Blogs from Pemba, Tanzania, Africa
Back on the road, after the North of Pemba, time to head to the Fundu Lagoon located in the South of the Island for some Robinson Crusoe experience! The Fundu Lagoon is a very special place, awarded best beach safari in Africa, a place to dream of pirates and treasure, and castaways while enjoying the surrounding nature & pristine silky beach. But just like a hidden jewel, the journey to this piece of Paradise isn’t quite an easy one and this even more in our case as we were coming from the exact opposite! From North to South, we were on for a three hours drive across the island (from airport, it takes about one hour) & as the resort is only accessible by boat although still located on the Pemba peninsula, an additional 25 mn ... read more
Going to Pemba feels like reaching the end of the world but if I had to do it again I would not hesitate a second… This island located within the Zanzibar Archipelago off the coast of Tanzania is truly one of these place where you feel like you have discovered a hidden jewel, untouched by tourism & where the environment both above and under the water has kept all its beauty. Known a little bit amongst the divers thanks to the famous marine reserve surrounding Misali island, a 20 mn speed boat ride from the South of Pemba, it is still today a very remote & untouched destination. The number of proper resorts on the island says it all, found six of them including one “hotel” where the only comment on the tripadvisor was “they stole ... read more
I had to wait for the rain to stop before fighting the gauntlet of safari touts. I hadn’t even reached Arusha yet but it began “Hello! Free Information! Free Help!” They’d say. “Don’t need your help mate” I’d reply. “Why Not?” “Because eventually you’ll say you know this Safari Company. You’ll bring out a business card…” This banter would continue until they’d give up following me as I walked on. This one guy followed me however (showed in his opinion) all the way to the bus I already knew of. He says he ‘doesn’t want any money’ but this is tourism in the Tanzanian mountains. I knew this would be the case so with this I decided to not double it up with Zanzibar Island instead going for the alternative and do Pemba Island. I heard ... read more
10 years Diving in Pemba Island, oh and Merry Christmas....
Published: March 5th 2010Africa » Tanzania » PembaThis morning, I surfaced from a dive, and realised that I really needed to write about it. Cisca and I had been camping on Kashani Island with my friends Steve and Huw. Cisca had chivied us into doing an early morning dive. Steve had acquiesced and we hopped into the water on Devils wall. We found ourselves at 27m snooping around an overhang full of glassfish. The lighting and marine life was serene. We ascended slowly towards a coral reef at 6 metres that was more abundant than any aquarium. Finally we surfaced to find our coxswain Mkanda waiting patiently on the glass calm water. This was Pemba, and Pemba for swahili divers after 10 years of operations. For on the 27th October 2009, we celebrated our 10th birthday of operations in Pemba. I remember ... read more
Switching off after 3 months South Sudan Oh to escape after 3 months trying to get stuff going, it was a pleasure to get on the plane out of Juba on the morning of 14th November and make it to Nairobi. Picked up from the airport by a good friend and driven to a lovely house in Karen, to eat good cheese and sit in civility surrounded by a green garden with flowers and trees full of birds, so very different from my tent in a dusty yard in Juba. I had one night in Nairobi before going back to the airport in the morning to meet my dive buddy who was flying in from the UK, before boarding a Precision Air flight for Zanzibar and then after a few hours wait another flight to paradise ... read more
Slowing down, calming down and blowing bubbles..... After the totally hectic dash to get to the plane, fly through what remained of the night and get to Kenya, to hop on another plane quick smart to head to Dar (having completely forgotten there are direct flights to Zanzibar, which would have saved $150 or so in flights) then a taxi transfer to Terminal 1 for a ZanAir flight to Chake-Chake in Pemba, I had enough time to breathe, grab a delicious bowl of beans and rice at the little cafe down the road and find out that I had enough time for a taxi ride to the local market for a hair-cut and beard trim. Always an interesting experience, getting ones haircut in a local barber in Africa, the guys are never quite sure how to ... read more
The aircraft lined up on the end of the runway. The pilot was making sure that every inch of Pemba’s 5000ft runway was available to him. “Pemba tower, this is 5 hotel delta alfa kilo. Twenty six souls on board, destination Zanzibar, flight level two five” “Alfa kilo, Pemba tower, confirmed Zanzibar, flight level two five” The balding Pilot turned to his bald co pilot and said: “full brakes” “full brakes” Captain Tony Baxter eased the throttles forward and the twin Pratt and Whitney wasps spluttered and growled. He glanced at the oil pressure gauges. Waited some seconds and, seemingly satisfied nodded at the young first officer. “release brakes” he commanded. “release brakes” confirmed First officer Savic. With a very gentle roll. The aircraft bounced and wobbled forward. The wasps spluttered more, and Baxter’s knuckles were ... read more
Dear Readers, and friends of Pemba, it is hard for me to write this, as of course there will be some negative connotations attatched to this blog. But those of you who read this blog on a regular basis will know that I live on Pemba and that I am contantly in awe of the incredible and unspoiled underwater environment that exists here on our paradise island. True, we do have our problems and yes true the greed of man gets in the way of conservation, but in general. Pemba is still an incredible dive location. One of the world's top 10 untouched coral reefs. The time to visit Pemba is clearly now. But we have been attacked. An assault has been made on the pristine nature of Pemba. Not by a dynamite weilding African, or ... read more
When our Boeing 747-400 slammed down onto the runway at Heathrow, we were roused from our semi sleep. Cisca and I now had to get to Birmingham with all of our kit for the Birmingham Dive Show. We had enjoyed the US, but now it was time to get back to work. We spent two days talking to potential Pemba Divers and old friends who dropped by to say hello and sample our beer. When the show ended it was back on BA046 and yet another night flight to Dar es Salaam. BA were fine, but when we left terminal 5, we were sent to a gate with a bus. This was inspite of there being many aerobridge gates free. "Oh well, no fuss" I thought, I don't mind busses. We waited and waited in the ... read more
The rains have come to Pemba, but not quite to us. Thunder booms and rumbles to our south. The sky is filled with heavy clouds but the sun beats down on us relentlessly. We have officially closed. Our last guests, a splendid pair of birdwatchers from Canada departed this morning. We have started packing up and the dive centre and kayaks are all inside the building. Stuart has been pulling gearboxes off engines, in the hope that we can find out what has gone wrong with the cooling systems of all our 60 horse power Yamaha engines. Eventually the last hidden bolt came out and the box slid off. In the last few weeks the Zanzibar Government has been hounding us for small issues, and more unpleasantly for non issues. The pressure has been building up ... read more





































