Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge

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Before I came to Cambodia, I confess that I knew very little about Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. I remember vague news reports as a child of the attrocities being committed and the famine that was gripping the country. I also knew that the Khmer Rouge leader, Pol Pot (or Brother Number 1, amongst various other names) was a tyrant and killed countless people in his own country. But Until I came here I didn't understand the true depth and horror of the genocide that took place.

But that's one of the reasons we go travelling. To understand and appreciate what has gone on in the past of countries so that we can gain an understanding and feel for the people.

In the four years that the Khmer Rouge were in power ('75-'79) it is estimated that up to 3 million people died as a direct result of the Khmer Rouge regime. The total population of Cambodia at the time was only 7 million, a mind boggling percentage.

Within Cambodia, two places offer a partial insight into this nightmare - They are Tuol Sleng (or S-21), and The Killing Fields.

Before the Khmer Rouge regime, S-21 was a High School. When the Khmer Rouge were in power, they changed it into an interrogation camp and over the years of its use, up to 20,000 victims were brought here. Out of this number, only 7 live to tell the tale of what went on. Victims were kept here for several months in tiny cells, were beaten mercilessly, tortured until the 'confessed' and then eventually sent to the Killing fields for processing.

Every victim who was brought to S-21 was photographed, and around the site there are chilling displays of the victims arrival photos. The look on their faces says it all, and they know that there is no escape for them.

Why were they here? They were alleged "enemies of the regime" Anyone who could possibly pose a threat to the Khmer Rouge. Academics, politicians, doctors, lawyers. Anyone with a brain who might try to stand up and fight. Foreigners were brought here too. Before they were all taken to the Killing fields.

Until I came to Cambodia, I thought that the Killing Fields were a battle ground in Vietnam that was a legacy of the Vietnam war (Or as the Vietnamese call it, the American war!) However, I soon found out that the killing fields were the mass dumping grounds for the bodies of the victims of Khmer Rouge. There are killing fields all over Cambodia.

The one I visited, Choeung Ek, contains up to 20,000 bodies, and is extremely moving. The remains of the victims are on display in a memorial stupa, and around the site you can see the mass graves, as well as clothes and bodies.

The whole experience of S-21 and the Killing Fields is emotionally exhausting, harrowing and horrific. But its also a necessary thing to do, both to understand what went on, and also as a mark of respect to the victims. An incredible 40% of Cambodians are under the age of 15, and the country that they are growing up into is trying to come to terms with its past whilst not forgetting it.

Politics at the moment in Cambodia is extremely corrupt and the situation almost unbelievable. The current Prime Minister has managed to exile the leader of the opposition, after accusing him of some spurious charge. The current Government therefore have no effective opposition. They also totally control the army, too. In 2007, there are supposed to be democratic elections, but the twin threat of a lack of opposition and a Government that controls the military, means little is likely to change. One prospect not even worth thinking about is the current regime taking total control and returning to the dictatorship nightmare of the past.

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Photos

S-21 bed and flower
One of the interrogation beds, with iron shackles to secure the feet. Someone has left a flower here as tribute, this is the custom in Cambodia.

S-21
When the Khmer Rouge evacuated S-21 because of the Vietnamese invasion, 14 bodies were found mutilated in the interrogation cells. These bodies were laid to rest in the courtyard of S-21.

S-21 graves
They serve as a poignant and 'real' reminder of the horror that took place here.

S-21 orders
The prisoners were starved, to make them weak, so they would obey every command. If they disobeyed, they were cruelly beaten. They even had to ask permission to go to the loo in their cell, or if they could move their sleeping position.

S-21the gallows
One of the many tortures that took place here, to extract 'Confessions' from the victims. Victims were kept here for several months before they were sent to the killing fields...

S-21the child victims
Children came here too. Members of 'Guilty' families. In the Khmer Rouge, a 'guilty' person could simply be someone who is a doctor, an academic or an engineer. Anyone who could be 'guilty' of having a enough intelligence to cause a threat to the regime.

S-21courtyard
It was a school before it became S-21

S-21barbed wire
The buildings were covered in barbed wire. Why? See the next picture.....

S-21cell
One prisoner per cell.

moped driver!
Just a bit of light hearted relief! Spotted this on the way to the killing fields. you see some crazy things on mopeds - people carrying panes of glass, mattresses and whole families. My favourite is seeing a family of six on a single moped - 5 on the seat and the baby in the basket at the front!

Killing Fields - skulls
So far they've recovered the remains of over 8,200 victims, which are on display in the memorial to serve as a chilling reminder of the genoicide.

Killing Fields - clothes
Piles of clothes from the victims.

Killing Fields - shelves of skulls
Around 20 shelves full of remains fill the memorial stupa.

Killing Fields - skulls
Most skulls have horrific injuries. Bullets were too expensive, so victims were forced to kneel, blindfolded and bound, next to a mass grave. Then, the executioner would smash them at the back of the head one by one....