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Published: December 3rd 2010
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I had to wait for the rain to stop before fighting the gauntlet of safari touts. I hadn’t even reached Arusha yet but it began “Hello! Free Information! Free Help!” They’d say. “Don’t need your help mate” I’d reply. “Why Not?” “Because eventually you’ll say you know this Safari Company. You’ll bring out a business card…” This banter would continue until they’d give up following me as I walked on.
This one guy followed me however (showed in his opinion) all the way to the bus I already knew of. He says he ‘doesn’t want any money’ but this is tourism in the Tanzanian mountains. I knew this would be the case so with this I decided to not double it up with Zanzibar Island instead going for the alternative and do Pemba Island.
I heard that Pemba is pretty good for diving so I headed off there and discovered another African instalment of majority Islamic culture. Known for its spices namely cloves, there are 3 million trees there. The Islamic culture came here from Oman immigrants.
Pemba is known for its political violence and the elections were completed a few days earlier. Chake Chake – the capital
- was buzzing with noise as both parties agreed to give each other power of some sort so this celebration was seen throughout Tanzania.
Diving is in the north of the island and to get there you catch the dalla dalla. A kind of extended Ute which is covered meaning your view throughout the drive (squashed in the back) is a restricted panoramic. What you can see are palm trees and small villages with locals wearing their Islamic hats and females wearing the burka. An awkward moment occurred when I realised my fly was undone and I was sitting next to a burka wearing lady. Pemba is very conservative. In fact there is no place to purchase alcohol… Unless you go underground in the alleyways of Chake Chake.
Interesting about woman and babies on public transport in Africa is when a mother is struggling for balance. Another lady will take over and carry the baby until the mother is more stable – This can be for 2 hours in some cases. That would never happen in Australia. They would go “What are you doing! Don’t you touch my baby! Paedophile!”
Pemba’s diving is renowned for its wall
and drift diving. But sadly my experience was ordinary and apart from some nice coral there was nothing too much to talk about. I took a flight in and out and my flight out was on a 13-seater plane with no co-pilot, which was reassuring.
I headed to Moshi the town that is at the foot of a mountain called Kilimanjaro. I didn’t climb it because Africa’s mountain hikes are a rip off so to get some cred. I moved onto Arusha and cut out 2 of 3 Tanzanian must sees. And was off for the Serengeti, Ngoro Ngoro Crater.
Arusha is only about 90 minutes away and because of that distance the touts are out in force. Including the guy who ‘helped’ me find the bus I already knew was waiting.
I entered the bus and sat in the back seat next to the window and he tells me. “You have to pay this guy” Some fat guy standing next to him. “Why would I pay him for? He is standing there with you?” On the bus he comes with a ticket book. I say “I am not paying you now. I will pay you at
the same time as everyone else.” “No you have to pay now.” He scribbles on a ticket and hands it over.
“How much is it?”
“5000”
I already checked the guidebook. It was 2000.
“No-no I’m not paying that much. It’s 2000 that’s all I am paying.”
“But the baggage.”
The other guy outside, “No you have to pay him now.”
“Why so you and your friend can get some money off me? 1000 here, 1000 there. Go away.”
I shut the window in front of his face - To the amusement of the locals. The fake ticket man is at me again. I go “No go away” and wave him away with my backhand.
Silence surrounds the bus. I decide to brake it “I think I am doing pretty good for myself.” The locals all turn laugh and start giving me props with knuckles connecting. Despite that great moment I noticed the difference of Southern Africa to East Africa. The people of Southern Africa you could trust, they were friendlier and they looked out for your well being. I have, only subtly, reached a new part of Africa.
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