18 years ago he would have noticed a revival of certain values. Nowadays young people do get up for the elderly, the pregnant and the disabled in busses (much more so than in the west) unlike when I visited this country in 1993. That I think would have given him hope for the future. And then he would hear and see the gurgling and spitting and his hope would fail him. Do they all have a terrible
Hangzhou
My friend Ling who I met in Xiamen throat disease he would ask aloud? But again, having travelled here before I would be able to tell him that the gargantuan river of spit that used to be, has really turned into no more than a drip. One used to be able to positively glide over the pavements on a thick and slick layer of saliva. No, things are only getting better on that department.
Going on to Suzhou he might have recognized the little canal towns, though only if he happened to wander into the old part. I suspect he would have lamented the loss of heritage, the replacement of certain splendid old buildings by ugly concrete flats, or the tearing down of a temple only to rebuild it with cheap concrete material so it looks glossy for about a year before the plaster falls from the walls.
Arriving in Nanjing he would have learned about the horrors of the Japanese occupation and before that the arrogance of the western colonial powers when dealing with his beloved country. Unequal treaties, extra-territorial laws making it impossible for Chinese authorities to judge foreigners, opium wars? He would have been disgusted. But how about the current government? What would
Hangzhou
The Grand Canal he have thought about them? Governing through repression and censorship, through use of force if necessary. It would not have been according to his principles, where authority is not enforced but accepted by its virtue. A government should lead through moral example, not force.
Eventually returning back to his home town Qufu, what would he make of that? The history behind his own descendents, who became feudal landlords. Did they rule according to his teachings? What would he have thought about the lavish gifts bestowed on his descendants, the palaces, the lands? Going to his cemetery I think at least he would have liked his own grave, a simple affair, though perhaps the temples and such surrounding it would have been a bit too much. I believe as well that he would appreciate the cemetery itself with its many trees and the peaceful atmosphere.
Would he climb China's most holy mountain, Tai Shan, like me? Or would he call it a day, since he has done it before. Or perhaps he would do what most Chinese do, take the bus to the half way point and start there, or take a cable car all the way to the
Hangzhou
View through an arch top. But if he didn't he might be just as surprised as me to find out that G.W. Bush has also clambered up the 6000 odd steps, at least if you believe the photo I saw from one of the many photographers along the way who want to take of photo of you and the mountain, for a price naturally. And there was Bush, smiling and giving a big thumbs up!
Finally he would arrive in Qingdao, learn about the time it was a German treaty port and frown. Then he would hear about the German brewery that turned into a Chinese brewery and became the countries most popular brand, both internally and externally. He would have a drink and make a list of things he liked and didn't like about the future of his country. Maybe he would go to the toilet after that beer and read some words carved into the door and arch his eyebrows in surprise as it would claim to be a quote from him: 'Confucius says: go to bed with itchy bum, wake up with smelly finger!'
"That's no saying of mine, but I like it!" He would exclaim and have another Tsingtao.
Hangzhou
Arches and eves at night
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