Blogs from Sudan, Africa - page 8
We never found any statue to General Gordon - sadly. But we were thankful to leave Khartoum and get on with our journey so were up and away by 8 o’clock. It was easy to get out of the city, shopping and fuelling up as we did so. But once away, when I was leading, we went horribly wrong and despite the helpful directions from non English speaking locals (who sent us in the totally wrong direction) we found ourselves out in the scrubby desert amongst endless hovel villages with never a moments sight of tarmac anywhere. We were totally lost amongst a maze of tracks, none of which seemed to lead in any sensible direction! To resolve this we headed NORTH, back towards Khartoum, in the firm belief that we would eventually hit some ... read more
3rd - 4th November The authorities in Khartoum had changed the venue of the major bus station. Result? Total traffic chaos! Ian and Jeremy took their cars off first thing to the Toyota agent who was extremely helpful. They sorted out Jeremy’s car’s electrics which have been giving endless trouble. A new battery was part of the equation. Ian’s car was put on the ramp only to find that the extra fuel tank had just about broken free. It took a little longer to fix this - two days - as the tank had be removed completely and brackets replaced and/or strengthened. However, in the end all was well. Except that it took about an hour and a half to do the journey to and from the garage when normally it would be a matter of ... read more
Day 50! While breaking camp we saw a flock of sand grouse fly over us - an evocative sight, really reinforcing the fact that we are in the tropics and getting nearer the equator. Off south on the toll road to Khartoum we stopped briefly to look at the pyramids of Meroe. We never stopped the cars’ engines as we were besieged by hassling touts on their camels wanting money and biros. Not really the best way to attract the tourist we feel. Our next objective was The Sixth Cataract, rapids in the Nile some 60 miles north of Khartoum. With the help of GPS navigation, verbal directions and a lot of luck we managed to find the right track to the Cataract where we found that the tourist infrastructure was in its birth pains. Lots ... read more
It took us ages to get onto the right road for Atbara. The eventual route was nothing akin to that shown on our maps. In fact a spanking new highway has been recently constructed across the desert more or less in a straight line from a point some 5 miles or so below the ferry crossing. When asking directions everyone was positive in saying “The road is just down there and you turn left”. It was and we did. And it was a superb road, sometimes a little difficult to follow because of sand being blown across. But the views otherwise were great, the colours even better and we made good time to Atbara. Here we were again faced with no bridge but another, similar ferry. It was a long wait and it only took four ... read more
We all congratulated Ian on the start of his eighth decade. He said he was looking forward to it! So after card opening and breakfast we were off to Karima, without in fact visiting Dongola itself. This was opportune because, the road to Karima, some 175 miles, was reportedly all new tarmac. Not true! There was a section of 25 or so miles in the middle which was busily under construction, with huge earthmoving lorries and detours off the road which were just full of dust, dust and more dust. On arrival at Karima we went immediately to the pyramid site, with Jebel Barkal behind, which was lovely - totally deserted with no tourist infrastructure - where we were free to roam at will. We then entered town, refueled and shopped before setting off to cross ... read more
Wadi Halfa to Dongola - Day 45 Day 47
Published: November 9th 2007Africa » Sudan » North » Wadi Halfa28th - 30th October If you look at the map of Sudan the distance between Wadi Halfa and Dongola is only 285 miles. A simple journey, one would suppose, but it took us 2 and a half days! We had met some South African travelers in Luxor who described this road as the worst they had ever been on, in fact they labeled it “The Road from Hell”. We now know why! A general description of the road will suffice for the full length. At first the road wound round desert hills strewn with small rocks and the gravel surface was badly corrugated. This corrugation got worse and worse and the option was either to drive slowly (at 15 mph) or as fast as one safely could (at about 45 mph). Either choice was wrong; the ... read more
I have discovered in myself the skill of predicting the weather. At least when it will rain... All I have to do is wash my clothes and hang them on the line to dry. Shortly after the clothes are hung up, clouds suddenly appear, and WHAM! Microburst downpour on top of the clothes line. Awesome. This rain also only tends to appear when I am driving out of the camp for a patrol or to do errands. My clothes are flapping happilly on the clothes line like innocent little things that flap, and whammy! (Salute to AnchorMan) The next thing they know they are being blown off the line, covered in burrs and seed pods, and covered in sand and muck. Sweet. The other occasion that I have been able to predict the rainfall is when ... read more
Somedays, you just want to scream and throw something breakable... I awoke at 0645 this morning, excited and nervous beause today was the day that I was to lead a 3 man patrol to supervise the removal of over 100 rounds of unexploded ordnance. Just two days ago I had sat down face to face with the Lieutenant in charge of the engineering company, and he had whole-heartedly agreed to put a team together for Saturday and get the job done. For those of you not in the military, combat engineers in general do things like demolitions, constructions of camps and fortifications, and mine/ordnance removal. When the three UNMO's arrived at the HQ to meet with the Lieutenant an dhis team, I knew something wasn't going to work, beacuse the LT was dressed in a tracksuit ... read more
I've been back in Sudan for one week now, and the time really seems to be crawling along. Everyone tells me that once you come back from your first leave of the tour, the flow of time really slows down.... no kidding. I had a really great visit while I was home, but I think it makes it harder to come back, and jump right back into the mission. It has been a slow adjustment getting back into the flow of things, as there seems to be an overabundance of UNMO's, and a lack of jobs to do. This leads to a lot of idle "office time," and our small fleet of vehicles is now plauged by unservicabilities to boot. Who knew that you couldn't buy vehicles, beat the crap out of them in harsh condidtions, ... read more
Where do we start? It feels like months since the last update and since then we have experienced everything from temples to tombs and Al-Qaeda bomb threats to robbery! We pick up in Luxor, half way south along the Nile in Egypt. After a rather eventful journey reaching here we decided to spend 4 or 5 days taking in the sites and relaxing as best one can in 50 degree heat! Whilst in Luxor we saw the magnificent Luxor and Karnak temples, stretching for what seemed miles into the desert along the river. It is incredible to think that some of these temples have been standing tall for over 35 centuries... it really does put English Heritage in the shade. One very hot day involved an early 6am start to cross the river to the West ... read more





















