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Published: February 21st 2011
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Visiting the Angkor Sites
First stop on the tour was to buy the entrance ticket - $20 for one day, $40 for 3 consecutive days and $40 for 3 days in a week. Despite asking Samnang and the ticket booth people, Monk still fails to understand exactly why there are 2 types of 3-day tickets given that the '3 days in a week' ticket also serves the purpose of 3 consecutive days.
The ticket procedure is very efficent and includes a photograph being taken and printed on the pass - so be warned - if you want to keep the ticket as a souvenir, a hair brush after the tuk-tuk ride and a bit of lippy will save you embarassment in the years to come.
Samnang suggested skipping Angkor Wat today and moving straight on to Angkor Thom before the crowds got there. Angor Thom is the large city area of 10 square km surrounded by an enormous wall with its 5 grand entrance gates. Inside are a number of major temple sites. Each of the temple sites is incredible in different ways. With some, it's the sheer size of the structures and the engineering involved in constructing
them. In other cases, it's the delicate bas-reliefs and other decorative carvings. The Bayon with its towers topped with sinister-looking smiling faces. The Baphuon and its meticulous reconstruction after several collapses over the past century. Preah Palilay with its trees entwined around the ancient stones. Even though the major sites in Angkor Thom can be heaving, just wandering off the beaten track to some of the 'lesser' sites can bring the reward of peace and quiet away from the endless human 'trains' of organised Korean tourists. Of course, Nellie and Monk were duty bound to pay homage at the Terrace of the Elephants.
Samnang took us to yet more temples after leaving Angkor Thom on a roundabout route back to Siem Reap. Again, all fabulous in their right. Ta Prohm is probably one of the most recognised with enormous tree routes growing from and sprawling across the walls of the temple - all very atmospheric and spooky. Film buffs would probably recognise many of the scenes from 'Tomb Raider'. In one area of the temple, a special stage has been constructed so that photographs can be taken in front of the now-famous backdrop.
Another early start next day
saw Nellie and Monk tuk-tuking for 32 kms up to Banteay Srei, a temple built from a particularly pink-tinged stone. It was worth the ride, the carvings on just about every wall, column or doorway are exquisite and in such delicate detail. The ride out and back is interesting in itself for passing through many bustling villages and beautiful stretches of countryside.
Back in the Angkor area, Monk asked Samnang to take us to Preah Khan - another out-of-this-world large site. Even though it ranks as one of the major sites, for some reason it seems to be off the beaten track and over the entire site for the hour or so Monk was there, he encountered less than a dozen other visitors. This solitude amongst such atmospheric surroundings made the visit magical.
Finally, as the last stop of the day, Angkor Wat, the most famous of all the sites and usually the first site on visitors' lists. It is beautiful, it is huge and its setting is unsurpassed. Its bas-relief carvings should not be missed. However, it's probably heresy to say so, but Monk felt it was all a bit too grand and lacked the initimate character
of some of the other sites. Maybe visiting it first on a trip would burn an impression into the brain that would cause the other sites to seem pale in comparison. Doing it last possibly allows for a more balanced view.
The previous evening, Monk had decided that on their third day, they would rent a bike and pedal down to Tonle Sap Lake. Samnang had to be sacked - let go - shown the door - given his marching orders. Monk felt a bit guilty that he'd originally led him to believe that he'd have 3 days of driving for Monk and Nellie. Samnang took it well - helped by a reasonable tip from Monk.
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