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Published: March 31st 2007
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cozy train
We shared our 4-bed sleeper car with our wonderful Ayi, Angel, who traveled with us as far as her hometown. Ty and Jessie thought they were camping again - snacks in the bunk, scenic window views, little reading lights and books - Good night John Boy. Matt’s in Brazil, Ty and Jessie have vacation. So what’s a mom to do with 2 teenagers who have a week of time on their hands in China? Hmmm, something active. I know, lets climb a mountain! So climb we did. Not anything like what the local porters did, but enough to make all of our little American legs fatigued and ready for rest.
Huangshan, also known as Yellow Mountain, is reputed to be the most lovely mountain in all of China. Rocky, breathtaking, dotted with tenacious odd shaped pines - a play land for those who love to breathe in fresh air while challenging their bodies and stimulating their visual senses. We started our adventure with an 11-hour train ride in a comfy sleeper car, waking to mountain scenery. Passing by peaceful looking simple villages, it was reminiscent of the view of hillbilly shacks out our car window on I75 through Kentucky - only Asian style. People washing clothes in the streams, fields of flowers, cows - a wonderful switch from the city life we lead.
Driving 2 hours from the train station and then ascending 15 minutes straight up in a cable car, we still are
1,000,001...1,000,002...1,000,003...
These porters are nearing the top of their upward mountain haul. Step after step. Once we stepped off the cable car, porters were there to carry our luggage the additional 20 minutes up to the hotel also. Wow! And we were huffing with just our daypacks on our backs! longing to see what our accommodations will be like. An additional 20-minute walk from the cable car up to our hotel places us in 1 of 5 hotels in this preserved region of China. Mostly Asians visit this idyllic spot, but a few foreigners are mixed in from all around the globe. Not many kids and after walking the edges of mountain drop-off’s, legs wobbling at the thought of what lies below, it’s easy to understand why! Aside from the natural beauty, the most amazing sight is watching the “porters” carry goods up and down the mountain using nothing but some flat shoes, strong legs, and a long bamboo pole with their load cantilevered out onto the ends. They trek over 3 hours straight up the mountain and 3 hours back down again hauling anything from the daily hotel bed linens to large oil vats to all the hotel food to miscellaneous supplies to garbage. EVERYTHING needs to be hauled daily, by foot, to both provide work for the local people and also to preserve the mountain from the pollution generated from daily washing or refuse.
Once on the mountain, I can see why Deng Xiaoping earmarked this region
Bei hai hotel
Felt like a lodge. The hardest beds we've ever slept on. Nonetheless, the food was plentiful, unusual, and tasty and the ambiance was peaceful. for preservation. The Chinese have constructed paved pathways and aesthetic guardrails along many routes in the mountains. Not so tall, the highest peak being around the elevation of Denver, the mountain is nonetheless remarkable for it’s rugged nature. Also interesting is how much the Chinese people appreciate the natural beauty. Is it because so many of them live in heavily populated cities with few views of blue skies? On our morning sunrise hike, we were surrounded by hundreds of camera toting Asians who were willing to rise at 5:30am to view the sunrise over the mountain. First sight of the sun brought audible oohs and ahhs and excited chatter. Have we Americans lost a bit of our innocent awe of our natural resources? I wonder as I note, as I have noted many times in China, the enthusiasm that the Chinese people show toward simple things.
After enjoying the mountain for a day or so, we head back down and visit two 800-year-old villages, Hongcun and Xidi. We pass by hillsides dotted with tea plantations and by mountain streams and fields of “rapeseed” - the plant used to make canola oil. In the village of Hongcun, we enjoy a
Locked in love
Huangshan tradition offers lovers a chance to "lock their love" with a personalized padlock hung on the guard chain. The key? Of course, tossed over the edge to the valley far below. “local” lunch. My first taste of bamboo. Wow! Enough words - enjoy the pictures!
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