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The entire time I was on the bus, I kept running different scenarios through my head and finally decided that to make the best amount of my time in Xi'an I could and would hike up Huashan that night! With Sam's help, I found the right bus and while they checked out the city wall, I packed my bags and got on the bus. I was the only white person on the bus, ha. But a Chinese girl about my age, 21, could actually speak some English and practiced with me, while she tried to show me how to write characters better and corrected my tones. At the very least, I learned how to say poncho "Yu yu" properly. Though it did get a bit annoying, considering I probably needed to catch some sleep on the bus since I wasn't going to see any for 36 hours!
When we got off the bus, some tour guide/official showed us the different routes of Huashan and probably gave some good advice, but it was all in Chinese so I only comprehended about 1/10th of it, haha. I had two different groups ask/suggest that I go with them to be safe, but I
At the Entrance Gate to Huashan
After about a 2km hike up from the roadreally wanted to hike it alone to fully take in the views and the majestic scenery without people constantly talking. Also, I hate walking with someone who I know is anxious and is trying to think of something to say constantly to fill the supposed awkwardness. Therefore, I thanked them politely for their request (had to lie to one group) and then hurried up the mountain. One lone hiker (who spoke a little English) managed to keep pace with me, but kept telling to slow down or I'd get to East Peak to soon and would be freezing. Although he turned out to be completely right, I sped up to leave him behind and then tried to avoid certain groups. I actually backtracked every now and then so I could walk along each different path, stay warm, stay awake, and get some good exercise.
It felt so good shirtless, nice and cool breeze, much lighter pack than I brought to Huangshan - just a 1.5 Liter of water, muffins, dried kiwi, poncho, and shirts. The bottom of the trail was very quiet and tranquil, the trail following a river or large stream with a few bird calls every now
and then. However, as the mountains and ridges came into view like dark shadows outlined against the slimly moonlit sky, the scenery acquired a very majestic feeling and I stopped every now and then to close my eyes and listen to the wind. Right before the first set of serious stairs is a rock aptly named Changing Mind Rock haha. Although, seeing the steep incline just psyched me up! I took several pictures at night...but very few turned out, so at the bottom of this blog you'll be able to see a few of the location/paths I will mention.
Taoists know this as the mountain of wealth, wealth being measured by the diversity of species living on the land. Consequently, HuaShan has been worshipped as a site of natural abundance for many centuries, possibly for millennium. It is one of the five Taoist sacred mountains of China. The most dangerous path on Huashan, the cliffside from North Peak to South Peak has been closed off permanently (I didn't see any other path) and most of the other paths have been made safer since the 1990's.
As I started progressing up the path to North Peak (check the map
Waterfall
You can get a sense of how dark it was from this picture, but I could distinguish much more detail picture), the "street"lights started getting fewer and sparser. However, the lights still made for some beautiful scenery in contrast to the dark sky and mountain outline. You could see them along higher paths through some tree gaps, but it was definitely more surprising to sight them from above - and fun to connect the dots! One pattern from above the thousand foot precipice looked like the big dipper, ha. I ran into another group of Chinese students - Amos and friends, who I actually enjoyed talking to and traveled with until after Thousand Foot Precipice. The Thousand Foot Valley and path we had just finished was pretty enduring and I felt bad that they were getting exhausted trying to keep my pace, so I conveyed to them that I wanted to experience the sunrise and some spots alone and we parted. Even if I was going slightly fast, I did stop often in scenic locations and enjoy the mountain...I didn't rush too much, ha, so don't throw none of that "you always go too fast" crap at me, ha.
At North/Yuntai Summit, I stopped to confirm the paths and tried to reach the peak but the only "actual" path
to it was closed for the day. They're trying to reduce the number of deaths on the mountain and close the more accessible peaks after 10pm. It was 1:30am, took me about 2 hours from the West Gate entrance to North Peak. After eating some of my dried kiwi and a muffin, I headed up Ear Touching Cliff and passed two terraces - "Queen's Palace" and "Life-Saving Terrace" - tranquilly amazing atmospheres at both. I naturally got as close to the edge as I could and relaxed for a second.
I never found Heaven's Ladder (probably was on the path near Flying-Fish Ridge), but Black Dragon Ridge ("Green" on the map) wasn't hard to miss - it was lit by a string of red lights! At this point, my body finally started acknowledging that exhaustion can't be hidden simply by muffins...so I took a vitamin, ha. Also, I finally put a shirt on, the breeze was making it kinda cold. Although I started going slower up the path - "pacing" myself - I still had to jog/run up/down sidepaths or do a handstand every now and then to regain energy and excitement, umm if that makes sense.
At
Kittie!!
Chilling atop some water bottles Wuyun Summit (the peak was closed...=( ), 1 hour from North Peak, I met four Dutch graduate students who could speak perfect English and hiked with them. They could keep a decent pace and I chatted with one about his graduate studies (CS - graphics and stuff). It only took about 50-60 minutes to reach East Peak from Wuyun, after passing this awesome ladder of stairs (check pic)! My pace separated me from the Dutch group, but I'd run into them again. I was finally at the sunrise observation area after a very interesting and memorable hike! Oh and gum is a lifesaver btw! (Check next blog for Huashan continued)
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Derryl
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I typed in "bus to hua'shan peak" on Google so I could plan my own trip later this month... and this came up, haha. Your blog is so popular!