Winter Holiday - Part 5- Siem Reap

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After much debate and consideration, we decided to fly from Bangkok to Siem Reap rather than take the bus/taxi. It was the most expensive flight that we had, but in the end decided that we didn't want a 10 hour bus trip and made it an anniversary present to ourselves to fly. (Number 30!) I regret that we didn't do much local transportation on our trip, but maybe next time we will be more adventurous. Rumour has it that the Bangkok Airways pays the government not to fix the roads. They are so bad and the ride so uncomfortable that people would rather pay extra to fly. Next time we would arrange our trip so that we did not leave from Bangkok, as there are many other border entries.

The tuktuk driver who picked us up at the airport, (Lean) ended up being our driver for the whole time we were in Siem Reap. He would pick us up at whatever time we wanted, set us an agenda for the day, and stay with us until we came home from the bar at night. Different prices for the distance of temples that we saw, some were as far away as 70 km. Up until a couple of years ago, you could rent motor bikes or motor bike drivers, but with the number of accidents that were happening with tourists, that got set aside. I rather think that the govt takes a major tax on tuktuks and taxis so makes more money on the tourists this wat. Our cheapest day was $14 and the most expensive was $30. Some people rent bicycles, but there is a huge distance to travel between temples.

Everything in Siem Reap operates on $US, which suprised us. When we arrived, we changed some Thai baht into local currency and got 53 000 riel - the equivalent of $13 US. No wonder they don't want to use their own currency!


Siem Reap was an interesting place that left us with mixed feelings. The temple complexes are incredible - many going back to the 9th century. Some have had extensive restoration work but some are in their original state. We saw the sunset from the top of a pyramid temple and hiked 40 minutes to see carvings in the rocks at a river. Such a lot of amazing places to see- Angkor Wat being the main attraction. This temple dates from the 12th century - it has undergone extensive renovations and is truly a wonder to see and imagine life during this time. One of our favourites was Ta Prohm. This 12 century temple was chosen to be left in its 'natural' state so that people could see how most of Angkor looked when it was discovered in the 19th century. Another favourite of Gail's was the Kbal Spean waterfall, with images of the gods having been carved directly into the rocks along about a 150 m stretch.


The down side was the poverty and corruption that goes on in Cambodia. The people are so poor people and the disparity between us tourists and the locals was very difficult to deal with. There are children selling goods everywhere and it is such an important part of the family income that it breaks your heart not to buy from them all. Driving to the temples you saw farming families who just barely survive with an average yearly income at about $250 - the price of a hotel room for an evening for some. Y ou know that they did not see any of the money that we were paying enter the temple complex. There are so many orphanages with the children stationed at every temple asking for money also.

We went to a concert on Saturday evening by a Swiss doctor who was asked by the government to open a hospital for children. This facility has grown to 5 hospitals and all are totally free to all children and their families. The statistics about tuberculosis, dengue fever, HIV, burn and accident victims were so sad, but wonderful to know that such a facility exists - 85% by donation- so this was another monetary donation, but one that went to the hospital, not the government.


On Sunday moring, we said goodbye to Lean our tuktuk driver, paid the $50 charge to leave the country and headed to our last stop overnight in Kuala Lumpur.


Our last morning in K.L. was hot and humid, but we dressed in our warmest shorts and sweaters to head back to the cold of northern China. The snow, parkas and winter boots of the people in the Hangzhou airport still surprised us though, and we certainly turned more than a few heads during our 7 hour layover with white shorts, sandals and bare legs! We had contacted our driver, Autumn, by phone a few days before to pick us up in Dalian, but between her poor English and my poor Chinese, we were really hoping that she would be waiting for us. A taxi at that time of night would have been difficult- we were sure glad to see her smiling face and warm car!

Back in Jinshitan, we saw the first of the real Chinese New Year’s - beautiful decorations on the streets- fireworks everywhere - you could see them all over Dalian from the plane. Everywhere here has been shut down. No restaurants, very few shops open and no market - it is like a ghost town. Everyone spends the holiday with family celebrations- food and more food. They travel from one house to another eating, drinking and partying. I read that Chinese New Year’s is the biggest human migration in the world as everyone travels to their homes to be with families for the holiday. One thing that is not lacking is fireworks-never in short supply here, but even more so. Autumn says that their New Year is like our Christmas - great fun for the children, but a lot of work and expense for parents.

Anyway, we are now back in our cold apartment, heat from the main boiler has been shut off to the school and apartment to save money, so we are shivering in sweaters, slippers and have both our small heaters on full blast and quickly fading tans. We have tons of warm memories though, and many pictures to remind us of a great holiday.

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Photos

Anniversary #30
We celebrated our 30th on Pub Street in Siem Reap eating Indian curry. What a great anniverary present this trip has been. And amazingly, we had such a lot of fun together the whole time!

Angkor Wat
This 12th century complex was not only a temple, but also a city. It consists of almost 200 hectares most of which would have been the city. Two causeways cross the large moat surrounding the complex, where you pass through the outer enclosure. The temple itself is a three tiered pyramid, each level having it's own galleries or walled enclosures and towers. We only spent a couple of hours here, but several days would hardly do it justice.

Kbal Spean
This was a 40 minute hike over rocks, boulders and tree roots (along with the occassional ladder). People were totally amazed to see Rick hiking up as fast as most in his cast. It was so hot, that were glad for the cool water of the stream at the top.

Kbal Spean
Just above the waterfall at Kbal Spean and for a 150 m stretch images of gods have been carved into the rocks and directly into the river bed, where you can see them through the shallow water passing over them.

Palm Sugar
Lean had stopped at a roadside stand to show us palm sugar, and we saw this man who had just cut down these coconuts. He was very fast and had incredible upper body strength. The women boil the sap that they collect from the flowers of the palm tree. It is reduced until a syrup, then poured into jars for sale. Some is further reduced and then poured into small forms and sold as candy. It was delicious - very similar to brown sugar fudge. Since we had a definite lack of sugar or anything sweet for the month, it was a big hit.

Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm was also built in the 12th century, as a huge temple monestary complex. It was chosen to be left in a 'natural' state in order that people can imagine what Angkor looked like in the 19th century when it was discovered.

Ta Prohm
Massive silk cotton trees have entwined their roots through much of the stone work, taking hold in any small crevice and working their way through. The trees have become a support for the stones, and when they die, the structure underneath collapses. Some restoration is taking place, especially to make it safe for visitors

Children
There were children everywhere, usually at the gates, but these were sitting on the temple steps. They were looking for either money or 'bonbons'.

Dr. Beat Richner
This Swiss doctor is the countries biggest advocate for children and the health care system. He puts on a concert every Saturday night, playing his cello and making appeals for donations to the children's hospital. The 5 hospitals operate 85% on public donations, with everything free for any child in the country. He is an amazing man and makes you wish you could do more. All my Kiva money will be going to Cambodia.

Comments

[anonymous]

What great things you have seen. Thanks for sharing your trip with us. Glad to see that you had a fun anniversary. BON ANNIVERSAIRE! Rachel

[Lynn Page-Scott]

Amazing
Wow, that's amazing, 30 years! And you guys still look like you're on your first honeymoon! Way to go! It has to be a wonderful travel experience with your significant other of 30 years! Thanks a lot again for sharing. I look forward to your blogs.

[karen Zaitsoff]

Thanks so much for sharing all the beautiful pictures with us. Looks like you two are having a wonderful holiday. Happy 30th Anniversary to you both---Wow-what a way to spend it.