Shiwa Ngandu and beyond

07.06.07

6:00 in the morning we left the African Parks house in Kalabo for the ride home. Still pitch black outside we navigated withy GPS to the entrance of the dirt road that would lead us back to Sitoti and further to Katima Molilo (Zambian Side). There is no petrol station before Livingstone at all, so we calculated hard and decided we would make it. Well, we arrived on the vapour in Livingstone. What a ride again. A shortcut turned out to be waterlogged and we had to double back another 50 Km through very deep sand. Once again, the local people are openly friendly and helpful. Sitting on our bonnet an old man directed us through thick bush and sandy foot paths to a track that eventually would connect to a more recent track. One must understand that a track is not a road and may change its course any time and certainly from year to year. What was dry and drivable last year may be a river bed this year. So the locals drive the way of least resistance and create new and multiple versions of “the track”. After almost 13hours we arrived tired and hungry at Kabula lodge and were greeted by a joyful Kenister who immediately recognized us and had a fire going in less than 10 minutes. After a few ice cold beers we felt so much better and had an early night. Although there could have been the possibility to cross the Zambezi at Sitoti and then track north again, we said, being so far south again, we might as well stay a few days in Livingstone. It was a delightful stay at Livingstone. We first went to the Spar in town to stock up our supplies, do the banking etc (amazingly one can draw several times the maximum amount from the ATM), only to find out that the new Superspar had opened its doors on the other end of town with Woolworth like standards and pleasant aircon. Clean shelves and attentative staff and of course a much better variety of goods then the one in town.
We choose Marana Lodge right at the river to relax and clean up our landi, who by now is a covered in dust and sand. It took the whole afternoon to do the interior alone, but it was worth it. Last night while dining at the lodge restaurant a hippo was seen at the campsite. Indeed a huge hippo, it’s back as high as the top of our window, was grazing peacefully next to our landrover scratching its side at our folded out kitchen. An unbelievable sight. The camera flash wasn’t strong enough and we really did not want to go any closer. These cuddly looking animals are among the most dangerous of the African wild.
08-06-07
The following day we added as well. The hippo did not rock up but a herd of elephant showed up instead right outside the gate. They are impressive particularly when one is on foot (a Segway isn’t by far fast enough for these animals that can do 40Km/h in deep sand). All our laundry done, the tanks filled to the brim we started for the Great North Road. The first 50Km are pothole riddled but then improve to an immaculate first world road through the African bushveld. We had an overnight stay at the Forest Inn where we encountered a bunch of happy Christians from the USA singing songs and are apparently on a medical supply mission. The campsite is green and as the name suggests situated in a forest, but campfires and hot water were a no - no, which put a damper on our mood as one really looks forward to a hot shower after along days drive. We made our own supper and decided to leave early the next day.
09-06-07
After a good nights sleep, (we sleep on an air mattress which is extremely comfortable and takes no space when deflated) we hit the road again. All along the way the rural people are offering their produce, but always identical to the previous village, until there is a break and a new line of produce is on offer. So for many kilometres tomatoes were on offer, tens of thousands of them, but only tomatoes nothing else, then for a stretch of 20 or 30 kilometres it is sweet potatoes, the another stretch it is honey or wood work or something else. We wondered what happens to all those tomatoes, which have a very short shelf live in the hot climate in the evening. Even an extended family cannot eat that amount of tomatoes since all neighbours have exactly the same.
The road stretches indefinitely and mostly uphill (one notices those fine details in a landrover, as the “top” speed drops from 105 km/h to 60 km/h). After passing the hospital in which Alistair had his broken wrist set by Dr.Pauline we encountered one of the many police roadblocks. This one was special, as the two uniformed cops came provocatively slow and with an attitude. Drivers license, temporally import permit for the car, check on reverse light, brake light etc. was far more than all other road blocks had asked together. A light went up in the face of the policeman after he had figured out that my international driver’s license was expired. The lights went off when I produced a second newer one with a big smile. He got the massage and let us pass. Only 200 Meters further another roadblock, this time by the municipality highway robber unit (they apparently are authorized to collect road tax or levy). Well, we had to pay 10 000Kwatcha (about 2,5$US) for a 1 ton vehicle (the landrover weighs in at about 3ton) before we could continue. Finally we arrived at Shiwa Ngandu, for those of you who have not read the book about it (The Africa House), it is an Englishman’s live dream become reality. He built an English farm and manor house miles away from civilisation and developed an eccentric live style. The farm was producing oils from plants and had an extensive master plan for up liftment of the local community. His daughter continued these ambitions when she and her husband took over the property. In the 1990 they were both murdered, apparently by ANC hit man. The murderers were apprehended and jailed and are all not alive anymore (1 hanged, 1 died of Aids, two were murdered in jail). All this we know from one of the grandsons Mark, who is running a campsite Kapisha on the vast farm. Very idyllic right between the edge of the river and a natural lovely hot spring in lush gardens are he and Mel, his girlfriend busy building their own dream. We know them from our last trip to Malawi, and they instantly recognized us and are sending their best greetings to Andrew and Alistair, Roger and Pauline (our then travel mates). We had a wonderful dinner with them and sat long into the evening, talking about the past and the future. We camp on the campsite right at the water’s edge and I get around with my Segway (which creates smiling faces all around, each time I show up). We took of course a lingering bath in the hot springs before supper.
10-06-07
Today we are lazy and read and play rummy, eat and sit at our campfire and enjoy the fast flowing river right in front of us. A short hello to Roger, Andrew and John (chef on oude Wellington) by Sat phone (courtesy of Jacu) to let you all know that we are fine and enjoying our trip. Shiwa Ngandu will be the last place known to us. From here all is new and unknown to us. We read up about Tanzania and have heard mostly good things and we are full of expectations what awaits us.
11-06-07
We decided to stay yet another day and indulge in Mel’s cooking skills tonight. That way we can pack up everything still tonight and be ready to go early in the morning. It is about 300Km of apparently bad road ahead to the border and the border crossing may also take some time.

16.06.07

We have crossed into Tanzania and arrived in a wonderful country. The people are friendly and much more active and colourful. The villages are busteling. The internet connection is very slow, so I make it short and sweet. More photos next time. The attached ones are from Zambia still. Thanks for all the wellwishes from our friends world wide ! we are doing fine and have agreat time.

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