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NOTE: Our journey through Siem Reap is best described as three distinct stages, two of which have changed our lives forever. The first part is standard enough (at least as standard as the largest religious buildings in the world can be) and describes the majestic Angkor temples of Cambodia. The second part is unexpected, and describes a tragedy no visitor in any country, especially a 'developing' one, will ever want to experience (Click here for Part II). The final part is our attempt to pull the pieces back together in an effort marked by compassion, corruption, and finally, closure (Click here for Part III). All three stories stand on their own but should be read consecutively. Start with the first entry and then follow the links at the end to each subsequent one. 020a - Cambodia - Siem Reap Part I
05/24/08 - 05/28/08
The Majestic Angkor Temples
The majestic temples of Angkor (just outside Siem Reap) are the spiritual center of Cambodia and mark the capital of the ancient Khmer empire. Tourists and locals from all over the world gather here and pursue their 'Tomb Raider' fantasies as they explore these impressive artifacts. There is a sense of pride in many of
the locals we spoke with, as if they were saying, 'Yes, we've had a rough history, and yes, we may be a developing country, but take a look at what we built!' Can't argue with that!
After reading the guide books we knew that the best way to explore the temples would be by hiring a driver to take us around. We also wanted someone that spoke English fairly well, was friendly, and offered his services at a good price. So, the first day and a half we spent exploring Siem Reap and 'interviewing' random tuk-tuk and motorbike drivers. Finally, we found the perfect driver!
His name was Saveth and he was a 31 year old local Cambodian from Batambang that used to be a monk. He had a great smile and was very endearing with us, often times sharing stories from his family and monk hood experiences and taking us to spots that only locals knew about.
The first day we started off at Angkor Thom and explored the second most famous temple in the area, Bayon. This temple is characterized by giant towers decorated with enormous smiling faces. Apparently they are the faces of Avalokiteshvara
but bare a resemblence to Cambodia's famous king, Jayavaram VII, who built many of the temples in the Angkor area. We explored many other sites that day and ended at Phnom Bakheng to watch the sunset. This was an exhausting 12 hour day of temple sightseeing!
The next day we woke up early and headed to Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise. Angkor Wat is the mother of all temples and is considered the largest religious structure in the world. Seeing it at sunrise provides softer lighting and makes for some great photos... it's also much cooler than it is in the midday sun which makes the early morning wakeup call worthwhile. The enormous stone carvings are impressive when looking at them from a distance, and equally amazing in their intricate detail when examining them up close.
That night we went to see a short film on the works of a doctor in then Siem Reap area known as Beatocello. Dr. Beat Richner claims that the inadequate response of the World Health Organization (WHO) to the medical needs of Cambodian citizens (especially children) results in many unnecessary death For this reason, he opened (and actively runs) three children's
hospitals in Cambodia that are state of the art (even by western standards) and yet free for any Cambodian children to use. His criticisms of WHO and UNICEF appear to be sound and his efforts have saved the lives of thousands of Cambodian children. Every week he performs with his cello (hence the nickname Beatocello) to an audience of visitors (mainly Westerners) in an attempt to gain funding for his cause. Hannah and I both believe in this effort and would recommend you check it out,
beatocello.com.
On the third and final day of our 3-day temple pass, we decided to venture out of the central Angkor area to Kbal Spean, also known as the 'River of a Thousand Lingas'. There are elaborate stone carvings of Hindu deities in the riverbed and surrounding boulders - including a bathtub above the waterfall for the king to bathe in. This site was a refreshing change of pace for us because of its natural setting deep inside a lush jungle mountain, with a waterfall and wildlife all around.
Unfortunately, we won't remember Kbal Spean for its elaborate riverbed carvings or natural setting, but rather, for the life-altering event that would transpire
as we made our way down the mountain.
The story continues in Part II, Tragedy in Cambodia. Click here).
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