Blogs from East, Sudan, Africa
March 12th 2012
Travel within Sudan is never a straightforward endeavor. For one, the distances between points A and B are often vast, with little but desolate desert between. More of an issue, as a khawaja (foreigner), is that you must procure a travel permit – EACH time you travel away from Khartoum, specifying which part of the country you are going. And then there’s the limited tourist “infrastructure” once you get to point B – your, ahem, choice of hotels, for example, may be two tops. Which in turn means you often end up having to pay an exorbitant price for not so fantastic accommodations. There’s no real possibility of bargaining. Where else are you going to go, huh? So I have not done as much domestic travel in Sudan as I would have liked over the course ... read more
February 25th 2012
We had to get up at 6 a.m. to get the bus out to Kassala. Kassala is right beside the border with Eritrea and the bus took 8 hours to get there. It was pretty much desert the whole way until we got closer to Kassala, when we spotted lots of villages of huts made of mud and straw. The bus dropped us at a little souk about 5 minutes away by taxi from Kassala. We arrived and found the Riyad hotel, which we checked into. Walking around Kassala, we got a lot more stares than anywhere else and loads of people coming up to us to shout 'Khawaja' (foreigner). This wasn't done in a threatening way though and people were extremely friendly. Registering at the police station was another experience of comical Sudanese bureaucracy. We ... read more
December 12th 2010
So, after three weeks of travelling through Sudan, it's time to head to Ethiopia. I'm a couple of weeks behind on the blog, and I'll try to catch up when I can, but here's a breif glimpse into the last few weeks. Although Sudan neighbours Egypt, there's a massive contrast between the two countries. For a start, it's a whole lot more relaxed this side of the border - shouting Egyptians, in your face, often after your dollar, replaced by softly spoken Sudanese, with a smile here, and a handshake there. Sudan doesn't really do big sights, attractions, or photo opportunities either, at least not compared to north of the border. Instead, the best part for me has the reception we've received from the locals. Whereas Egypt will take your breathe away, Sudan will win your ... read more
March 14th 2009
5:45AM finds me at the Khartoum "land port", seeking out a bus company called Afras that I have been recommended. The price seems steep but I assume this is because it is better quality than anything I've taken so far. My permit for Kassala is supposed to be stamped by some official here, but they have clearly not yet come to work, and after a few discussions my permit remains unstamped but I am allowed onto the bus. It is immediately clear that this is not that great a vehicle, with legroom that means I can only sit with my legs out in the aisle. However the aircon is blasting away merrily and the two fleeces that I have brought on board as something to rest my head on end up being employed as insulation against ... read more
April 6th 2007
We left early in the morning and tried to cross the border on the 6th.. Previously, crossing the border usually will have to take 2 days.. 1 day's drive from khartoum to gadaref.. and another day's drive from gadaref to gallabat (sudan's border town), cross into Metema (ethiopian side) and then drive to Gonder.. The road from Gadaref to Gallabat is now tarred.. so that makes travelling much easier.. The journey to the border was still hot.. but as we near the border, we start to see some trees.. then taller trees.. and the architecture of the building changed from the Sudanese square buildings to the more Ethiopian round huts.. we arrived at Gallabat at 4pm.. but the customs office for vehicle is closed.. the officer supposed was at home.. so they have to call ... read more
